dannyboy

Guild,It sounds like clutch grab could be caused by splines on the input shaft "catching" on the clutch plate on re-engagement due to poor lubrication on splined shaft due to clutch dust,rust,metal burr,etc made crawling in first gear very on/off engagement. But it could also be the rivets starting to bite the flywheel surface too

Been driving in Canadian weather for past month and half which is crazy weather out here. Tyres are the difference between a car moving and braking safely or the Muppet wheel spinning on the side of the road just because he/she thought it was OK to leave their summer tyres on because they're allowed to! Over here most vehicles are automatic and RWD but they seem to handle very poor road conditions very well. And Canadians aren't renowned for they're brilliant driving. To me its down to the tyres and how you learn to adapt to poor conditions

Mines not heavy at all and was only new last year when I done the engine conversion but just before I left for Canada in July it gave it the beans on a flat road in third gear and the revs just bounced off the limiter instantly. It was like it wasnt in gear but the car was in gear,so changed the gear and it drove fine,very strange. The biting point is quite low,about 2 inch from the floor.

Silly question,is there any way to check for wear without removing the box? It is a Pita to remove the gearbox just to find the clutch is fine! I didn't think its possible unless someone has a neat trick?

Sounds like they're good then. I'll start shopping then,ready to start new project soon. Cheers lads

Cool,cheers man. Their stuff looks good a reasonable price too. I'm looking at the 1.8t 20v stroker kit that brings it to 2 litre on 9.5 compression using tfsi crank. All for 2000 dollars isn't bad

As title says,has anybody here used they're kits or any parts from them? Reason I'm asking is that I can buy parts and bring them home to Europe with me and won't cost fortune in import tax and postage. But only if the stuff is good? Any thoughts?

Two more weeks and I'm back in Europe,yeh! Can't wait to fire my baby up after five and half months of sitting.lucky my winter tyres are already on ready to take on the snow and warmer weather

I've a 2.5 inch exhaust on my 1.8t which is approaching the 300 bhp mark and it flows great so anything over 2.75 inch is way overkill unless your running r32 turbo or similar. Bigger exhausts kill torque and flow especially mid-range on a NA engine as stated above. Leave the 3 inch exhausts to fiesta and corsa boys who don't have a clue about proper engine tuning

Sounds way too cheap for a complete drive shaft. VW wanted 230 euro for two cv joint kits,excluding driveshafts. Be weary.

You need to adjust your linkage if your getting "gear-grab" when engaging 1st and 2nd which is the left to right linkage. You'll need to find the sweet spot between reverse and 1st. As said above,oil change will make difference between smooth changes and fighting with the gear stick

The cylinder gases could be getting into the cooling system and head gasket can be acting as a one way valve since pressures are higher. Darking could be gases diluting coolant. You can get a CO2 indicator kit that you put it in a small bottle with a sample of the coolant with a fluid that turns colour if CO2 is present.best way to find out if its the head. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Engine-Coolant-Tester-Kit-CO2-Leakage-New-/250730247077 Coolant pump belt slipping? Or thermostat sticking?

Try this fellow, :-) http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?58538-The-MK3-Diesel-Gearbox-Thread&highlight=mk3+diesel+gearbox

Could be injector tick, that usually increases with engine revs. My 1.8t injectors are the loudest part of the engine believe it or not, until I floor it on boost. Disturb any gaskets lately?

id check the usually suspects first, crank postion sensor,ht leads,coil pack,change fuel filter,etc (easiest first and cheapest) 2.0 16v has one undercar pump,filter is beside it. But sounds more like a coil/ht problem rather than fuel especially as its at high rpms in lower gears.check for loose electrical connectors too!

could be worse,you could have ended up like my old rado.

I love the ring but not going back again.twice there is enough for me,been there,done that,got the sticker.... I was thinking along the same lines as fishwick,how can a company that owns a road go bust? its a toll-road that nearly always gets used.insurance of prangers pays for damage.Costs over 22 euro a lap so wheres the money gone?

After only one year,my organic clutch has now bit the dust as torque is now causing clutch to slip.Lucky the slave cylinder seals are still intact but i fear that 300 ft/lb is taking a toll on what was a brand new clutch year ago. My question is does anyone know of a near OEM or close to clutch that will reliabliy take over 300 ft/lbs without effecting engagment pressure too much? i have big thighs but i still dont fancy having a performance clutch that needs 10 ton of pressure to disengage!!! I believe the one on there was a vr6 one(dont actually know if it was organic as guy i bought engine from has lied about loads) but its simply not upto the job. I dont do standing start burnoffs,i have some respect for it and the clutch.if i do accelerate hard the car is always rolling at speed so its just not upto the torque requirements. If you know any part numbers or a proper clutch let me know guys... Thanks

im running on my winter tyres at the moment as im going back to canada and wont be back til christmas so theyll be on ready for winter went i get back. Only two things i noticed was compond is softer under breaking car seems to wobble a bit and wears quicker and wet weather breaking is not as good. It could be the fact that theyre cheap remoulds but at £75 a corner isnt exactly cheap.But german laws are getting very tight and winter tyres are law now.

68mm pulley with matching chip is the most common upgrade.get the correct one.if you get a rubbish one your car will run like crap,use too much fuel and horrible to drive. Dont even know the one i had,but it ran extremely well and no increase in fuel compusmion

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-piston-ring-pliers-suitable-piston-rings-50-100mm-2-3-15-16-/350578628704?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D120703530121%26ps%3D54 Try these mate,theyre the correct tool and dont cost much

Well good news and bad news this weekend. I can confirm that I got the rev counter working on older mechanical cable speedos u have to cut the diode behind the speedo. However this puts the vss out of commission and spoiler will not work. Also if u cut this doide out the gu guages work funny when using dash illum

143 K is roughly the time these engines start to loosen up. My old gti had 256k and it still ran smoothly. Could u just find out why it failed? May not be the engine,might b the injection system or ignition system.how far was the emissions off?

'I thought it sounded like we ran over someone few mile back there!'

Ive just done a 759 km drive from germany this morning on one 55 litre tank,but a third of it was driving at 100 mph. So prob bit better if I drive at normal 120 km limit all d way. So reasonable guess would be same as dragon green about 500 miles. I only fill my tank with v-power 100 or ultimate 102.