spoier

its actually 0.024 - 0.028 :) The gap is ususually set at the smallest end of the range to account for widening as the electrodes wear. I check my plugs every copule of months so its no big deal I'm going to experiment with 0.030 - 0.035 gaps when the car's back on the road, as well as indexing the plugs so the open part of the electrode faces the incoming charge, its a old and cheap tuning trick to gain a couple horses. But for indexing you need an assortment of usually 6-7 plugs for a 4 cyl. Skye

There is no way around it - if you lower the car the suspenstion travel will be reduced so you must use stiffer springs and shocks to keep the car off the bump stops. That said, some of the rates in the lowering/coilover kits are quite a lot harder than they need to be (road race spec). You may want to try a set of adjustables like the Bilstein PSS-9's on full soft and only 25-30mm drop Skye

Nah you'd need something like Fontographer I think

Hmm maybe I'll try this tomorrow, since the airbox is out anyway and the weather should be nice :D Skye

Yes, deleting the carbon canister and then boxing in the area around the "hole" where it was, and sticking a cone filter in that area is a popular and effective mod DONT DO THIS. Without the box it will suck hot air from the engine bay and produce LESS horsepower than the stock airbox Skye

Finally got a whole day to work on the Corrado again (its been on jack stands for about 2 weeks now). Got a ton of stuff done. Replaced the fuel filter and the old hose on both ends of the filter, and put on proper EFI hose clamps to replace the mix of OEM and rad clamps the PO used. Also replaced the bailing wire holding up the stock muffler "suitcase" which has been like that since it fell off on vacation a couple months ago. Its suprising how much louder the car is without the rubber hangers damping the exhaust. These are the uprated chain-filled hangers so hopefully they will last. Also started building the engine bay back up... nice to start putting things back together again!!! Just waiting on a few things to arrive now, my Mocal oil cooler, sandwich plate with t-stat and reusable AN-10 hose fittings (making my own hoses), a huge assortment of Grade 8 hex cap sockets to replace the pieces of s**t VW used (several of them stripped off the hex socket, of course, grr) and... hmmm I guess that's all! Pretty sure I'll have it back on the road next weekend. Pics of new water pump and timing belt/tensioner: Pics of my rebuilt Stage III charger ready to drop in. One of the displacer scrolls needed a little welding but it was otherwise in OK shape (apex strips had fallen off, bearings were leaking, etc - but it was rebuildable thank goodness) Skye

I use NGK BPR6ES in my Corrado G60 - they are about $4 each. You can replace the set 4 times for cost of 1 set of W6DPO's If you can't tell, I'm not a big fan of platinum plugs. The ONLY benefit they give is you can forget to change them for a loooong time (the average car owner doesn't understand the concept of replacing "maintenance" items every 2-3 years). And I never trust some $1/day worker overseas to pre-gap correctly, so I always check regardless before installing. Takes 2 seconds. Edit: PS: gap is 0.025" Skye

Any update on the Corrado font? Thanks!

Hmm well I dont see any predrilled holes on the slam panel in that area, but now that I have all the AC junk removed, there is plenty of room in front of the radiator to zip tie the cooler to that area - more air flow, more bettah :D Skye

Well the Integra and the Corrado are both in the same SCCA class G stock so they must be fairly closely matched. Which one is faster, very hard to tell it would probably depend on the driver quite a bit. Skye

I think you might have a slight boost leak in there somewhere :D Skye

Heard very mixed reviews on the EBC greens

Saab 9000 IC from a junkyard is big and good and metal, nearly as good as the Cossie 2wd IC if that's any indication. Skye

I'm using Pagid pads and they stop really fast but they are very dusty. I've heard really good things about the Porterfield R4-S pads I'm going to try those next Skye

I've heard so-so things about the FK's ... but the Bilstein + H&R combo is always good. I'm probably getting a Sachs coilover set soon, I'll see how that goes. Price is too good to refuse. With suspension you always have to pay $$$ for quality but you can pay $$$ and not get quality. But not the other way around As far as the question of whether or not they are "good", well it always depends what you plan on doing with your car. Skye

Good luck with it friend, sheared bolts are the most awful thing to deal with in all of car world IMO. Invest in some really good penetrant (PB Blaster rules) and use it when taking stuff apart to prevent more heartache in the future Skye

Makes sense thanks a lot!! A pic would be very helpful though. Skye

This is the only acceptable way to own a CRX Skye

I've come over to the dark side

Was bored so did some animated gif modifications :D She just keeps going... and going... and going...

Very eloquent, John :D Got any pics of that install? I'm curious what kind of mounting bracket was fabbed I'm leaning towards zip-tying it to the front of the rad though, since I'd like to remove the whole AC system. Which means I have to remove bumper and grille and...? Skye

Oh I'm not putting rally bits on the Corrado... this is the street/touring car. I'll leave the rally bits for the Sierra :D Skye

Doing a custom oil cooler install job but where to mount the bloody thing?? I know some people remove the AC compressor and mount their oil cooler there under the G60, and some zip tie them to the radiator... I don't really like the first solution (its still in the hot engine bay), what are some other mounting locations I could use? Has anyone used a 13x3 or 13x4 cooler mounted upside down under the radiator support bracket? Might be a little dicey with speed bumps. Looking for easy places to mount wihtout a lot of fab work It's pissing down rain and I don't have a garage to work in. Can't delete the carbon canister and put it in there because I need to import the car into Canada in a couple years and it gets a hardcore inspection Skye

I disagree, I think the stock oil cooler is a total piece of crap :) But that's just me, and I'm used to oversized rally parts I would never fit an oil cooler without a thermostat in the sandwich plate adapter, I didn't think the stock unit had a stat at all, in which case I'm not sure why you think it would be better in regards to time to normal operating temp. Skye

Lader's in a box next to my desk :D Coolant hoses are being replaced with Jetta/Fox hoses because I'm getting rid of the stock oil/water heat exchanger (I can't bring myself to call it a "cooler") 026 121 053G and 068 121 063M Will clean the oil lines thanks Got the non-AC pulley already off vortex hope it fits, and the different belts I'm getting a Stage III job (aggressive port & polish) and maybe a 70mm pulley hehe Skye