Grrrrallye

thanks. with advice from the forum and stealth, I went with the schimel 256 I think. it's not going to be a race car so wanted a good all rounder. what did you have to cut out of the bonnet? Now I'm worried!

What do people think? Also has anyone else had an exhaust manifold from the states before with the additional stabbing as shown above? If so, what did you use to block it? does anyone know the thread size by any chance?

Been a while since I posted an update since the body shop so thought I should put some words and pics up. The original thread is here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=88484 Once back from the body shop, first up was engine mounts: Cams were added: Started to add the inlet manifold back in: and test fit the exhaust manifold: Better pic of the inlet section Wrapping the exhaust manifold was an utter pig, but happy with the outcome: and re fitted New Schrick inlet manifold fitted: Also managed to make up a bracket and modify the old heat shield to add an extra layer of heat protection: Just realized that I have missed off a section of the trim from the top of the head under the manifold to route the HT leads through so Ill have to sort that tomorrow. Looking at what I have though, it all appear to sit a little high, so wondering if the bonnet will shut, anyone else seen or thought this?

As far as I can make out, VWMS sold the design to Schrick who I turn sold them branded in several ways, Schrick, HGP, Oettinger and as blanks Did see a write up somewhere but no idea where that was

The other half got me a Tissot PR516 for Christmas as I had been going on about it since I got her a Tissot last Christmas http://www.tissot.ch/products/tissot-heritage-pr-516-automatic/T0714301104100.html Loving it

I have an unbranded Schrick inlet manifold and a Transporter wing vent that was a lot lot harder to get hold of than i thought it would be

And the cams Tonight's mission, rear bumper on, new clutch on and maybe gear box

Well time for an update... following Christmas and the house doing its very best to bankrupt me (exploding boiler a week before Christmas followed by mice eating the water pipes whist they were cold for a week) I have finally made it back down the unit to make a little progress! Tail gate is on and loom into that, new cams in, timing rebuilt, engine mounts in (3 attempts and 2 companies to get 3 mounts!!) so just a few quick picks. Would people be so kind as to look at the mounts and see if they think they are correct? the RH rear has a lot of movement for my liking - 1st picture below:

I'm currently looking at making a set of wing mirrors with the side repeaters built in. my intention is to cut a slit on the mirror and mount an led strip behind them gel coat the slit closed and polish back. as for the front, you could use the side light and replace the lamp with a white amber led with switchback so the one lamo does both. I will be doing this with my angel eyes when the house stops trying to bankrupt me?

As it says really, I have ordered a set of mounts from Awesome and they have turned up but now I have questions. The front mount on the VR has a rubber bushing/mount under the front cross member (looks a lot like a strut top mount). The VT front mount fits into the top side of the cross member but the stud off the bottom is not long enough to pass through the lower rubber mount. Is this correct? do I not use the lower rubber or have I been sent the wrong mount? With regards to the rear mounts, does any one know what numbers I should have? I have one that matches, The other however is a big lump of a thing with the securing bolts set at 30-45 degrees off of horizontal and a shaped section on the top with 3 mounting holes. Any answers would be appreciated so I can get back on the phone to Awesome to get this sorted. Thanks

This sounds like good advice to me. Was concerned about making everything overly harsh. I think i will give this setup a try and get things moving some more!! Thanks

Hi guys, As the engine is out, I'm looking at replacing the mounts. I have looked at the stock mounts and also the Vibratech stuff and my question is: Are they worth the extra? as its a lot extra. Im looking to build a car thats nice for cruising and road trips so after comfort, its not a racer, but looking to be around 220hp when done Any advice? Thanks

OK so now I have options and need to think about what to go for!!

Has anyone got a cover for there Corrado? Having spent a shed load on the body work of the C, I need to protect it. The car will be indoors in the dry, but one of the other guys in the unit is special (as in needs) so I need some physical protection. Any idea where I can get one and how much roughly? Thanks

Very very smooth. Can't wait for the re-build The colour is Mystic Blue as that was the original

Back from paint today. Bumper update!! http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah160/Grrrrallye/Dover-20141007-00095_zps4b1ab369.jpg All work carried out here: https://www.facebook.com/beautifulbodies.biz

Brilliant thanks guys

I have recently had one supplied from Jetex (High flow). I have not fitted it yet so cant tell you about it, but, that said, they did have my CAT to size it up against so they know the size.

I have the car in the body shop. The guys have it all primed except the boot lid as they cant lift/remove the spoiler. As the motor works, but is not currently powered, does any one know what wires I need to apply power (assuming 12V) in order to drive the motor up so it can be removed. Failing that I believe there is a manual handle in the boot panel, does anyone have a picture / description I can pass onto the body shop Thanks

To separate the metal work from the interior and the up stand you need a pry bar with at least a 45Deg set in it. What you need to do is look at the bayonet fitting and make sure you line it up with the cut outs in the base section then use the pry bar to compress the spring and release. It needs a bit of brute force and a bit of a wiggle, but it will go. Thats the easy bit Hard part is putting it back together. You need to hold the whole unit WELL in a vice, you then need to line up the bayonet and then compress with a G clamp. The trick here is to use one that allows you to rotate it slightly, so the type with the pivoting foot. Once the bayonet presses through, you need to give a quick sharp twist to lock it in. In short, its a **** of a job

Brilliant, just what I needed to know. The car is intended as a weekend toy, with a view to cruising and touring so I don't want it too hard. Sounds like the mounts are the way to go though. Is there a list of what bushes from the 32/TT match that anyone is aware of?

Whilst I have the car in bits, the engine is coming out so I started to look at other exciting things I can do and thought I would get peoples opinions on bushes and mounts. Should I just replace the stock mounts or are uprated mounts worth the cash? Polybush kits look like a sound investment, but as I'm thinking air ride, I understand I wont be able to run the ARB half the kit will be redundant, is it worth the investment? will i still feel the benefits? Just looking to see if anyone has any experience with either of these??

Hello mate, Ill take a windscreen trim off your hands. PM me your payment info when you get 5 Alex

Thanks, The mad max look is cool, think the next project might have to be the full mad max image maybe on a mk4? The arches needed a bit of repair at the front, the back end or the rear arches were shot and needed rebuilding so that has all been done whilst being widened. The widening is only above the swage line on the sides then back to stock lines similar to the way its done on an M3 so i hope it makes it more aggressive but less in your face about it. I dont want silly huge wheels, no bigger than 17s but just want some extra clearance for running on air

This next set might split opinions a little but here we go: 4th arch OK... here we go... its a wing vent!!