GazzaG60

the uk is behind to an extent. cost as andi said is a factor as is the conservativeness of the brits in tuning. many a mapped car has a very conservative tune to basically prevent popping of the engine(if possible) The yanks go bigger, better, cheaper and are willing to break things more. as far as engineering goes we are streets ahead. i remember a guy telling me about british aerospace. a top yank company sent to them what was claimed to be the smallest drill bit in the world. the brits sent it back with a hole straight through the middle

jket is only fine ,never good. thats the problem

is it not better to use digi 1 and a proper fuel rail?

id say thats not the most important point. id look at transmission, shafts cv's etc. thats where the load goes. slosh is slosh but this happens anyway. if yoy are cornering at speed and grip still, like most of us do, theres slosh. slicks on our cars may be best left for the qartermile where we need them most. to fix slosh etc get baffles and a windage tray from a tdi.

yes id be interested, may want 2.

thats not proper power then. at the end of the day we got a fWD road car. thats one hell of a beast and im with phat on some points here. mega bhp through the front in the wet wont work anyway. in road form the corrado aint that fast anyway in any standard guise so major props to the owner/creator for trying to go from the norm. he could have built a fast honda for less hassle. bling has its place, but so does speed and fast cars bring more cred.

Thats a big turbo, maybe a GT40r or a s cased t3/t4 it doesn't look to4r id go GT40 maybe due to the 3 inch vband housing, wheely bar was a honda invention of many moons ago to get the civics into the 8's and 9's. it puts pressure on the floor behind to keep the front down

agreed again. if your doing any job do a proper one. im gonna go for a cnc head from cnc heads machined for FI

poped the crank out of mine last week ready for the overbore. i already done about half of what you said for my turbo motor. its 5 caps. 2 bolts on each (non stretch) with retainers on the centre cap.

actuall all bearings are half shells. but the end caps of the block need removing for proper efficient crank removal, thats engine out

ive got defi clocks and EGT for my new project. hlf agree with henny in that you dont need egt for much less than a custom turbo job. egt handy for taming the timing on a map to an extent.

got any pics of the piston? if fuel is ok which id expect the red tops are not at that level then id pull a few degrees timing and push that extra boost. start by pulling 2 degrees for every PSI if you have blown before. add a degree if its ok. general rule -1 degree for every psi

there are a few 83mm pistons you csan use. requires a 0.5mm overbore. ive got JE at 9:1

after a journey do a whell heat test. find one hotter than the others. Is chewck all the wiring on your lambda circuit. the sensors are tougher than the wiring especially after 13 yrs or so next to the exhaust. make sure the earths are good. i found that the standard setup is pretty good at masking issues. as soon as you up the boost and re-chip the problems come out. i found many an issue with my car after the rechip. my SNS tuned red top stup on a 65mm returns aruond 25-28mpg or about 12 when on boost proper.

RS2=porsche RS4=cosworth

they are good but NOT 400hp even with a remap. they have issues with high boost on the small k03's. they remap to around 350hp i believe. torque is great from the off and is awesome with a remap.

get some ARP ones. can re-use um then-if you can get 1h bolts

not a mk 2 but a mk1. ive had 2. a 84 storm and a 88 scala. engine is a DX from memory in the gtx,gti and scala i models. year change for a scala was 88 when the injection was introduced. i put the storm engine in the scala along with its wiring loom, fuel supply, trim and other fancy bits. the storm was a wreck and had holes in the rear arches. carb engine is a EX i think. dont get a carb one. they are poor in comparison. i think my scala with the better engine would keep with my 65mm pullied G60 till around 80 it was quicker than my c around the twisties between 50 and 80 too. i loved it to round off it got lifted clean off the floor outside my house and was never seen again.

id say itll depend on the may. it known that some sns chips are tuned static on 30# injectors which can cause rich conditions at certain points. if danny and sam are happy on the 42# id take them. save ever taking the G60 static

yeh . i chopped a tad of my bumper support away to get as much room as possible. mine which was i think 600mm*160mm*50mm fitted so the endtank outlets went around the outside of the rad with around 2-3 inches each side. remember if fitting a bigger cooler like the golf one that the radiator in the golf G60 is much bigger than the Corrado one. id say to compensate for the lack of airflow due to ic size over the crap corrado one.

the w211 IC is basically the same size as my current G60 cooler. it fits with only a little trimming. piping-wise similar to what made. i used a factory u bend, couple of samcos and the G60 piping chopped up along with a 96 impreza airbox elbow for under the charger. my next cooler is similar length but taller and 3 inches thick. not sure if it will fit yet

put a wideband up it. it wont blow up at idle so you need to see the fueling at higher rev/load pints too.

guys wayne is based in rochdale near me but i heard bad things about his current circumstances.

"And besides, it's the torque that breaks traction and chucks you in your seat anyway. People say 200hp limit, but that's not a problem to a Civic Type R with only 140 pounds of torque, which is about 10 more than an 8V MK3 GTI " my point exactly kev. a lower torque, high rever will keep traction better than our 8v type of setup and when you bump up the torque to our standards with a turbo or supercharger that larger powerband makes for a faster, more tractable car.

update 24 jan 06 new pics to be added on new post as currewnt one is full update 12 jan 06 ****cant upload all pics-await supermods**** This week i have been waiing for my ARP conrod bolts to arrive. i already had a set but suddenly got the gitters on the standard parts so have splashed out on higher spec bolts. im now gagging to get it together so any further thoughts of lightening and balancing the bottom end are out of the window for now. here are a few images of the bores, the newly painted block and the parts going in. ill add apicture of the old crank mains so that you can see what they may look like in your engine. the milage was unknown on this lump but you could spin the crank with your little finger when on the engine stand with the v.v.v.v heavy flywheel off. anyway more pics added. cant say much more at the moment. a quick one of my mate Andrews engine in his subaru for thoses scooby fans out there. will shove a group picture up when they produce less offensive signs to the camera ------------------------------------------------ update 5 jan 06 quick test post update thingy update with a few pictures namely turbo, wastegate and injector rail and squirters ------------------------------------------------- After a few posts in other topics here is my first post about my car. main reson i havent done anything before is that i couldn't be arsed. Im gonig to add some pictures of the current setup and of the engine in the build process and some of the other components i have chosen. most of my post will be about the engine as thats what intersts me most. i will modify the first post for most of the stuff but may add a few others also at other times. Before i start id like to say a big thanks to my 2 good friends Andy and Anthony the most infuential people behind Subaru specialists Jap-innovations. their experience with high powered turbo cars is useful as is the stockpile of parts and contacts they have. my engine is on a stand next to 2 600hp 2.3l impeza engines so its in good company. the guys have helped me with removing old engines from cars to having a word with a machine shop. Their next big help will be fitting it so thanks in advance. need any bits for a subaru or an engine build or somthing give me a shout, ill pass on details as Jap-innovations has closed. big shout over for now. Currently i am runnning a G60 corrado on a J plate. i run a full ss system no cat, 65mm pulley stg 4 charger, golf u-bend, fmic red tops etc. the car has been reliable for the past 60k i have had it with a total of 138k so far. on my new project im gonna use the following. 9a block bored to 83.020 approx kr head p&p forged piston 9:1 (Wiseco) precison SC-61 turbo external wastegate. (tial 38mm) Home made full 3" system. 550cc injectors megasquirt n spark extra Home made short runner intake (half built) Hoping for 300-400hp i got a host of other goodies too but ill sort some pictures and hosting out this weekend and will progress from there. BLOCK BORE AND CHANGES The block, a 9a has to be bored to fit the new pistons. The bore size standard is 82.52 ish with the piston being 82.49 this needs to be upped roughly half a mm. as the new piston is 83mm and needs slightly more clearance the pistons were sent to the machine shop and measured. apparently pistons are still slightly different in size and better measured for a perfect fit. this is being done. the news on my engine is that there is a score on a bore so itll need sleeving. the crank is ok but some scratching so its been sent in to be polished or ground. the full assembly will be balanced when its complete. An alloy flywheel will be fitted after to complete the lightening. i will be using the standard belt setup and oil pump so all usual 9a parts will be used. i may be using a subaru alternator as its the same style fitting as our 16v but the pulley is different. a quick mod.. The sump and windage tray were provided by Gavin (H100 VW) something built by himself and never used. this component im told is almost key to a good 16vt with good power. Its down to breathing. The 16v standard breather setup is quite poor. unlike the G60 it breaths from the block. with the higher pressures on a turbo engine the oil is forced out of the block under pressure as the engine cannot release the pressure. im told a catch can at 0.5l wil be filled on 1 quartermile run if i dont address this issue. What im gonna do is fit the breather/filler cap from a new beetle to enable the head to breathe as well as the block. i may also abapt the dizzy end of the rocker cover to fit a second one. everything in the block apart from rods and crank will be new. full new seals, pistons. bearings etc. so far its cost me around 450 to build this block only. im not putting rods in as im planning a second block using proper rods and the ability to hit around 8500rpm Cylinder head and cams The cylinder head im currently looking to run is from a KR. it is in standard form at present but i plan on sending it to CNCheads for a full race spec FI port with hand finishing. this should get the flow of each port within 1% of each other. im gonna start with kr cams. there are a few opinions on 16v heads some say kr others say 9a and a few say ABF. the general i could get was that a kr flowed better on the inlet but had less material to take away cam wise the kr is a better option but i may step up to some proper cams once i have the overlap issues worked out. in all i dont think at this point i need to scrutinise my cam/head choice as this can be somewhere to work on after. Manifolds there are 2 main types of exhaust manifold available. tubular and cast log type. cast log is the design used by TT originally when they did the conversion and is of similar type to the standard manifold. its a cheap strong way to get the turbo to fit. some fit better than others. they will make good power but dont flow as good as a tubular manifold which as per description is a tube shape. some are equal length others not. equal length helps spool time and top end flow. tubular can be more suseptable to cracking than other types and will probably need wrapping to get the most from it. wrap is used to help the transfer of heat by holding it in the exhaust. it sounds strange that we hold heat in to get rid of it but thats what we do. heat causes propulsion meaning the gases leave the system quicker and also less heat soak to other components in the engine bay. The inlet manifold is shown below in its early stages of production. what i have done is take a 50mm inlet and hack it up. weld on some bits of subaru manifolds which have a almost identical internal bore and get it ready for fitting a plenum. im still undecided as to whether or not to fit velocity stacks. here are a few pics of the progress im having with it. i await some 4 inch ally tube to create the plenum. lovely int it. next update sooner than the last one :roll: Edit: Huuuuuuge pics thumbnailed for people on smaller screens ;) - dinkus Thanks mate. more pics being added.