GazzaG60

i run a volkspeed cup one. great stuff

i has similar with my idle valve or the circuit around it. in the end i removed it to test get a wheel bolt and remove the isv and put that in its place. clamp it up a tad and try to start. only downside is a low cold start idle for around 2 minutes

i look for 14.5 and 11.5 on boost for jap. Jap cars need more fuel cos they are made out of shit, especially ones runnig uber big turbos(T04R). that make power at the redline. place the probe near the original o2 sensor not too close to the heat source though. The AUX box or inductive pickup is worth using too. a AF over revs graph helps finetune individual cells and the fuel/TPS increases needed. when the guys test other cars they use a exhaust clamp to test/tweak customers cars after boost increases etc.

i went on friday for the whole weekend. was a tad dissapointed but i think many expectations over-ride reality. the first inters is always your best i reckon and it takes some living up to. kinda like a visit to glastonbury festival. campsite have a nerve trying to extract 15 quid a man for the weekend. we only paid for 1 person of the 3 of us so it wasn't to bad but i reckon id use the other campsite up the road next time or just a field somewhere. if i go again.

my scirrocco got lifted stright off the floor last yr. only a couple of 1 foot skidmarks remained. it has no fuel no brakes and seized rear drums hence the skids. if they want it they will get it. unlucky mate. sorry to hear it

never greased mine as Gav says. it runs a 65mm for lots of miles on boost. so fsar the Glader has been a pretty tough cookie with regualr oil changes.

make sure the live for the heat doesn't touch the signal to the ecu

wiring is 4 wiresfrom harness to plug. purple - signal brown(i think)- earth 2 others heat for probe. they leave the harness at the plug and change colour to black-signal brown - earth (goes to engine mount bracket) white(2) - heat

does sound like timing. if not ask John at BBM to point you in the right direction

anybody got a 9A for sale?

so whats the best option. ported 9A with KR cams?

well if the R32 is coming the corrado will be gone by then so it may be a good time. Just to put you all in the picture im looking at a 2-4 week timeframe.

supercharged - wheel sale depends on car going or not. Majik - clock panel is the vw one that you cant get now. clocks are Air/fuel and oil temp alom - car has around 133k miles on it 11 months MOT 4 months tax. full history up to when i bought it at around 80k

Hi all. well it may be time to part company with my G60. Ive been looking about and thought about putting the word up first before i do anything. Ive got the option to sell the car complete or return it to near standard for a trade-in. i dont want to go to the bother of stripping it if i can sell the full car for around 3k, however i will if necessary as trade-in is around 2k-2200. for those who are interested 92 J aqua blue G60 full grey leather. red tops, 65mm 3.5bar reg front mount IC fk koni coilovers. full stainless exhaust. rebuilt charger about 6 months ago. vw gauge panel with AF and oil 52 mm boost gauge. BBS rc 17" wheels-summer use only no curb marks. braided lines powerflex bushes, new arms and ball joints. Volkspeed front engine mount. i will sell the car for 3k. the only pics i have are from VWNW which should be on the forum. the car has some rust arounf the side repeaters on the wings but nothing massive. i will sell seperately fk koni coilovers -approx 2 months old. 400 BBS RC wheels-like brand new with yoko A539 - 500 clocks and panel - 100 mods- sorry if this is in wrong section but im not sure if the sale is to take place-its all on whether or not the skyline GT-r is to my liking.

i run supersports for about 3 yrs. bounce for 3 months and were ok for around 12 then went more iffy until there was no oil left in um. im on fk koni now. got um for 590 all in from venom

ive had this problem. mine needs a new lock but from the inside take the panel off and have a look at the locking plunger and see whats what. after that its bot lock time

merc eatons fit a G60. there are kits to mount that charger. mmini one is far too small to do anything. those charger suck anyway. far to much heat generation with boost. go lysholm or turbo or stick with the lader.

check engine mounts for movement. if theres some check the harness wires on the o2 probe. proper wiring here is essential to proper running of the engine. if its looking poor id replace the probe too. AF gauge does wonders for indicating potential issues with the lambda system.

ive had this happen a few times. it is usually when the cables are getting old. since ive changed both cables they have been fine.

is it not to do with if its a AC car pulley or not?

ive been running the 3.5bar, reds and sns for some time now. i have tested a few variants from bilal over the last couple of years and they have got better each time. im still on the 3.5 bar version. nolag 3 if my memory serves.

mine reads 12 all the time at the moment but i bet my bottom dollar that it reads different if i disconnect the battery and reconnect. SNS chips rule. not much more to say on that. mine manages to snap the engine mount and the top bolt yesterday anyway.

the MFA works from a predeturmined calculation. any changes to fueling/injector size wont be reflected by the MFA. dont trust it. what you have now is more timing more boost =more fuel

as in? on the probe side of the harness there is 3 wires coming out back to the probe in the pipe. there were 4 originially the one missing is the snapped earth. 4 wires come out engine side on the loom. IIRC the far right wire is the signal for the probe, the 2 white (probe side) are for the heating system in the probe, brown is earth

Hi The earth bolts from the harness to the top of the engine mount. This earth is important. the o2 operation wont work if its not connected/snapped. these tend to snap when the engine mounts are on their way out. do a wobble test on the other wires at the plug and check they are ok. these tend to get brittle and break.