GazzaG60

have you hade you head n block modded to take them there bolts mate?

depends on the pulley size. i think the recommended is 40k for a standard pulley with less for a smaller one. id expect a 68mm is 25-35k but hopefully pitstop will confirm. i cant really comment as mine is overdue runnning a 65mm- :oops:

yep if you can provide enough airflow with a standard pulley thats great. by that do you mean a 68mm toothed? with the 65mm i tend not to go over 6000 and most of the time find im changing at around 5500. it doesn't make power over that so no point. my internals are standard though so i can expect much more. fetch it to the next meet if you get it built in time. lets have a butchers

G60s tend to be limited in the hp department as they dont rev too high especially with a small pulley. as hp is a calculation from revs and torque it doesnt show too favourably. the importance of torque coes out when you go up against a car of similar hp maybe a few more that a G60 but the torque curve aint a patch on the G. its about whats under the curve. take on a 200hp honda with a 170hp G60 and see whats what

torques the name of the game

i did mine a few weeks ago for the MOT the lines are not available from VW. they make them when they need them for a job. i had to replace the rubber hoses and the 2 rear brake lines to the wheels (basically all of the back section. you need the pipe flaring bit that you put in the vice to make the hoses. the fittings are more or less standard for all cars theres 2 or 3 sizes. i did a full set of braided hises at the same time. the most time consuming bit is getting the old ones apart and bleeding up. you need i think 10,11 and 13 and 14mm brake spanners. some are in a bitch of a place to get to too.try to tighten slightly to brake the seal before trying to crack them open or they easily round. shape the new line around the old one once its off. make up a straight line of 760mm for both sides. i did the manual pump for the brakes. i had no pedal feel for a day or 2 but now its better tha it used to be. i also bought a brake bleeder from automotiveproducts in the US the uk kits are poo and you dont need lots of pressure around 10psi. i am yet to try the powerbleeder as my brakes are good but i will have a go and see if i get any improvements.

i made mine from some sheet steel. it goes from front to back totally separating the engine from the "air zone" it touches the bonnet to to create the best seal i could in a couple of hours.

more air more fuel more power is the general standard VR is the most reliable a vr will get. turbo vr would be my choice if any. look on 8vturbo.com for bits. a turbo vr will need management changes injector changes, maybe 6 red tops transmission changes brakes as 350-400hp has gotta be minimum ballpark for a decent job a supercharger is always gonna have more response as its driven by the engine speed rather than the engines output. which one is faster is another thing alltogether.

V-werks for V-Tecs? honda b-series turbo conversion here we come :D

id have a vr firts n second in a G60 box. they are poor when tuned aint they. a 6th would be ideal too so the charger aint spinning too fast at 80

throttle cable needs changing. tis sticking a bit by the sounds of it.

no carb corrados so no on that one. get a airfilter no probs k&n panel for the airbox basically on a valve do the cam mod that theres post about, get a 50mm inlet if it doen't have one and a exhaust. thatll be stage 1 for probly 10-15% more grunt

i got volkspeed front. v good.

G60DAN-if its a vag mk1part it doesn't fit properly. it hits the res box or the u bend doesn't matter which one you have. also its a 100 deg thermostat. could be used for a turbo job though.

from what i can gather the saab turbo is pretty small (t3). itll boost early but not hold out. the bigger turbos obviously bring lag. it depends on what you want out of it. the saab turbo would probly give you similar to what kev got out of his. suppose not a bad starter turbo. its just if you wanna go bigger there can be other costs like flanges, downpipes thatll have to be replaced again, maybe different piping too for oil/water feeds and air.

If it lasts that long!! :D Gavin hey i drive miss daisy remember :lol:

get something bigger for the 16v for proper power. your gonna have to spend plent anyway to get it to run right so you may as well get it to run really right. the yanks use t3/04E for good power. maybe a TD05 of a impreza although air entry isn't the best. a smaller TD04 is standard entry type and cheap too. good for around 280hp bout hunder quid and a lot newer than the saab unit.

11 bar gotta be good for 1500hp with plenty of toluene. gimme, gimme now 1 bar. is that a 68mm pulley. sounds about right with a 68. slightly under for a 65mm mine makes around 16psi on a good day. its due a rebuild thats on a 65mm

isn't the pulley difference for their non aircon models? im not sure but if it is its likely thatwe already have this unless you have airocon. just get a 65mm and dont worry about the crank one. plenty of boost with that probly more cost in a crank pulley than a charger one.

correct me if im wrong but r1 and s4 are yabba terms right. id expect most of us to use either gworks or pitstop for charger jobs now anyway. from what i can gather a s4 charger offers not a great deal over a standard one. conservetive porting by jabba. mines a s4 like most. down to cost i think that most have the s4. also i think you need the induction kit for the R1 which yups the cost again.

sorry the second filter is for the rocker oil breather. i have no catch can. i got the filters from http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/ £7 each around 20 quide all in delivered for 2 plate from darren-cheers mate hose pipe piece for isv-cut off hose pipe. looked for metal to join. my mate is a plumber but had no pipe that size so..and anyway the green hosepipe is spot on for the join. total was 30 quid. no oily crap as of yet from the filter on the rocker cover. isv one is atached to end of hose just hanging down.

ill take some pics. i know i always say this but ill try and be true to the word. the 1st filter is on the breather on the rocker cover n the second on the end of the isv. need for spped do green filters and a cheaper alternative. i went with the cheaper ones. performance wise about the same. like bilal said its makes performance last for longer rather than better. the 65mm makes the charger get a bit warm. oil temps are still around the same. ill dig the camera out and take some pics. ill get some of the frontmount,slimfan,ubend etc too.

well in search of lower oil temps(not got a proper oil cooler yet i removed the boost return. it took all of around 15 minutes to do. Thanks to darren for the swift response on the blanking plate. not really much noisier than before as it was already pretty loud but its now taken on the jet plane type sound. for those without all you need to fit is 2 x 18mm breather filters (20 quid delivered from needforspeed) 1x Gwerks charger blanking plate kit. 1x 2inch piece of hose pipe to join filter to isv. oil breather fits straight on.

im still gonna try n build something this yr. if it pops then i can always put the pg back in. i do have the advantage of the digi 1 setup to start with so.. fitting a full 20v t has to be the best bang for buck major mod you can do. your gonna need all the other bits too like exhaust system engine mounts FMIC piping fuel system mods. gauges to see when its gonna pop to name but a few.

bbm twin screw can push the amount of air at the kind of revs that the 16v needs. the G60 is ok for a 8v but not really the best for a valve. it cannot provide good air over 6k no point doing this for 30hp over a decent pg G60 is there