GazzaG60

thats right master feed slave. took me 2 hours roughly good luck

he said 39.48 for a sport comp boost 20psi with vac. in 52mm equivilent.

start at master. keep res topped right to top. clutch is the top line out of res n air can get trapped n dragged down line. bleed master first.i use a easy-bleed manual line tis easier with 2 peeps. one to pump pedal n one to top up res n watch for fluid leeks spillages, or use a power jobbie. bleed a good bit thru the master i usually use a stella bottle nearly full n use it all for the full job. do same with slave. pedal has to be lifted from floor every time. Once that is done the pedal should return back during operation. if there is a cylinder problem. it will soon retuyrn to its broken state. io bled mine bout 5 times during the broken period. each bleed made it better for around a week at first then tailing off to a day when the part was shagged

peeps Try VWspeedshop.co.uk i spoke to this guy a while back. He's based in manchester and is a air cooled man. He's a autometer blokey.

nice. mine was ok for around a month and a half then i got pissed off with it. just have to remember to follow the pedal back up init. does the pedal drop smoothly or sharply. a bad part would move smoothly as its a air problem usually. if it drops like a stone then it may be something different. incidently i fited my master last weekend. took around 2 hours for full job with a brew in between. tis only attached with 2 13mm nuts on the inside of the car.

sounds like a air/cylinder thing deffo. the master is like a plunger going into the cylinder. the plunger has a hole in the top which slides over the pin on the pedal n a little clip holds it on. id bet it aint that clip. the spring has just enoght to lift the pedal back up when all is connected. if the master isn't then the forces are all for the spring so the pedal comes towards the seat n ends up nearly horozontal. when you touch down on the pedal does it start to pull away from your foot if you only apply slight pressure. You shouldn't see anything on the box move. all the moving parts are internals.

tis a tool for k-jet. can get them from eurocarparts. tis a long hex key

is that right. sounds wrong to me. The pedal,only usually falls to floor if 1. master is dead 2. slave is dead 3. air in line. 4. leak in system if you take the clip off n disconnect the master from pedal. the pedal shoots up not down. the spring forces it out. i just sorted mine n this is what happens either master or slave goes-replace both at same time. bleed system v v well starting at master theworking down. when replacing slave b v v careful not to disturb the positioning on the cables or you may not get a gear after. dont damage the line from the master to slave. goes behind heat shields n all. try bleeding it up first. keep ressy at total full while doing this. a few diag things. can you lift the pedal when it goes with your toes. i could. it gets worse over the coming weeks. when you go first gear n hold pedal down does it start to bite after a while on its own-if it does this is a internal seal leak in master or slave or fluid leak. cost for these parts is 45 ish for slave, 90ish for master

if a new engines going in id wait til then n have a look. you will probly remove coolant hoses-a good time to check.

i run a std G60 without cat. 2.5 straight thru. up to 3k there is a loss i think

ill be there by then mate. Gonna head down on thursday night n stay in Boston n head on down on the friday morning Not had a confirmation yet from them though. What time can you go on site? Shame this car aint got a passat boot for the beer

check coolant flanges-they shouldn't leak this much check rad for holes. you wont see um until its under pressure Hose split-as above bottom rad hose loose(one to metal pipe) dreaded one Headgasket. is it white clouds of smoke?

check the air way that the cold ait takes into the car. my sciricco blew warm/hot all the time, even on cold because i removed panels that seperate air. therefore my cold air is engine air

they seem ok. the falkens lsted about 8 months on the front. I can get eagle F1 for 105 a tyre i think maybe next time

i have yoko A539 in 205 40 17. they seem good so far. maybe better in dry than wet but thats no suprise. they are better in the wet than my old Falken FK451 tyres and weat better and have a better side wall coverage. so far they ok.

think its a matter of replacing the tensioner wheels. they just pull off but the belt has to be off first. if my oil is slightly low i get a tapping noise at startup before oil is around engine.

check oil level isn't low. What pressure u getting. i get squeak. seems to be worse when its damp. Check the tensioner wheels.

new ones are no quicker than old unless its STi. they boost a liottle earlier than the old ones though. if you can do a old one try a new one as most are still std. build a reputation :twisted:

not knocking it. gotta remember that the scooby is more modern technology and has more hp n a rally bred chassis so should be the speed winner everytime. bet the scoob wasn't happy. well done mate. was it a standing start too. :D not been out in a std subaru for around 3 years so they probly aint as good as i think. probly the tuned ones are differnet beasies i see the merits but after all i drive what i do for a reason n its not that the c is cheaper.

that maybe true if running on what it was mapped for but we dont run on jap grade fuel. Std jap cars run higher boost. can only go off what i am told and what i see in the workshop a few times a week.( i use their ramps. rolling in the c adds much needed class to the est.) number 3 is the weakest cylinder in one-longest distance. apparently it doesn't take a lot to make the whole bottom end swish n knock valves once the crank bearings are dead In general the jap spec scooby is v similar STi 5 is the strong one. better shell, engines, gear ratios etc but if things go wrong thats when the problem starts. my mates are blitz,HKS,MRT,Pace,White lines, Link distributers and so have jap/aus contacts but even they cannot get the stuff. a ally front end repaired half steel is a common one.

if the scooby is standard there wont be a lot in in in a straight line but there aint many standard ones left around my area. 1.4bar will leave a vr standing mid-range too.

one more thing. try n avoid a WRX. import vehicles dont like our fuel n ive seen many having engines replaced due to runningf 95 ron fuel. insurance too is steep on a import mainly due to some using ally panels which you cant get over here. go UK car. cheaper parts and seem a tad more sturdy

Impreza is a good machine. i am not a jap car fan. i dont like the build quality or the styling but as a a-b road bullet it cannot be beaten. my friends run jap-innovations in oldham and specialise in subaru stuff. they have numerous cars that are at around 400hp. this is obtainable with a good exhaust, fuel and air controlers and a good boost controller. no mapping at that level but when dyno'd they come out good on air n fuel n that. come to japanese auto extravaganza at billing, northampton this year. ill be there with the guys n my rose between the thorns. id bet a lot that there aint a corrado about that can see one of theese cars off. i aint talkin straight line now. thats not a real test.

they look good. practical they are not.

G60 anyday. smoked a VR the other day n mines standard. he had handling problems. now when i up the power i wouldn't like to think how far behind the VR will be. :lol: