GazzaG60

9a block pistons - either wiseco or JE are good. get from US for cost reasons under 300 quid rods - your choice - us again 200 quid take pistons to good shop and bore will be done to match each piston as the sizes are slightly different and they will put in the right clearence for expansion for each bore. standard cams will produce over 400hp if needed. im gonna get my cnc head from cnc heads. no offence darren.

id drop the charger and fit a turbo. better power and reliability. use 83mm pistons in a 9A for 2008cc i believe the oil squirters need mods the s2 route for a kr but im with beigey on the s2 pistons dropping straight through. 16v rods are a better choice anyway as the rod ratio improves over a G60 rod. 9a rods will do 300 wheel no worries. fit arp ford 289/302 bolts to the rods for safety costs are not bad. for 700 quid i got the 9a, bored and sleeved on 1 cylinder, cranik polished and balanced, scat rods and wiseco pistons plus shells etc. use the std cams or the exhaust cam mod or the boost may just blow by without proper cam phasing.

ive always run a boost gauge and thisis how it went. floor it - 2krpm - 12psi -more - more -6k - 18psi then with the slip. floor it - 2krpm - 10 psi - 4k - 10psi - 6k -14psi this could well be a boost leak too but i can feel the slack in the belt and it may well slip when pushed. to be honest in aint worth the 400 quid plus for the tooths to give another 5 horse somewhere in the rev range if you ask me unless you are already at 200 plus running a 62 or smaller.

must say i never felt i had an issue with slip on the standard pulley type at 65mm as long as the belt was in good condition along with the tensioner spring being relatively stiff. recently the tensioner spring has become a bit worn and now it slips i think.

does the tensioner not kinda split a serp belt. a cam belt gets that groove up the middle but the teeth run across to hold strength. with the ribs running along doe it not cause an issue in the center of the middle rib. my mate did use golf 16v ones on a subaru sport he supercharged for a customer. seemed to hold up fine.

bin the tensioner cap and fit the right smaller belt. those caps have been known to not be quite right.

my mate got his red 8v for about 450. j plate big bumper. the red will t-cut up ok. or his does anyway. clay bar alswo works well. usual 8v issues such as valve stem seals, plastic water flanges rocker cover gaskets. usual 8v reliability to match though.

id go 50 trim with a 0.48 hotside myself.

lower tyre pressure will effect rr figure.

its about 10% well within roller difference tollerence.

wont a 30r be on the small side. isn't a 35r more usable. suppose its whether you want a mid-range torque curve or not. either way the GT is the way t go. i only went sc61 cos i couldn't afford/justify the extra and the advantages on 2wd are less as a slower spool can help keep traction. thinking of the gearbox. subarus suffer where they get boosted and the smaller turbo ones create a torque spike bout 3500. this rips out 3rd and 4th gear (all one unit) changing to a bigger turbine smooths this out somewhat and the spike is less destructive. trade off: lag

its all about the depth of the ringland kev as to weather a cast piston is any good. many in the US use stock 9a pistons in turbo motors with compression lowered another way. they hold 300hp no worries 1bar plus boost. not sure on vr ones but IIRC the word was good. i only paid £260 for the wiseco's so it wasn't too bad. worth looking at different forged pistons though as some require more clearence than others. some even have a clearence against boost level type plan. ive gone arp rod and head bolts. i put arp ford 289/302 in the 9a rods and the scats have arp 2000 anyway.

boost return mod basically blocks the return of the charger or vents with twin filter. the pipe off the throttle body is removed. basically boosted air then goes to atmosphere rather than returning to the charger. this in turn lowers intake temps and helps with intercooler heatsoak. makes more noise though. the outled edging is to alllow more flow to lower internal charger pressures and flow air more efficiently.

most impreza are cast, just high elasticity cast kev but i agree with what you are saying. usually a factory forged is a half way house. the cossie is the classic forged piston engine that lasts about 50-80k without a build. for new rings id always rehone. its the making of good combustion and compression.

a t610 can handle a corrado. a k750i cannot.

hi sorry no updates but i will soon. ive been a bit quiet over summer but heres what ive been up to. scat rods - fitted now. waited 6 weeks for a arp ring compressor after swearing at the adjustable too many times. the block is done. 83mm wiseco pistons, scat rods, balanced crank. i got box, cvs shafts etc now. i plan to run g60 shafts, transporter inner cv's and mk4 shifter connected to the 02m from a cupra r. i now got the clutch and flywheel too. i got a spec alloy flywheel 10lbs i think and a 6 paddle clutch. stage 3. i need to pressure test the manifold i made. may make a vid of that as it may be destructive. i also got a vr throttle body to do my initial tuning on. the 75mm may be too big. i have wrapped the exhaust manifold which took some doing. dont see many vw's wrapped but my experience with subaru's tells me its worth a few 100 rpm spool. got a few msns mods to do yet. cams are all modded. im gonna run the 2 exhaust cams first then may go solid lifter with some big shricks. basically im a race spec head short of an engine. im gonna get that from cncheads. not sure if i will try and go oversize valves yet or uprated springs but expect i will. research tells me they may be a good idea over 7500rpm. i am gonna be fitting my new brakes tonight hopefully. i got 4 pot wilwood superlites with 310x30 discs. for reference a recent US 16vT with more or less the same spec as me made 410whp at 20 psi. so im optomistic. i drove over my phone which is why i haven'y updated the post as i have to borrow a digi-cam. ill get onto it ASAP.

the mechanical allows a smoother transition to and from boost. as the charger is providing enough air to be in boost at any given point ytou need to vent some off for normal driving. the flap provides a very smooth transition. fit a BOV and you will see what an on/off delivery is. the isv only vents boost on certain code's apparently. i was told IIRC by sam at SNS that the euro variety doesn't have this boost bleed-off only US where itll bleed when knock or overboost is detected hence the jiro/isv reroute mod.

good results and nice rims. cant wait to see the graph. G60 is all about under the torque curve. what size pulley you running? nice to see people take the G60 places when its oh so easy to just transplant an engine. major props

and the block needs to be honed before you fit otherwise they wont bed in. softly softly wont help bedding in either. gotta force those rings out. a forged piston usually contains more elasticity than a cast one and so makes it more able to handle pressures and poorer tuning. it may end up burning more oil thogh as the block usually has to be bored with some clearence for the expansion of the piston meaning it make smoke cold.

the co-pot allows fueing to be trimmed. this trimming is based around lambda correction as far as i can remember. basically it changes the partial fuelling. do you have an af gauge. if you do the best way i could see the changes was here. when i put the sns in it was rich basicaly harly moved from rich. as i adjusted the co-pot ohm up (up =leaner) the fueling started to react where it would cyucle and only go rich when on boost or at WOT. as needed. AF gauge can help diagnose easier. in your case jmr its possible that you are runnig slightly rich and the probe was on its last legs or another is that the exra power finished off the front engine mount and ragged the o2 wires about a bit.

helicoil is one option. it involves putting an insert into the hole once drilled out bigger and screwing into that. like a wall plug. you could try and find some bolts with tapered shoulders going to a bigger thread or smaller shaft on the stud

1500 miles taking it easy sounds like a good way not to bed the rings in. especially taking it easy.

hi mate you dont get muxh of a power increase from a charger build. what you get is a fresh charger with new seals and bearings and if you so wish a port aswell. Basically the port removes metal from the charger in non structural places allowing the charger to pass air more freely and reduce its internal stresses. this however is usually complimented with a chip and pulley on the charger. The pulley makes the charger spin faster putting out a larger volume of air. forcing more air into the engine increases resistance(boost pressure) and increases power. the air needs to be acumpanied by fule and correct timing hence the chip change. you can get around 200hp with a 65mm pulley, Front mount IC, red top injectors and a sns chip to match. a good charger will deliver around 17psi with a 65mm.

i agree. id double earth it. what shows on a af gauge. does it cycle then go back to warmup - broken power wire. bad signal - get a lean signal - bad earth or signal wire. car will chug more and more as time goes on over a minute or so period. lean signal tells injectors to put more in making more chug... i had a universal in and it wouldn't hold properly. in the end i got a full probe and wiring to 4 pin plug from vw and fixed the issues on the car harness side. thats the weak side usually.

maybe worth using that G60 block and putting some arps in. the arps for my valve engine have a value where guys with loads of boost have lifted the head unless they torque um tighter by 10lbs/ft or so. helicoil wont help if thats needed to hold your compression + boost. good luck on a cheap bill