Slimg60

Good luck dude but it is well worth the effort :clap:

I swapped the leads over on the blue/black temp sensor and it still did it. It sounds like it is still running on all 4 when the revs drop, but just struggling to idle. If I try to drive it like this there is very little power, and if I try to rev it hard it struggles. I have to press the throttle gently to keep it running until it clears through. The throttle switches all seem to be making contact, perhaps I'll get some electrolube in there and just make sure everything is clean. I'll get some carb cleaner and have a go at the ISV. If not then it'll be an insurance claim and a very nice 24v that for sale :D

Sounds very similar. I have an SNS chip too but have had it fitted for a couple of years and never had this problem. Does your need a little throttle to keep running? Mine slowly drops the revs until it feels like it's running on spanners and then cuts out.

Superb work, wish I had the knowledge to carry out work like this :salute:

Give G-Werks a call, they're BBM suppliers and would be able to sort out fitting for you too. The service there is superb

Right, just been out to the carpark for a quick nosey. The earth lead from the throttle body to the bulk head is completely diconnected from the bulkhead, and the earth on the side of the block (as long as it's the one beside the charger oil line) has a rather funky blue fur coat (suppose it must get cold outside all the time!). The throttle cable has a little slack in it, so there is a bit of pedal movement before the cable becomes tight and starts to move. Thinking I need to re-attatch/clean these earths and see if my problem persists :scratch:

Idle switch? Is this on the throttle body near the WOT switch?

**Firstly, I have searched! Unfortunately their idle problems seem to be permanant but mine is intermittant.**! When I start the car when the engine is cold (first thing in the mornin) it starts and idles fine. I can drive to work and it will be fine. After leaving the car to cool off for a while (and hour or so) When I start her it really struggles to idle and needs a little bit of throttle to keep running or it will cut out. After 30sec-1min it will clear itself and run fine :scratch: I can then turn it off and on again and it will run fine. It seems to be temperature related, so have tried swapping the plugs over on the blue/black temp sensors and it was still the same. I suspect it could be the lambda but this was changed a couple of years ago. Like I have said, I've read similar threads but the idle problem seems constant for them where as mine clears itself. Please help as having spent the whole weekend cleaning her, I'd actually like to drive it now!! Cheers Slim

i was really surprised with how dirty the clay got, even just after I'd washed the car.

I cannot believe what a difference it has made :eek: Spent a couple of days with the clay, megs stage 1, SRP, EGP and wax and it looks like a completely differnt car, until it rained last night :lol:

spot on, cheers dude 8)

having just found a new clay kit sitting at the back of my shed I think i'll give it a go. Unfortunately I have no idea how to use one. I've washed and dried the car. Do you rub the clay bar round like applying polish? Any help would be much great. Cheers Slim

I've had the loss of power before but not the clunking noise. It turned out to be a dodgy seal on one of the intercooler pipes, that under full boost would break the seal and feel like the charger had died. As soon as the boost had gone for a few seconds it would reseal itseal and feel ok again. It took :censored: ages to trace this but was only because of a small amount of oil seepage from one of the pipe joins. HTH Good luck

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Classic :notworthy: I cant understand why after getting spanked the first time he goes back for more :scratch:

I agree that the near £25k it is a little pricey. However I am seriously looking into getting a Scirocco at the moment. Whilst a 911 would be great and there are many more within this price range I couldnt insure one for £265 fully comp a year (I'm only 25) and the tax would be more than £175. I might have to wait to see how much the new R is :norty:

Had another look tonight. Pin 1 is has a brown wire, and gives 0 ohms resistance to earth. Pin 2 has a red/white wire, and gave 500 ohms to earth. Pin 3 has a red/black wire and is open circuit to earth. Is this normal? :help:

Pin 1 or 3 (one of the outside pins) is defiantely earth, showing 0 ohms with respect to earth. The other outside pin shows as Open Circuit with respect to earth, I just thought it was unusual that the middle pin would show a low resistance. :shrug:

Right, I've been out this morning and resistance checked the fan plug to earth. I found that the middle pin was only 500ohms with respect to earth. Is this right or could this be the cause of my problems :shrug:

Please help. When I got my C back from having the new cooler, the rad fan had been moved and was wedged against the cowling, causing the fuse to blow. I have just been out to replace said fuse and as I slide the replacement into the holder, it popped in my hand. A voltage check later confirmed I have 12V across the fuse holder, dropping to 7-8V when I turn the ignition live. I only noticed the original fuse had popped when the temp crept up to a little over 100'C. Could this temp have knackered the the temp switch? Or is this likely to be some other gremlin :help:

Have you noticed that your car lost some "punch" off the throttle? I found that when I fitted the TD5 one it took longer pressurise so didnt have the same kick. Thats why I had the new one fitted.

My top mounts look like the "knackered" pictures, however they have been on the car a week and done less than 200 miles. They were genuine VW parts and fitted by a local garage. There are no knocks or bangs coming from the front end, unlike the last mounts. Will they sit higher as my car is lowered so much or are these new ones actually badgered? :shrug:

Andy Waters in Horncastle, i've had to sacrifice some of the slam panel but there's a lot of airflow there.

I got the car back yesterday after she spent the week in getting the new intercooler fitted. :D I guy changed his mind over doing a rallye bend, he said it's too sharp for the air to flow efficently. Instead he went for an ally 180' bend. Corrado92.pdfDSC00215.JPG[/attachment:b3z54uvd] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSC00216.JPG[/attachment:b3z54uvd] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSC00220.JPG[/attachment:b3z54uvd] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC00222.JPG[/attachment:b3z54uvd] DSC00227.JPG[/attachment:b3z54uvd] This set up is much better than the TD5, I'd used too much silicone so was probably breaking the seals and loosing boost when I opened the taps She also had new wishbone, bearing, ARB links and mounts, top mount and everything aligned and tracked, feels like a new car. Unfortunately he also found on of my front brake pads had come away from the backing plate, wouldnt mind too much but they've done less than 3000 miles :censored: Bloody EBC :censored:

A DeLorean!! A :censored:ing DeLorean!