John-M
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Everything posted by John-M
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I had a problem recently with with the ABS light staying on - theres a thread about it - but after fitting the new sensor, it was clear that the abs ring was slightly buckled and would rub on the end of the sensor. I used a thick ( 'ish ) screwdriver blade between the abs ring and the caliper-monting lug ( positioned at about 2 o'clock if you imagine the sensor is at about 10 o'clock ) to gently bend it back so it didnt rub. Gently and gradually would be my advice. Good luck.
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Don't think it was THIS pensioner. I don't remember driving that slow on any B roads recently - but that might just be 'cos of the Alzheimer's. :lol:
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Sorry, Folks - I've been offline for a few weeks. I'll get onto it and post any news in here.
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No - never worked how to remove it. It really does look to me as if it simply doesnt come out. I even took the box apart, but still couldnt get the plug removed. V strange.
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Window Rollers Group Buy: A few sets left
John-M replied to Alex_G60_Fanatic's topic in Forum Group-Buys
Mine arrived today - Thanks, Alex :) -
ABS Light stays on - How do I see which sensor has failed ?
John-M replied to John-M's topic in Drivetrain
Damnit - got a genuine VW one just yesterday, considerably more than your Ebay price. And yes, its a bugger to get the old one out. Had a go yesterday but didnt manage it. What method did you resort to, JMC ? I'm thinking I may have to remove the sensor ring and brake disc holder so I can get a drift into the area and use brute force. But that'll have to wait a week, as I'm away. -
ABS Light stays on - How do I see which sensor has failed ?
John-M replied to John-M's topic in Drivetrain
That is exactly what I have just done, after reading the threads in the search results, ta for pointing me there, Wullie :) Front offside was 'open circuit' - the other three all similar readings of about 0.'7 on my multi-meter resistance scale. So off to see how much to get hold of a new bit now. Thanks to all who helped :) -
ABS Light stays on - How do I see which sensor has failed ?
John-M replied to John-M's topic in Drivetrain
OK, thanks for that. I'll mention the baud rate idea. The car has had at least one, maybe 2, replcements while I've had it - I'll dig out all the old bills and see which was done. Any other ideas ... ... -
As the title suggests - my ABS light is now staying on, suggesting one of the wheel sensors has packed up. At switch-on, the light flickers for a couple of seconds, as per usual - but doesnt go out as it used to, at about the same time as you get the wee 'clunk' that you can feel on the brake pedal, which still happens. A local VW specialist hooked up his VagCom, but it seems it wasnt able to 'talk to' the ABS controller to get the info. Maybe something to do with my 24V conversion ? Or maybe a diff fault :( Is there any other easy way to determine which of the wheel sensors is not responding ? Any help greatly appreciated. BTW, I suspect that it is one of the front sensors that has failed. The light stayed on a few weeks ago but after I disconnected and re-connected the two connections in the engine bay it seemed ok. Stupidly I didnt do the 'try one side at a time' technique, so I dont know which side was the culprit. Doh !! I have disconnected/reconnected all 4 connectors now, to no effect.
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My rear axle bushes are due again and I've decided I'm not keen on the PRS , so I'll be going with Vibratechnics ones. I'll let you know what they're like! 'PRS' ??
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I did get in touch with them and they said they'd come back with some detail. That was a while ago - I'll follow it up now.
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Good find :)
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My alarm is an after-market Clifford - which will be located wherever the installer decided. On mine its near the glove-box.
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Looks to be a thread to follow :) Welcome back, btw :) :)
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I've had a 'remote' central locking problem recently - and found that there is an in-line fuse in one of the wires between the alarm contol box and the connection to the central locking wiring, Replaced the fuse and the Remote central locking is now fine.
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These come up regularly for sale on here, but the wee tabs are v v fragile, and can easily get broken during shipment unless very sympathetically packed - says the voice of experience, here :(
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I had a similar problem recently, but the fault also knocked out my power windows - finally tracked it down to the vacum module in the driver's door, but there's also one in te passenger door. See the following threads :- viewtopic.php?f=19&t=94283 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=92270 Best of luck :)
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Yes, ordered from my local dealer, arrived within 1 day :) Cost - about £33 as I recall. Not cheap, but it fixed the problem ! And how much would labout have been if it had been diagnosed and fixed by a dealer ??
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One mod I did, years ago, that cost 'nothing' :- Cut the wire that auto-closes the sunroof when locking/closing windows. As I recall, it's a yellow wire that can easily be found in the sunrrof switch / interior lights switch area in the drop down switch panal. This allows ventilation into the car when it's left parked, essential in these hot times.
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I can't help with isolating the alarm, sorry. Although I did discover a seperate fuse in the loom associated with my Clifford Concept 50 alarm / immobilisor so it is probably the same with yours. My Clifford will, now, remotely lock doors when the fob is pressed, but only makes a 1-second attempt to close the windows - probably there is a relay that I've yet to locate. But, back to the main issue - if disconnecting one of the door-based vacum modules doesnt cure it, then I'd for sure try the other one. I discovered that the module was to blame after tracing the ( big thick red ) live wire from the fuse box to all the units it fed. There were a number of other, smaller, red/live wires leading off from the single thick one - it was just a matter of trace and eliminate. Good luck - nudge me if you need any more help.
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ABS Pedal distance sensor now obsolete... Grrrrrrr
John-M replied to Vince@Stealth's topic in Suppliers Forum
Recieved this week - thanks :) -
Lupo, or TT, wipers mudt surely be one of the best, easiest, and most effective mods to do, no ?? Followed by an upgraded headlamp loom. As someone on here once said - 'The Corrado, 140mph car - 70mph Headlights - 50mph windscreen wipers.'
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My car has a 'PSI-modified' rear engine mount, but I never managed to find out from them why it was modified. All I learned from them was that the metal 'sleeve' round the mount was removed - which incidently resulted in my VW dealer refusing to fit a brand new engine mount 'because it needed to be modified' !!
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OK, I'll have a dig around mine and let you know what I find. Such a rat's nest or wires there, lol.
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Thanks for the replies - saw the kit at GTi Inter this last weekend, sure looks nice. But I just can't afford to have any after-fit issues :) My current manifold/downpipes seem to be blowing a little, but I guess a more simple fix is to just get that done and maybe not bother with the aesthetically more pleasing 6-branch. Thanks again for the replies :)