John-M

Now that IS cruel !

You may be better taling it to a Clifford dealer, who will have access to wiring diagrams etc. I know it's an old model - I had one fitted over 13 years ago - but all Clifford's dealers have access to factory info. Might cost you a few quid, but they s/be able to fix it for you.

On VRs, which VibraT front mount do ppl here use - the fast road or the competition/racing one ?? I have been advised differently by two sources :confused4:

I'm about to swap my 280mm's for 288's and will be going for DS2500. I have Mintex on at the moment and am not impressed - nothing wrong with 'em, but nowhere near as good as the DS2000 pads I had on before. Not sure yet where to source them, tho.

OK, I know I shouldn't, really, but I have to ask - who is Caroline ? lol

If it's of any help at all, I have a double drive ( 2 car width) that only ever has my C on it. If you need somewhere to 'store' it for a while let me know. I'm in Bramford, on the west side of Ipswich, about 2 miles from the A14 junction for Claydon. Double garage too - but no room in that even to swing a cat :(

The 4Motion engine I had fitted to my VR originally came with aircon - but in the conversion the aircon pump wasnt fitted, as I had no need for it. Now ( with all this talk of Global Warming !! ) I am interested in getting aircon /climate control fitted. First question - do any of you who also have 4M engines in their Corrado have the aircon pump fitted ? Is there room for it ? It rings a bell that there may have to be some modification to the front cross-member - can anyone confirm this ?? Thanks in advance for anyone who can throw any usefull info my way. BTW, I was only joking about the Global Warming - it's damn freezing here right now :lol:

If you haven't sussed it yet, here's how. Use the 'reply with quote' button. Looks a bit like a right arrow at the top right of the post. ....thanks mate but what I meant was how do you quote a section from a post rather than the whole post ? :confused4:[/quote:3vyp3lnd] Do as detailed above, but then get your curser into the bit between the quotes and do some deleting - but be wary of deleting the square brackets and quotes or it all goes wrong.

It's the part of town you are in, lol.

I've always had oem discs, so was inclined to stay with them - but just wondered if there were any other particular recommendations.

Thanks for all the input :) I do like the look of Kip's discs - I'll be giving that a try. I'm having the calipers/carriers sand-blasted so may also give them a similar treatment. Supercharged: I omitted to mention that I'll be converting to 288mm brakes, but my owm VR discs never seemed to resist rusting at all well. I never could understand why, with modern manufacturing tolerance capabilities, the pads weren't made to sweep right to the edge of the disc, rather than a few mm less, leading to the rust-rim on the outer edge. The 288 discs/pads I have ( old ones that came with the calipers/carriers ) do seem to sweep much nearer the outer edge, tho :) On the question of discs - I want plain, not drilled/grooved. So, OEM or Brembo ? Or other suggestions ? Pads will be Ferodo DS2500.

I'm about to fit new discs in the New Year - and I have in mind trying to do something to 'rust-proof' the areas that dont get swept clean by the pads, particularly the outer rims where they are ventilated. Any ideas ? I have in mind using Hammerite - anyone used this ? BTW, will be using standard discs, I have no wish for grooved/drilled ones, which are the only ones I know of that have anti-rust coatings out of the box. Any other suggestions gladly recieved. Oh, and a Merry Christmas and a Happy ( and safe ) New Year to all.

And in this weather / road conditions you have to hope and pray that everybody else is driving sensibly ! Not always the case :(

I have a de-badged grill that I have yet to put on. New suspension - a little lowered - is an early New Year target. That apart, there's little visible that I aim to be doing - apart from one wee mod that I have in mind. Under the bonnett is a diff matter tho :) 24V is way better than 12V, even without it being properly re-mapped. Another New Year treat in store :) Personally, one of the visible mods that I just can't like is the bonnett bra. OK, I know it saves the stone chippings on the front - but ... ...

In this month's Performace VW there is a feature on a firm, relatively close to me, called Newton Commercial. They are in the business of making new carpet sets, among other things, for a range of classic cars, many VWs included. I have just had a brief word with them to see if they have any plans for the Corrado - no plans yet but they would be interested to know how much interest there might be in new Corrado carpet sets - these are the proper full carpets, not mats, by the way. No idea of likely cost at the moment, it depends on how much re-tooling would be required, but they already do Golf Mk 1 and 2 sets so there may be a good base there, and a full set for a Golf Mk 2 ( excluding boot area ) is £138.00. I am intending to pop up and see them so they can have a look at what might be necessary. If anyone is interested please indicate here. No commitment yet, of course, just an initial feeler for possible numbers.

I had handbrake problems a couple of months ago - I seemed to have to pull the lever up a long way before anything happened. Put the car in 1st gear, chocked the wheels, scrabbled under the rear. Had someone sit in the car and pull on the lever, then release. The pivot wasnt returning much at all. Gave the external pivots a good squirt with WD40 and left it for an hour. Repeated the excercise - this time manually returning the pivot after the lever was released. After a few repeats of this, and more WD, it was 100% better and the slack was reduced. Passed the MOT last week with no handbrake-related problems.

I've just had a few days away across the channel - well, under it really - and we spent 4 nights in Bruges. Lovely city, great food, soo many different types of beer to try, everyone speaks English, people are friendly - It's a place I'd happily recommend to anyone wanting a few days away to somewhere 'abroad' but not too far and not too foreign. Nice small Christmas market as well - the only dampener on whole trip was the almost continual rain, tols you it wasn't too foreign :) Ok, Ok, I hear some of you mutter, what's this got to do with the thread's title 'Interior trim testing' ??? Well, the other feature of the place is - the well-known Belgium 'pave'. The inner-cite roads/streets are made up of small block paving pieces - consequently, if your car has a rattle anywhere, or an ever-so-slightly ill-fitted bit of trim that you thought was perfect, you WILL know about it as soon as you get into the city :lol: So if you've just re-fitted all the interior and want to give it a good test - and have a pleasant trip into the bargain - head for Bruges. :) :)

FR, FL. As you look at the car from the front ? Or as you sit in the car looking forward ??

All done, nowhere near as difficult as I'd thought it would be. Thanks for the guidance.

OK, thanks for that. Job for tomorrow morning. ll post progress :) or lack of :(

I would be very interested to hear your opinion once you have them fitted. Are you fitting them yourself ?? I am in need of new suspension allround and am seriously considering these - but cant really justify the cost of V3s.

I need to replace the (drivers side) headlight level adjuster. I have a new one, but can't seem to remove the old, broken, one. Do you have to remove the headlight, take off the glass lens, and remove anything from inside ? Or is it that I'm not applying sufficient brute force when trying to remove it from the back of the whole headlight housing ? Any hints would be gratefully recieved :)

The Bently manual specifies that you need to 'coat seals, pistons and cylinder with VW brake cylinder paste or equivalent before installing' . This is relatively expensive, at £30 for a tube that would be sufficient for oh-so-many cars !! If you are on good enough terms with the parts/service people at your dealer, you may be able to scrounge enough to do a couple of sets :) .

Have a look at the tip I wrote up here :- http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 23&t=86433

A question for the electronic wizards on here - something I've wondered about for years :- I grasp the concept of the 'code' changing each time you use it - but how do the emitter and reciever keep in step ? What happens if I press the button on my 'key' when I'm nowhere near the car ? Wont the key change its code, but the reciever will still be expecting the code the key just used ?? I can see how the concept works in a two-way handshake method, as in computer networking, but not where the two devices are not two-way. Can anyone educate me ?? it might be that the emitter sends a random code to the receiver, then, the receiver returns a reply to the emitter's random "message" and the emitter sends a third message which is the one that "opens" the central locking. like Request Reply Acknowledge in networking :) That would work - but I doubt that the 'key' is also a reciever. But, what do I know. :scratch: