John-M

That looks to be v useful - thanks :)

OK, I know where I'm off tomorrow :) How many tubes does a typical sunroof lube need, Kev ??

I've moved this from the thread it was in before - to avoid hijacking someone elses thread ... ... My central locking and power windows both have recently stopped working - possibly around the time that I was fixing my passenger-side door handle ( using Dave's kit ). The single 20amp one on its own at the top of the fusebox is blown - and blows replacements. Input to it is 12v ok, but the circuit out of that fuse position goes straight to earth, according to my circuit tester. I have looked at the wiring in the doors ( thanks to suggestions by 'Supercharged' ) and all looks ok in there, but maybe I need to look again. The above-mentioned fuse has two red wires - a very thick 12v live one and a slightly less thick red one ( the one that seems to be 'earthed' ) which I have now traced from the back of the fusebox to the Power Window Control Module which lives behind the interior trim adjacent to the off-side rear seat. There are three sets of connections into that module, a small black one, a small brown one and large white one, which is where the 'red wire' connects into the module. The brown and black connectors easily pull out of the module, but the white one seems reluctant to come out, and has no apparant side clips holding it in. So, should this white one be removeable ? I want to remove it to see if this stops the earthing problem. Has anyone removed/replaced this module ? If so, was the white connector removeable ?? Any assistance gratefully recieved ... ...

:lol:

Thanks. Just about to remove the driver's seat - so I can more easily get to the back of the fuse-box - then trace the wires into the doors. ... ... to be continued ... ... seperate thread started, to avoid hijacking this one.

You say it wont disarm ? Does that include using the 'valet mode' switch ? Thats the two-way switch, probably somewhere on the dashboard. That should switch the alarm 'off'.

When he says it will arm/lock ok, does he mean from the remote ? Or just the automatically after 20 secsonds or so ? My system, Clifford Concept 50, seems to use up the wee batteries at quite a rate, so thats a good starting point - or maybe the remote itself is faulty ? Theye aren't the most robust of fobs.

I had both door cards off recently - to fix a passenger door handle ( done, using Dave's kit ) and find/cure a water leak ( hopefully fixed, but no rain recently ). Not exactly sure if it was just before, or during, doing the above - bit now neither my central locking nor either windows work. Checked fuses, and the single 20amp one on its own at the top of the fusebox is blown - and blows replacements. Input to it is 12v ok, but the circuit out of that fuse position goes straight to earth, according to my circuit tester. Time to follow the wires ... ... Electrics :mad2:

How many wheels are there ? I'm almost certain to be travelling to Yorkshire on the 26th April, and will be in West London on the 25th - happy to pick them up from anywhere near to Ealing and do the London-Yorkshire leg, if that's any help. Are you getting rid of the Scmidt's ??

Was quoted £130 plus vat a couple of days ago :( :(

My Brake Balance/Bias Valve ( located on the rear cross-member ) has a small leak. Not serious, but not something I want to leave ... ... Is it a serviceable item ? Or is replacement the only option ??

Keep an eye out on this forum for cars coming up for sale - at least then the car is 'known' and you can see what the owner has done/not done to it, and what problems he might have had with it. Other than that, just try get as low a mileage as possible, check serviceing, and bodywork.

Thanks - I was planning a trip there, so I'll call them first :)

I'd be interested to see what other people use, in terms of camber and toe-in/out settings. How much adjustment is there at the back ? And do the rear settings make anywhere as much difference as the front ??

Is it 'one size fits all' ??

I was travelling home from 'oop north' a couple of weeks ago and as I joined the A14 ( where the A14 and the A428 join ) there was this Omega Lotus Carlton on foreign plates just cruising by. Looked in pretty damn good condition, and in grey ! Due to the amount of traffic I couldnt get up to him - but the brief look I got was good enough. They are still a damn fine car, purposeful looking and nicely 'stealth'. Surprised at the colour though, I thought they were all that delightfull dark green - but maybe that was just the British ones.

You can either wait 'here' - and hope dave notices your post - or you could go to page one of the thread and pm daves16v. He'll respond, to be sure :)

Yandards - Thank you very much for all that. :notworthy: I'm sure others with the same problems will find it usefull, too. Not the cheapest solution, but if it proves a long-term and 100% solution ... ... ...

FOAM membrane ?? Surely foam isn't resistant to water getting through ?? I have acquired some polythene to make replacement membranes with, now just after the mastic stuff to stick it on with, One of my doors had had double-sided tape on from a previous body-repairshop - and it was a nightmare to clean off to get a good surface to start again with.

I was in my local dealer's last week asking about this - membrane no longer available, replacement no longer available, sealant no longer available ... ... Anyone got any part numbers for 'the VW stuff' ( the sealant ) ??

That would be very useful, thanks :)

That looks rather nice :)

Thanks for the above - I'm on the track of something that sounds like it will do the trick. Will report back :)

I have the door card off - to repair the door handle - and the door membrane is well past its use-by date. I have got some replacement polythene, but what to fix it to the door metalwork with ?? One of the doors had what looked like double-sided tape - which was a nightmare to clean up, so I'm reluctant to use that again. The other door looks like it has the original VW stuff - black rubbery mastic which is still, after all these years, soft to the touch and allows the membrane to be removed easily. But I'm having difficulty finding where to get any more of that 'mastic'. So, what has anyone else used to attach the membrane to the door when getting in there to repair door handles, fix leaks, install soundproofing, etc etc ?? Thanks in advance ... ...