bananawhip

Be interesting to get a before and after figure from the rolling road too, always useful knowing what really works to squeeze a bit more power out of a valver.

And if its a bit of feedback your looking for then I've been impressed with the difference after fitting mine

Yep admittedly the M3 is an amazing piece of engineering, as are most BMW's at the moment. They are so far ahead of Merc and Audi in regards to reaserch, development, technology etc Just a shame they tend to be a touch clinical, apart from the M6 that is, went out in one a couple of months back and oh my god!!! Sound of that V10 echoing off buildings made me sex-wee a little bit

I have a fairly strange view on the basic BMW range which will probably offend a lot of people but it's just my opinion 7's are for people with more money then sense (unless 2nd hand in which case I'm a big fan) 5's are for men 3's are for women ...unfortunately that makes the 1's completely pointless and the ugly cheap runt of the litter. (I hate the X range even more though) I've driven the 135 a few times and it's always a pretty average experience, awesome car but boring and not my cup of tea. For the money I'd take a 2nd hand M5 or jag xks every day of the week and with the change buy a mint storm and a merc G-wagen, now that would be one hell of a garage compared to an odd looking little BMW depreciating on the drive. Just my 2 pennies

Throw them at people standing at bus stops :bonk:

I am 100% certain 2 and 5 don't even attempt to fire, Looks like all routes lead to the engine loom Which leads me to my next question, can it be fixed by a standard mechanic or is it easier to replace the whole loom? If the latter then will an obd1 golf fit as they are easier to come by? Thanks for everyones help so far

Yeah this is what I'm thinking, I sprayed wd40 into the end of the loom which made no difference. Saying that though if I pull the loom around it does change the sound of the idle, nearly sounds as if I'm running on 3 cylinders if I push down on it so I'm thinking loose connections/damaged loom somewhere. Are the symptoms definately not indicative of a knackered trigger wheel/CPS? as I'd love to be able to rule those out without taking it all apart again.

Right I posted on here a while ago that after fitting my SP 263's my VR developed a lack of spark to cylinders 2 and 5, well that problem is still with me and it's getting depressing now. This is what I've replaced so it definately isn't... Plugs Leads Coil pack ECU Battery All I know is when I remove the wire to the cam position sensor it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to the idle, I fitted a new trigger wheel when I fitted the cams, if it's a duff one could it cause these symptoms? Also my engine loom looks a touch iffy but I'm probably just speculating now. I currently have no MOT so driving it around to put it on VAG-COM isn't an option, so it's trial and error. Somebody must have an idea as it's got me and my local vag specialist mechanic stumped!! Cheers

Can't say I'm the biggest fan either if I'm completely honest, Might look better on and the dish is pretty sweet but not my cup of tea

I genuinely wouldn't write off a 1.8, although they aren't quite as easy to tune as the 2.0 but they are quicker as standard anyway so it makes no odds. Great fun and cheap as chips to run. Easier to maintain with plenty of parts knocking about from the MK2 Golf, If and when you do decide you want more power then buy a VR6. The VR versus G60 debate could go on for years and offend a good few people so it's always a touchy subject. At the end of the day a 'Rado in any form is a great car and driving one will make you feel a part of the elite. The VR6 is the pinnicle (I believe :norty: ) which is why that model got the storm badge, why evo still have it ranked in their magazine, (and a recent article about the greatest front wheel drive cars of all time) and why it was on Top gears future classics feature. The G60 is an awesome machine don't get me wrong, but I think whichever model you get you will always want a factory fresh, low milage storm so enjoy a Valver for a year or two and see how you get on. Or just Pokemon it and "collect 'em all".....that's the only way to find out (In case you hadn't guessed I used to own a 1.8 16v and now run a VR so my views are extremely biased)

I have a performance chip that I'm not currantly using, if I fit this would that be enough just to check or should I get my hands on a whole new ECU do you think?

toad- thanks for the offer mate, haven't heard of that garage but I'll definately look into it, always nice to come across somebody local who knows their stuff. 3corsameal- that thread gives me a lot to think about and you may very well of won yourself a shiny badge... Although my c turns over just fine my battery has probably deteriorated from sitting after I blew my engine. Also when I fitted the new engine I fitted an underdrive crank pulley, do you think this combination could be robbing me of enough power to spark 2 and 5 on my coil?

thanks for the reply... Using any of the combinations I mentioned above I could literally put my finger in 2 and 5's ht leads and not get a shock. It makes absolutely no difference whatsoever when I take the leads off with the engine running, I've taken both plugs out and turned it over to visually check for spark and also used on of those tester light jobs (although not as good quality as the one you recommend) I'm 100% convinced it isn't firing on those cylinders and it isn't just a case of crap running due to a faulty lamda. Would a faulty cam trigger cause this? It was a vag one. Also would vag-com tell me exactly which sensor/component was at fault or just give me a rough idea? Thanks again

Right I will personally make a blue peter badge out of sticky back plastic for whoever can help me conclude my vr6 conundrums... I blew up my old engine and upon fitting a new one I replaced the plugs but kept my coil pack, drove it for 20 minutes with no problems until I parked up for a few days to fit my schimmels (with a new cam trigger) Upon refitting it went very strongly but within 5 minutes had developed an intermittant but very severe loss of power and misfire. This continued for around a week but as it ran so well at times I ruled out timing and put it down to crap leads. I fitted a new set from dubsport with no difference so investigated further, turns out no spark on cylinders 2 and 5 so obviously it pointed to my coil pack, more then likely exposed to excessive heat damage from my previous engine. I fitted a brand new coil pack which made no difference!!! I have tried various plug, lead, and both my coil pack combinations but 2 and 5 just won't fire. What I want to know is have I come across a 1 in a million chance where my new coil pack is faulty and won't fire on the same cylinders as my old one, or is it something else? as u can imagine with a new engine and cams I'm desperate to use all 6 of my cylinders, any help would be hugely appreciated

cheers for the replys, no doubt saved me a few quid which is never a bad thing :)

quick one... Where's the best place to grab a replacement vr coil pack from? preferably that won't break the bank, I heard the gsf ones suck Also is there a difference between rado, golf, vento, galaxy etc? Cheers

Cheers for the comments, I've been pulling my hair out about it. I had a coilpack engine so I was planning to run the following... AAA Sharan head and block ABV inlet manifold & TB, loom, ecu, injectors, coilpack Schimmel cams Hopefully this will all work together with no problems, The only difference would be my bore size will drop from 82mm to 81 so I cant see me losing any more then about 4-5bhp...correct me if I'm wrong. Anyone know if I'm good to go with the Sharan gearbox or is it running some monster truck big fat ratios? One more question...I've seen plenty of fabricated MK2 golf looms knocking about for carrying out OBD2 conversions, If I plan to get full obd2 management in the future will a golf loom fit a C?

OK I'm still none the wiser so I have 3 questions if anyone can help... If I keep my TB, Inlet manifold, fuel rail, looms, Schimmell cams and ECU will a AAA head and block from a Sharan fit straight in and make roughly the same power? Are they really detuned or messed about with? Should I keep my box or are the ratios the same? Forget the full obd2 conversion as for now I just want it back on the road. Cheers

Right I posted on here a few weeks a go after my engine seriously overheated, The final verdict is it was a serious failure!! I have warped the head and melted the pistons so the engine's a write off, what I need to know is other then a coilpack 2.9 VR6 engine what options do I have, excluding then the worthwhile but complicated obd2 conversion as I'm not about to start fabricating looms etc. I already have a coilpacked 2.9 race-spec head waiting to go on and some schimmell cams so the top half should put a smile on my face but I'm stuck with the bottom half. If I'm keeping my loom, ecu, alternator, etc etc then what bottom end would drop straight into what I've got. I don't mind having a 2.8 bottom end as I'm pretty sure it's only 69cc's smaller so I doubt I'd even notice and they are infinately easier and cheaper to find. Alternatively if I sell the head could I drop a complete obd1 2.8 in with ease? I just want the cheapest and easiest option to get my sorely missed VR back on the road without letting too many horses out the stables, any rock solid advice would be massively appreciated.

unfortunately I'm in Dorset so decent vw specialists are pretty thin on the ground, I'm pretty stuck as to what to do. Does anybody know what actually gives the rado 16bhp over the early golfs other then the inlet manifold?

Absoluely gutted as it had a low milage replacement when I got it and I've only had it a few months but such is life. Toyed with the idea of buying another one and building a perfect example but mine's pretty mint as it is so I'm thinking just sorting the engine out. Not 100% on what's actually wrong with it other then the fact it sufferred from severe overheating and now wont start, turns over with a really horrible metal sound and the oil smells like it's been bbq'd. It's going to need at least a new head I would've thought as mine will be super warped along with all the relevent gaskets etc. Think I've done the piston rings too but it's hard to tell without checking compression etc. Do you think maybe I'm being a touch hasty? Has anyone else managed to bring one back easily enough from this kind of state? Also if I'm looking to buy a new head are they all the same when stripped bare? golf/rado...obd1/2...coil pack/dizzy?

Right I'm trying to be positive about the fact my engine is dead, coolant hose split, water went everywhere and I didn't catch it in time. What I want to know is what engine can I pop straight in? Mine was a coil pack Vr6. Obviously an identical one will work but what about the 2.8's, I can't be dealing with the hassle of a full obd2 conversion even though I know this is the way forward but can I just use the head and block easy enough and not lose power? Will a 2.8 obd1 drop straight in and if so what can I do to make it Corrado power? I just want the cheapest and easiest fix with power in the 190 region, I also have some schimmel cams waiting to go in just to confuse matters. Whats going to be the best overall set up without messing about with wiring etc? I've tried using the search but when people start talking about looms etc my eyes glaze over and I start dribbling P.S if anyone has a 2.9 sitting around then I'm extremely interested

I've got one of those real carbon ones off ebay, little bit boy racer but it matches my bmc so I hope I get away with it, looks much nicer then a bare messy battery.

Yeah I saw those, I'd be all over them in a shot but it's an end of the month payday kinda situation I'm in. If they're still about then I'll be joining Cam club definately.

Ok all good stuff, thanks for the info. Look's like if I'm going to do it I might as well get it done properly and go for 268's then, I saw those John Dougherty ones so I'm pretty tempted. Thanks for the heads-up on the Giac chip too, I'll check before jumping in both feet first. Just desperately wan't to get close to the 220bhp mark so I can tell cossie owners to get a life and buy something more refined 8)