bananawhip

When I lived on the south coast (Weymouth) I bought my VR from a fellow forum member in Newcastle as I knew it was the right car, the 6 hour drive home was just an excuse to have some fun and get to know it a little better. As far as engine stuff goes just make sure the history is bullet proof, most OBD1 lumps have been around for a while now so be sure to go through it with a fine tooth comb. VR's are notoriously hot running so keeping it cool is a must, check for head gasket's, water pumps, temp switches etc, buying a tidy example with an oil cooler already installed isn't a bad idea, or fit your own if you plan on keeping it a while. Not massively technical but just my 2 pennies :)

Thanks for the reply Dinkus it really is appreciated. I was dreading a reply that told me to do anything like that but you've made it sound really simple, I'm much more comfortable bolting, riviting, grinding, and drilling stuff rather then this wiring business but after your post I'm sure I can't go far wrong. Those Rainbows look well worth the money too, I'll get on the case and report back Thanks again :clap:

Right here's the challenge, I have just bought some Audioscape pods from the recent eBay listing, I am really not massively bothered by audio as I'm a bit more of an engine man but mine is currently an absolute joke! Which speakers would you buy if you were looking to replace dash, door (16.5's) and rears, 100% can't be bothered to fit an amp, crossovers, rewire stuff, cut stuff up, etc etc I know it's the way to go but I just want it sounding nicer then it does now. I'm thinking... Dash, Infinity 4022i 10cm...would these fit, wire in easy? Audioscape pods, Infinity 6522i's Rears, JBL GTO 6x4's, I'm not completely against som Infinity 9623i 6x9's though if they would help. Would these all work together? No splicing wires etc I've done loads or searching but I just want someone who knows what they're talking about to help me out, I'm a few days away from buying it and I don't know my componants from my coaxiels so I think some costly mistakes are on the horizon :help: :help: :help: :help: :help:

I used to have that JVC so I'm a bit of a fan, if you do get shot of it then I'd be interested, drop me a PM or something

Alright Mikey boy, kept this one quiet, fancy giving me a little run for my money do ya :D Go for something with at least a ko3s turbo or better still a ko4, don't bother with a ko3 as you'll be starting with a handicap already..good luck with it bro'

Cool beans cheers for that, A million other things to worry about so having a full set of wheels is reassuring :)

yep they're alloy so I'll torque them to the standard figure, don't know what that is off the top of your head do you? I normally do it by feel also I was lucky that my adaptors came with the bolts and nuts needed so I didn't have to worry, only thing that did nearly catch me out is apparently boxters have different wheel nuts to the rest of the Porsche range, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along soon though to tell you more accurately

I've recently fitted Porsche rims using 5x130 25mm adaptors, only problem is I now have no idea what the torque setting is for not only the wheels (using 19mm nuts) but also the 17mm bolts that hold the adaptors to the hubs..any ideas? Going to the ring in a week so I'd really rather not be overtaken by one of my own wheels when I hit the carousel for the first time

I'm really not too sure mate to be honest, Tom's car had no ABS so it was never a problem. As for the fusebox again it's a bit of a mystery to me. I know the wiring was more of a chore then the actual fitting of the engine, a fair amount of work involved so good luck with it

A friend of mine and member on this site (tombell999) has literally just finished dropping an obd2 into his KR, I've driven it and it's a good conversion. I'd try him for any parts queries etc as I know he had to source a few random bits he didn't think he'd need.

Nope, you need the front hoses from a 95> Golf mk3

Think you just answered your own question there :) Fact of the matter is that there's a good reason why a lot of us with VR's have ditched the standard brakes..they are useless at dealing with speeds that 190bhp+ brings. If 300bhp is the plan then you'd be looking at getting something pretty special. If you run 5x100 hubs or adapters then it opens up a lot, I know you said you'd like to keep 4x100 but when you can pick up 312mm upgrades these days for under £100 it's got to be a viable option Saying that though it's amazing what a decent set of pads, discs, fluid, hoses, and a proper bleed will do

Little pic to show you how little room you have to play with, with the 288's and 15's combo... brakes.jpg[/attachment:k6253pch]

Thanks again for the advice Easy, there's kids reading this :)

Just a heads up with the 288mm conversion, it's made a huge difference over standard to mine but don't think all 15's are safe. On my Speedlines and Teledials the balance weights catch the calipers so you have a tiny amount of room to play with, not all 15's will fit. I'm running Goodridge hoses, 5.1 fluid, 40 groove CRN discs, and the new version red stuff pads and it absolutely batters the standard 280's, big big improvement.

Cool beans cheers for that, knew somebody would know. If the oil cooler cover is that plate a bit bigger then the size of a pringles lid, that the extension bar screws into when fitting a mocal then that's the one I'm after, pretty sure I gave it a right armful so I've probably squashed the seals :?

Sorry for yet another boring post but does anybody know the torque setting for the oil cap bit the holds oil/water exchange (or in my case mocal sandwhich plate on) Mine seems to be leaking a bit and I'm not sure if i've done it up too tight or the opposite Muchos Grazias

So it's not an exact science? My recommended dipstick levels are now irrelevent? Only reason I ask is that I'm going to the 'Ring in a month without a baffled sump so oil levels are extremely important. Bit worried about over filling it too as I don't want to blow a hole in the block etc :help:

Seamed the logical place and I'm lazy so it was nice and easy :) One question though if anyone can help, I filled mine up as a bit of a guestimate, it seems spot on with the engine running (a bit below max) but when I check it from cold I now have far too much in the sump, is this an issue? My cooler is mounted upside down so it probably struggles to keep oil in but I didn't expect it to just all run out when it's turned off. Has anybody got any idea what I should be looking for on my dipstick when the car has sat and the engine hasn't been run?

I'm still yet to map mine after fitting the SP's but the difference is day and night, really has turned it from being a smooth motorway mile muncher into a right Peperami... They're so good I've been tempted for a while now to buy a cheap Sharan VR, Strip it, and drop some 263's in to have a bit of a random sleeper, I'm sure I'll get over that obsession soon though :cuckoo:

Finished mine yesterday and it took just over a ltr of oil to top it back up. Managed to fit it to a high standard by removing just the grill and NS headlight, didn't even need to get under it, if anyone has one to fit then let me know and I'll give you my little run through cooler.jpg[/attachment:20r3fcei]

Just buy a massive separate tacho with a buzzer and a huge red torch strapped to the side which blinds you everytime its time to shift, seen some dude in a standard corsa with one the other day, just wanted to crash in to him to end his misery

If I'm honest and without sounding like a bodger does it actually matter? Only because Gruvenparts give you the option to blank it off on the crackpipe which I've pretty much done with my poo pipework, I know it's much nicer to have it as it should be but will it make a blind bit of notice of no water gets through? If I had easy access I wouldn't be so desperate to not have to do it again. Also out of interest what's wrong with Jubilee clips? I always dump spring clips for them if I'm doing a job as I thought they were more secure...Have I been living a lie? :brickwall:

All looks very neat, main reason I was trying to avoid doing something like that is because I have very little space. Believe it or not I've managed to get as far as I have with the manifold, bumper, slam panal etc in place. I've found a cheeky angle that gives you just enough room to work with by laying on top of the engine, I might take a photo of me doing it then copyright it, sell it to Mocal or something :)

Well as it stands I've fitted my cooler, hoses, and sandwhich plate, binned the factory cooler and connected up the hoses, I'm all ready to turn the key really but I doubt much water will flow through my bypass. Only because I didn't want to cut the pipes so it's easier to return to OEM. They're pretty kinked but if no water actually needs to pass through then I suppose it makes no odds. Just to double check then I'm good to go? Or is it better to fabricated a better bypass hose? Sorry to ask again just overly cautious now :camp: