GusPW

I'll take a couple of sets if there is another batch. If it all works out for first batch that is.

I'll take the lower bumper splash guard Cheers

Hi, do you have the bit of loom that goes from fuse box to headlight switch? (and in good condition with no sign of short circuit damage) Cheers

Payment sent Cheers

Put me down for 2 sets. Cheers

I'd also like one of these once your new batch arrives.

Vince at stealth racing fitted A nissan radiator (can't remember details) to mine last year. He said it was a good quality alternative and a straight swap. Needle sits bang on 100 deg all the time eccept occstionally going slightly higher in traffic on particularily hot days. Only thing I did notice was the highest fan setting seems to come on more often than it used to. edit: actually sits at 90 deg, just noticed I'd read gauge wrong

I got a Bosch silver plus (S5 I think) from costco for about £50. Has plenty of CCA's (cold cranking amps, around 700ish) which is what you want in a starting battery, anywhere around or above 600 is good (I think the VR6 spec states a lot less). That and good shiny-clean terminals and connections helps it turn over faster in cold weather as there is always lots of power available to the starter motor.

I know!! It was funny! Just wish I had the readies to go straight to turbo but hey ho, one day!! What were you having done?? Just essentials so nothing exiting! Service that turned into a £1300 service :gag: . New radiator and exhaust plus some other bits n pieces. Car was standard but cost of VW exhaust versus jetex exhaust (£800 fitted or £360 fitted :cuckoo: ) has forced me down the modified path. Now i keep wondering what what a schrick is like!!

saw your car at stealth when I was picking up mine on Saturday. Was looking good mate. liked the production line going on there, turbo kit replacing supercharger on one green storm, supercharger fitted straight into another green storm! :cheers:

Sounds like you might have the very common VR6 stalling problem.(search the forum for it and you'll find lots of advice) Mine has done this (only when engine is hot) since I bought it but it got really bad last year when it would quietly stall at almost every junction. Stealth racing sorted it last time I took it up there by slightly increasing the throtle angle at idle. It seems like the power steering goes but in reality it stalls so quietly that you simply notice the steering getting heavy before noticing that the engine has stopped. I'm sure someone else with more technical knowledge will be able to tell you exactly why this happens (or correct me) but the way I understand it the engine management, for some reason, cant keep up with the change in engine speed and doesnt get enough air into the engine as it drops to idle speed. If this is the problem then the following might solve it; Check for cracks/leaks in the air intake between the MAF and the throttle body ISV may be sticking - try cleaning it out with carb cleaner (remember to lubricate it after with WD40) If ISV is faulty you could replace it but the price is ridiculous, the alternantive is to do what stealth did to mine (see above). If that doesn't work the next step that stealth suggested was to remap the ECU with a slightly higher idle speed, this will trick the ISV to sit at a different angle at idle. Some people suggest that the MAF could be the problem, there are some posts that suggest cleaning the wire inside with contact cleaner spay. I wouldn't go buying MAF's or ISV's unless you know for definate that it is the problem though, as with most VR6 issues you could spend a lot of money and be no better off for it. If you know someone who has a VR6 with no stalling problems you could try swapping MAF or ISV for a bit and see if the problem goes away. Hope this helps

I think there is one more screw underneath the grab handle, but you have to take the grab handle off to see it

I got quoted a silly price by the dealers so went to Partco autoparts and got 6 NGK (BKR5EKU) plugs for £21 all in. :) And they hold them in stock (Halfords didn't)

I have checked all conections and they are all fine. I have driven it around a couple of times and very roughly followed the procedure for re-learning sensor values and the engine is back to normal (i.e. lumpy idle and mid rev range) which is why I thought I must have disconected the ECU, but I also read that there is no point doing the procedure unless you then do the basic setings procedure on VAGCOM. Is it worth me doing the VAGCOM stuff now or does it need to be done soon after doing the ECU reset? Hi Dr_Mat Is there any chance I could pop over to your work sometime this week to use your VAGCOM, I need to wipe my fault codes as I will have generated a load by unplugging things.

Oops! yea forgot to say, its a 94 VR6 (but with early type MAF). Well if loosing those learnt values didn't cause backfiring then I dont know what else it could be. I disconnected the TPS, ISV and Plug leads 3 & 5 from the coilpack to get access. but I'm pretty sure I put them back on properly! Any ideas?

I disconected the 3 earth points on the engine (underneath the ISV) the other day to clean the connections (ignition problems). After reconecting everything I took it for a drive and it felt quite good in 1st and 2nd, but then backfired like mad in 3rd and 4th. Backfiring has pretty much stopped now but it did start doing in 5th when going down the motorway. Have I managed to disconnect the ECU and wipe the settings? If so is there anyone in the Reading or surrounding area with VAGCOM who would be willing (and has the time?) to help me with the reset procedure? I've never done it before so dont know how long it takes. I need to sort it out so I can drive down to Wales on Friday! Any help would be much appreciated

I'm afraid I don't quite understand the point in posting pictures like this, it say's nothing about car safety. As many have said, no car would win a fight with a lorry, the engine alone would stop most cars. The ncap test is performed at 40mph for frontal impact and 30mph for side impact, they don't test at higher speeds becouse all the cars would look pretty much like that. I guess if they could make a car that would remain intact at 60+ mph then the seatbelt would quarter the passengers anyway!! So..IMHO the pictures of severed bodies only serve to traumatize the family and friends of the poor guy (admitedly its an outside chance) if they happen to stumble on it, or entertain peoples morbid facination. Just my opinion!

I'll take one. PM me details

Quick question, I'm Currently cleaning my ISV and Throtle Body on my VR6 (both filthy!), Is it safe to remove the TB without a replacement gasket or is it likely to break?

standard positions worked for me but I found my new tweeters were too bright unless I angled them away from the windscreen glass to prevent the sound bouncing off, but this was easy as they are Rainbow ones that you just push to what ever angle you feel like untill it sounds right.

Mine are mounted in the hole using bits of mechano to bridge the gap. Speaker grills then fit on top, there is even room to angle them in towards the centre of the car and away from the windscreen.

I found that it wasn't too hard to get out if you remove the stereo + cage, and the ashtray. But I could see it is very easy to break the plastic when removing the clips, not a problem when I did it as the plastic was already broken (which was the reason I was removing it!). I have now reinforced all the plastic bits where the clips attach using bits of metal from a computer case,some very small nuts and bolts, some epoxy putty, and a spare evening. Looks like frankinstein but it is now much stronger than it ever was and has been working fine for 4 months (and you cant see the repair when its fitted). Went back in quite easily but had to attach the clips using pliers to prevent putting too much force on the plastic (hard to explain!).

I've found a lot of companies have recently changed policy and will only deliver to the address at which the payment card is registered. Trouble is most have not updated their websites and still offer an alternative delivery address :roll: I have also found this extreemly inconvenient :mad:

Oil looks pretty clean and I know it was changed in September last year so was putting off crawling underneath it untill the weather was slightly less damp :oops: . Cheers for the advise, I'll top it up with synta silver untill I get some free time during daylight!

I bought my VR just before Xmas but I dont know what oil was used at its last oil change (its not in any of the records and the last owner did not change it as he only owned it for 3 months). So.... What type of oil should I use to top it up?. Is there any combination of oil that would cause problems? ie mixing fully sinthetic with mineral.