Laughingboy

Woke up to some great news this morning, some little retard tried to nick my stereo by tanning in my passenger window but obviously being of reduced brain power couldn't actually remove the thing. instead he managed to knock the faceplate into the drivers footwell and the surround into the back of the car! left the unit hanging out by about an inch, way to go muppet! So guess who spent all day removing glass from god knows where out of the VR?! I just couldn't believe how far it managed to spread itself! Anyhow, just a note to everyone... after spending a small fortune on a decent headunit with a removable face plate... its a good idea to remove it once in a while!! :oops: Just thought, should write up a guide to changing the windows out as it was no mean feat I can tell you!!

Just a quick one to say thanks to Bigpantsbaby. A top guy to deal with, I'm delighted with the car. A nice touch was dropping me a text after a few weeks to make sure everything was going well. Thanks again. :)

Could be done I reckon, I ran mk mk1 cabbie on these same wheels even lower! If you changed the 90mm spoiler and lobbed on some coilovers you could get it on the floor! It'd have to be a valver though as you'd never get them over g60 or VR brakes

These shots were taken with my old suspension on which I think was -60mm ish lower on koni rear shocks and unknown fronts... a real mish mash!! I only ran it for a while like this out of curiosity and nessecity as the old alloys were the most buckled set of wheels I've ever come across!! They fairly put the speedo out but the acceleration was brisk to say the least!! of course with the wheels being so small it put it even lower then normal. It nows run nice boring 15" alloys and -40mm weitec shocks and springs. well... no for too much longer as it'll soon be up for sale as its been joined by its bigger brother, a nice shiney VR!

Well 15mm front spacers and 20mm rear help... as well as nasty old 256mm Valver brakes!!

Been meaning to post these up for a while... Ever wondered what a corrado would look like on 14's? Well I ran my rather beaten up old rad on 8 and 9x14 RH cups off my mk1 for a laugh a while back, I'll let the pics do the talking but I thought it looked kinda cool!

Ok fella, well depending on if the sale goes through I'll be in touch mate.

Would you be interested in parting with them springs if I buy this VR I'm interested in? Take it there the 40mm drop ones as I couldn't see any others on the site. Thanks for the info as well on the top mounts. That'll come in very handy! :thumb right:

I've got a quick question, looking at buying a VR just now. I recently purchased a set of weitec GT's for my 91 valver and was wondering if they would fit the VR. the only difference I can see is the part number for the springs but I'm unsure if this is to do with spring rate or a different spring for the VR's top mounts. I'm assuming its spring rate due to the heavier VR block as I'm sure I've read on here that the VR weitecs need the old style top mounts but I could be wrong. Just want to know if they'll fit straight on, as I'll have both stlye of top mounts as the 16v will be broken for parts. Or if I'll need to order the spring by themselves from weitec and reuse the dampers. Also which mounts will I need to use. Any weitec owners shed some light on this for me please.

My advice is avoid, eveything I've ever driven with spax has been horrid! Go for weitec Ultra GT's with a 40mm drop. Got them on the Valver and can't speak their praises highly enough. good cheap setup that doesn't comprise the ride, got to be a winner!

I too have the Weitec stuff on my valver and can't recommend them enough. got mine from Halfords as my good lady wife works there for a fantastic £200 notes (With discount for staff) and arrived quick sharp. I went for a sensible 40mm drop and the ride is perfect for a budget set up and sorted my very knackered and tired suspension. Also the plates on the rear shocks appear to be adjustable if thats any help.

£700??!! :shock: Holy pope on a push bike! that seems awfully expensive! I replaced my own in a day, not a hard job at all to be honest. The rado's dash is surprisingly easy to remove and so long as your careful its no drama.

Joys of my job my friend, joys of my job! working away from home 6 days a week and doing 12hr shifts isn't helping the poor old thing much! :( Anyhow, stop wagging that finger Yan :nono: and get back in that garage and finish that project! :wink: :tongue:

Problem solved and one to bear in mind... I had to put it in for an MOT and the old boy there recognized the noise straight away. It was crap in the sump blocking the oil feed thus starving oil to the head and the chain tensioner, thus the racket. well an engine flush and two oil changes later and all is well and something to bear in mind for any other valver owners. Moral of the story... change ya oil more often!! :oops:

Sounds like your making progress mate, I'll have to try and come and see it how its looking when I can when work isn't grinding me into the dust! When do you think you'll be able to get it running? Close or miles off?

Cheers for that, super handy! 8)

Just put my poor old Corrado in for its mot and think I've achieved a first... It failed on every possible bit of the brakes! :? All the pads, every disc, every brake line and all the rear flexi hoses! Oh and rear bias thingy is jammed as well! :( 2 bloody pages of brake failures! Bugger! Anyhow, this was just a quick post for a good old moan but also to ask if anyone knows the bleed order for the corrado. Its a 91 1.8 kr if that makes any difference. Cheers

:? Bugger... why do I feel a rebuild coming on here. I've got to do the tappets and timing belt anyway so I can check for wear then. think I'll replace the oil pump as well as a "just in case" How hard are these camshaft bearings to do? Is it just a case of buying and fitting or is it more involved then that? Cheers for the help.

Sounds like you've been playing with that new tool chest to much to me! :wink: Let me know if you want the top bit to match! hang on... no! you'll never finish then! :lol:

As I said at the time I think you have worn/loose camshaft bearing caps, get the rocker cover off and have a looksie. Remember you saying mate, not sure how to check if they are worn though short of seeing if there is any play in the camshaft... Is this an easy fix?

Defiantly not tappets, there were already noisy and on the sort list! This rattle is far louder and more random then tappets. Hard to describe really, sounds kinda like nails in a tin! :shock:

Right guys got a problem that I need some help with. Notice a substantial rattle coming from the Rado the other day. As I was on the way to Yans I thoguht I'd get a second set of ears to it so I let him have a listen as well. I originally thought it could be the timing chain, but after me and Yan had a good listen the noise is coming from all over the head and not just one side. Yan reckoned the chain was ok. The car is a 1991 1.8 16v KR, around 110k and had a hard life from the previous owner. It right across the rev range and doesn't change when the engine has warmed up. I'm finally back from working in the south of France for 3 weeks (Yeah... a real pain but someone has to do it!) So its time to take the rocker cover off and have a nose. My question is, has anyone had this problem before or have any suggestions as to what to check as this will hopefully save me some time when I get the tools out! I'm thinking camshaft problems but as to how to fix this or check, I'm unsure. Any advise would be great.

Come on Yan, Finger out mate! Any more progress to report? :lol:

It can be bit of a fiddle but with a foot pump, I'm lucky as I have a bleed nipple from a mk1 cabby which has a large head that locks nicely into a tire valve thingy. I then put me thumb over the flexi pipe hole. a couple of pumps and hey presto, out comes the piston. If you have an assistant you can easy just hold the thing hard with you hand over the bleed nipple hole and block the other. it doesn't need much. You can do it on the car too if its really tough to remove obviously re-attaching it and pumping the brake pedel but you risk losing masses of fluid and making a real mess too! :lol: As for your pin, I think the same ones are use on the 256mm brakes too but I could be wrong (someone fancy checking etka?) you'll find them on pretty much any VAG motor running Girling brakes on the front.

If the Caliper appears seized, before you rush out and replace it just replace the seals as they are very cheap from VAG. Pinch the flexi hose (I use a set of mole grips with some hose pipe over the ends) to block the flow and remove the caliper. Use a foot pump to blow out the piston, the outer dust cover will need to be prised off before it pops out. inspect the piston for any corrosion, depending on the severity you can sometimes remove any light rust with emery cloth but you need to polish it nice and smooth. use some discretion Prise out the old seals and replace with the new ones. the dust cover can be a real shite to do but will go eventually. Sit back and admire your nice new caliper!