drunkenmunkey

Just thought I'd post this really useful site http://www.vagcat.com/

As above really and will a Golf VR6 exhaust fit? Wasn't there a change to the hanger at some point? I'm still after a standard exhaust [cheap] and have seen one on 'the bay' that looks alright and would appreciate it if anyone knows if it would fit. By the by I don't think I've ever spent this much on a car in my life, why am I doing this :D Thanks

That's brilliant, thanks guys, I'll ask Weitec about the spring rates and if I get anything in return I'll post it.

Hi I've just purchased a lovely Weitec GT kit for my VR6, my question is as above really....I'm running 17s & would like to keep them on but want to retain as much comfort as possible and I keep seeing posts for a 'comfort' set up with different top mounts & bump stops........Can anyone shed some light on this?? Any input is much appreciated Thanks!

I've relatively recently done this but I just unbolted the front and rear engine mounts and jacked up the engine, once there I removed the coil pack and that gave me plenty of access. Worth doing once you've got the crack pipe off is scraping and sanding the 'socket' in the block that the left hand end sits in, I kept fitting it and the bugger kept weaping until I sussed that it was a build up of rust around the lip - you'll see what I mean when you do it.

Just a quicky.............. will a golf diesel rear engine mount fit [& work] on a VR6? I can see threads for the gearbox mount but not rear engine mount :? Any help much appreciated! Thanks!

:shock: That's shocking,I live in Stirling, I'll keep an eye out

Hi They should be pretty much the same as far as I know, although I'm not familiar with GSF stuff, EuroCarParts stock BOGE OE items at about £30 each. By the way if the old exhaust has no holes in it I would be interested in buying it.

The R.A.B.s were a complete b#stard, well actually to be more specific the laying on the floor under a gap of 45cm with years worth of road dirt falling on me was a b#stard, otherwise it was OK I just took my time & did over a weekend. On the Friday I jacked her up scrubbed everything down with a wire brush, then took a plumbers torch to the nut of the brake regulator mounting [being VERY careful to avoid all hoses lines etc], this seemed to work quite well, I sprayed freezing spray on the bolts and they came off OK, they were knackered by the time they came off but at least they came off. On Saturday, I took the beam out, I just cut the brake lines as I was changing them anyway, this made undoing the unions easier IMO, I have a local friendly garage who pushed the old ones out & stuck the new ones in for £30. I've read that you can just drill out the rubbers & then carefully hacksaw the metal surround until it gives & then whack them out using a hammer & a length of copper pipe [or something else softer than the beam metal]. Then back on went the beam, regulator, brake lines & bit & bobs, bleed the brakes & there you are. The worst bits were definitely the brake regulator, you have to be very careful not strip the bolt heads otherwise you could drill it out maybe? Once dissconnected moving the pipes was tricky [again the plumbers torch came in handy] and supporting the axle when taking off & putting on was a bit of a fiddle. I just printed out the guide on Wiki which made life MUCH easier, the Bently manual is pretty pants. Is this something you're planning? From the pics it looks as though your cars a beaut', can't see what else would need doing to it :)

Just thought I'd share this, bored at work and all....I changed the suspension 1st & took the car out for test & ride was vastly improved [running 17inch rims], firm but supple, I put on Weitecs GT kit because they were cheap but seem good quality. Then I changed the R.A.B.s and what a difference! Admitedly it took me a while to do & the council may well have been out & resurfaced the road in the time it took me to get the brake regulator off :oops: but the car feels tight like a new car, no crashing or banging.....to anyone looking to improve the ride of their C have a look at changing these first before spending loads of cash on suspension....this is probably old news to most of you but to me it's a revalation, no more shaking2: I'm off out the play on the country roads..........................

Agreed 2cm is a lot! :shock: Is that from the outer extent of the wheel or inner & is that with hands at 'half past twelve' or 'quarter to three? If it's 'half past twelve' it could be a worn upper shocker mounting and possibly worn axle bushes. If it's 'quarter to three' definitely sound like the bearings I would suggest getting them out & replacing them or at least regreasing & nipping up the nut, the Bently manual states, rather ambiguously, that they should be tightened with enough slack to allow movement of the washer with a scredriver without levering it. Hope it helps, good luck... :)

Hi, suprised you haven't picked up anything on the search the ISV is a regular cause of stalling. Anyway, it's very simple you loosen the clip to the damper - the black plastic 'box' with 2 pipes on it, [it's been a while so it may be some other fixing] remove it, un plug the connection at the base of the ISV and then just slide the iSV out of it's rubber sleeve. To clean it get a plastic bag/jiffy bag [whatever it'll fit into], put it in, then submerge in contact cleaner from Maplin, soak for 5-10mins, shake it vigorously, remove. Then drown it in silicone lube & put it back. Et voila! rock solid idle...theoretically :) Good luck

What he said :) Good luck with it

Your VR6 will still have a coil pack just not a distributor & coil pack combined. If faulty the coil will miss and hesitate when under load [heavy acceleration] as the high tension [HT] circuit comes under more load and shows up weakenness in the coil as more 'spark' is required. Before you go off buying sensors I would definitely check this first, VWs are known for weak coils and in my experience always go.

That's an awesome post :salute: and something I've been toying with the idea of pretty much since I bought my C. Thanks Cheesewire :thumbleft:

I feel your pain, I has exactly the same problem for ages only to find that the PCV breather pipe had a split, I glued it with suger glue & it's cured the problem :? It only ever happened when hot and was completely random. Hope it helps

Sounds like a bust differential IMHO

My grand plan involves pretty much everything, 1st thing is bushes suspension etc then stick in some ATP head bolts & metal gasket & 'charge it :twisted: Where the money's coming from I don't know, but I sat down with my wife yesterday and looked at moving to houses with nice big garages :D

Just back inside after a week of on/off not-so-straight forward DIY on my C - had a pin hole leak in the oil cooler to drain water pipe so thought I'd do a wobbly engine mount as well - that's it! So after a week and....a new water pipe which broke the 'crack pipe' on fitting..3 days for new one...new crack pipe which broke the thermostat housing on fitting..1 day wait...HURRAY all back together with some grinding away of rust at water pump end of the block....engine mounts all in...retighten all mount bolts to Bentley spec' torques & BANG fuggin bolt shears inside my lovely new front mount.. :mad2: :roll: Still love her though :? Anyway, I was wondering who else has had similar experiences & what they were... 'tis all part of the fun of Corrado owning I guess, we all must have a masochistic streak :)

Could just be a knackered battery? My wifes Polo did exactly the same thing, would only hold charge for a couple of days, changed it and it's fine now. Good luck

Would it not be wiser to invest the money towards a GTI?

Sorry if it's been asked a thousand times but will these fit a Corrado VR6? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... &rd=1&rd=1 Thanks :)

Brilliant it even has a fitment guide page :) 'twas easy enough as you say, I just unbolt the front mount, jacked up the engine, removed one thermostat pipe to let it be moved & undid the 3 bolts, pulled the 'crack pipe' from each end & it's out! Really wasn't expecting it to be that easy - new stainless one on order. Thanks ziderapple :D

:( Bloody drainage pipe cracked when I removed a leaking oil cooler pipe :oops: . Do anyone know how remove it? Any help MUCH appreciated

Nope, they never issued one, 'tis a right pain. You can get a Bently manual which covers the american spec but it's pricey, I think there's others but I have no experience of them - search the threads it must be in there somewhere. :) Good Luck