Ady_G

Yes, the VR6 sailed though an MOT with no work needed again. I'd at least expect the VR6 to chuck a bit more monoxide into the enviroment, but the emissions were all way under. This is the only car I've ever had to ace an MOT, nevermind 3 consecutive tests in a row in just over 3 years. Long live the VR6 Ady

Shell optimax is 98 ron as recomended on the inside of the fuel filler flap, it will run on 95 ron normal unleaded, but isn't quite as responsive. But don't go to supermarkets for fuel I always use optimax Cheers and have fun with the VR6 Ady

Mine was reading about 12.2 on the multimeter and it still wouldn't start, shouldn't it read nearer 14V? I realised the battery wasn't holding it's charge so I replaced it. Cheers Ady

It was my alternative choice to a Corrado VR6 when shopping for cars just over 3 years ago. They always got good write ups in any of the car mags coupe tests, being almost as good as a VR6, but alway losing out slightly on steering feel. In the end I went for a Corrado because most of the Prelude VTECs in my area were automatic grey imports with tinted windows, over-sized novelty spoilers, and massive exhausts. To top it off my mate at work had a K plate one that all the 4WS, clutch and ECUs packed up at the same time. That put me off! Cost him £2500 to fix a £3500 car! I still quite like them though..... Ady PS And I burned someone off in a new one, so I'm sticking with the VR6

Hey kebabman My VR6 does the same, mainly fouling 1 & 6 plugs, last time it was plug 6 but it takes about 5000 miles or about 10-12 months for it to get fouled up. Last time I just cleaned them with a spark plug cleaner. I am suspecting worn valve stem seals as a very rare puff of smoke on idle or down change can be seen, similar to what you describe. I also found Shell Helix or VW Quantum Silver lasts a lot longer than GTX, my VR6 drank GTX. At the mo the car runs fine in everyway, so I'm a bit reluctant to spend a £1000 on a head rebuild to save a bit on plugs, which I normally replace every 12 months anyway. Cheers Ady

No worries, hope you get it sorted and it's not too expensive. Good luck

Also I was always told saloons were better for ICE installs as the boot acts like a base box. Even with only a pair of 6 x 9s in the small parcel shelf of a Cav SRi Mk 3 saloon I used to have, the base was really good.

I'd consider one of these actually, might be changing jobs soon and will need a commuter car instead of moutain bike, still want to hang on to the VR6 through. Although my mate picked up a 95k mile 110TDi Bora for about £4 grand, he's spent another £350 on a re-chip and it's pretty good. I don't know if the Bora suspension set up is different to the Golf, but I had a good trash round in the Bora and had no real complaints at all. Cheers Ady

Hi Jon Sorry for the delay, just got back from a 2 week holiday, I left very early on the 18th of April, hence the late response. I have got my old engine speed sensor which is up for grabs if you still need it, although you may have sorted it now. Let me know if you still need it. Cheers Ady

jonrb, you may have seen this thread from a couple of weeks ago http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21449 I thought my VR6 had a engine speed sensor failure, then immobiliser problems, but it was the ignition switch in the end. Might be worth checking because they are only £15 (ish), compared to more expensive sensors. Hope you get it working. Ady

Thought about that actually, but I paid someone £20 to change it and it looked one tricky job to do, I don't fancy doing it myself. I might give the old one a polish though and stick that on ebay instead, a 12 year old 122k mile engine speed sensor has to be worth something to someone, specially on ebay.

Just picked the VR6 up, it was the ignition switch after all. I'm gutted that I got bad advise and ended up buying an engine speed sensor when I didn't have to, but you live and learn. Just glad to have it back and running, I'm not annoyed with it and wont be selling it now. Glad you got yours going dav, cheers for the advise everyone, off down the boozer the celebrate (not with the car). Cheers Ady

Dav & Reggit, it's depressing isn't it! I've been driving the birds Rover 214, at least the VR6 will feel like the fastest car ever when I finally get it back. kevhaywire, the alarm is a quality Sigma properly fitted by Car Electronics (CEL) in Leicester - great place, no problems or false alarms with it in 2 years, so I reckon it's the ignition. I think the fuel is getting through and you can hear the fuel pump prime. But after spending £150 on a engine speed sensor and it not fixing it, I've left it with a VW specialist cos I don't want to waste more money on bits I don't need. But the problem with garages is they sometimes can't be bothered to do a bit of fault finding, time is money and all that, so if the computer doesn't come up with anything they blame the alarm! I told them about the live from the ignition to the stereo suddenly not working, but I've left it with them. I'll let you lads know when I find the answer. Cheers Ady

Looks like you were right dr_mat, I'd already bought the sensor so I had it fitted and no joy. In the middle of a debate at the moment, mechanics blaming alarms, alarm installers blaming the ignition system. I'm inclined to believe the alarm installers because the ignition live to the stereo doesn't come on now, and the alarm only immobilises the starter motor and fuel pump (I think), so if it turns and doesn't fire it can't be that. The car was recovered to the garage anyway, but there not sure what to do with it at the moment. Gutted, been without a VR6 for 2 weeks now! Ady

Cheers for the help guys, I got someone that will fit it for me now. I'm a bit worried about the possibility that it may not be the engine speed sensor because it's arriving on Saturday, and if I spent a ridiculous £140 on something I didn't even need I'm going to be gutted! I already feel robbed at having to pay that, and as a result I'm thinking of selling the VR6 once it's running. But it was running a bit rough before it refused to start, it felt like slight erratic rises and drops in power, all the plugs, ht leads, distributer are newish. I will just have to wait and see and hope it runs once the sensor is changed. Cheers Ady

That really annoys me, this place is getting more like the USA every day! It's an infringement on your personal liberties, they should only be concerned with your ability to perform and do the job. Ady

My VR6 hasn't started in over a week now, had to call out a mobile auto electrician with diagnostics kit last Saturday which said it was the engine speed sensor. The engine turns but doesn't spark. Been waiting all week for him to get the sensor and come round and fit it for me, but it seems to be taking a long time. Had a look on related topics, shocked at the £140 charge for one, but is it an easy job to swap one over? I got a rough idea where it's located but not 100% sure. I have just hurt my ribs and back and don't really fancy lying under cars or spending hours bent over the engine trying fiddley tasks. Cheers Ady

I might invest in a one of those Bosch batteries, I got a Halfords branded one that is in the kitchen being charged up - again

Think I read somewhere it can be done without removing the head, but it is easier with the head off. It was on a topic on the forumn somewhere. I need to do this to my VR6, but I wasn't going to attempt it myself, I've not got a garage to work in not to mention the time required. Good luck anyway mate. Cheers Ady

I needed some new plugs in a hurry and had to resort to using the main dealer, who told me the recomended plugs for a VR6 were now NGK platinums at £8 each. I said I normally had standard and went to Halfords to double check, who came back with the same answer, only charging £10 each! In the end I went back to the dealer, who did give me Club GTI discount (without me asking! even though Im not in Club GTI). I don't mind paying a extra cos their service life is meant to be twice as long, but is this another scam to prise more money out of Corrado owners? Anyone else found this, or did they see me coming? The dealer I went to is a smaller francise and normally ok. Cheers Ady

Think this has just happened to mine as well, definately the red wire from the ignition giving no power when the electrics turned on. Not got time to change the ignition switch at the moment, also a few minor back and chest injuries mean I don't fancy lying upside down with my head under the sterring column. As my Alpine is connected to the battery anyway I was going to wire the ignition wire from the head unit to a the other permanently live wire from the standard stereo loom. I'm assuming that once the face plate is off the head unit it will draw no power, and everything else seems to work so i can survive with out a properly functioning ignition swith for a couple of weeks. Cheers Ady

Cheers for the help everyone! I played in safe and did things by the book with a 20A cable from the battery and 20A cable to earth on the chassis, last thing I want smoking electrics on the C. The head unit is really impressive, I would recommend it, but off ebay not from over-priced uk shops. I just found a kicker amp I forgot I had and a pile of cables/ connector etc, I might rig up a system again if I can be bothered. Cheers Ady

Just bought a Alpine CDA-9835 CD/MP3/WMA off ebay to replace my old Alpine head unit, all eager to get it going and listen to mp3 CDs, but the installation is a bit more complex than before. I thought it would be a case of just unplugging one iso connector and plugging it back into the new stereo, but the new head unit is 26 watts RMS per channel or something massive and says to run a 20A feed off the battery for the main live, and earth it to the chassis. Feeling a bit cautious Im going to wait till Saturday and connect it as it says in the instructions, as I've knackered the electrics on an Cavalier with high powered ICE installs. Anyone else fitting a new Alpine direct off the battery, or just tried plugging it into the existing connectors? Cheers Ady

Years ago I went for the Splitfires in an old Cav 130 Sri, and it ran worse with them, when I had a service and tune up at the local injection specialist and he recomeded normal bosch or NGKs and the car ran smoother again. I think a lot of people went for the Splitfires but they were all hype, and twice the price. Cheers Ady

I bumped into an old school mate I hadn't seen for 10 years the other day and he had a silver S3, however he said he didn't like it that much cos he used to have a tuned up Corrado G60 before it which he missed. When he saw my VR6 he asked if it was for sale saying he wanted a C again. I think S3s are cool, but are they as cool as a C? Cheers Ady