dr_mat

Yup, a lot of people put an oil catch tank in there instead, but you have to remember to empty it occasionally ...

Get it jacked up, make sure everything is tight. When did it last get MOTed?

Genuine VW exhaust for the VR6 is £298 + VAT for the middle and back boxes. All reports are that this exhaust lasts 10 years and upwards. (Mine did.) The front box costs about £80+VAT and the catalyst is vastly expensive new..

Petrol slops around the tank, which pushes the float sensor up, which pushes the gauge up ... Stop moving = no more movement in the tank = float sensor drops to correct reading. It's not rocket science.. ;) As for your temp gauge I'd say it's broken! :)

It's a crank case breather filter. By default gases from the crank case go back into the inlet manifold so that they get burned. The modification doesn't do much...

Does it judder if you're standing still and you just turn the steering?

You can't *see* camber, unless it's miles out .. !

Could just be the column UJs hitting something under the dash as you turn the wheel.

(The wheel shouldn't leave the ground unless your shocks are knackered, btw...) It's normal for the top mount to "settle" each time you lower the car back onto it's wheels, but you should get one clunk and then it's done. That said, I think all Corrados have a clunk or two from the front suspension, they're just old and clunky...

Don't think the 16v is heavy enough to encounter this type of problem, but bad tyres certainly can cause issues. Easiest and cheapest check is to rotate front-rear (using two jacks!).

I've seen cases where the T1-S was used on a big heavy car such as the BMW M3 on a track day and the tyres were junked because the treads had all worn unevenly. The treads shifted so much that they wore at an angle, making a sawtooth pattern across the tyre .. The T1-R is much stiffer, and seems to last a bit longer too. I've been pretty impressed with them, they compare well to the Eagle F1s on the other end of the car - it's not too out of balance, even in the wet.

Not sure you'd be allowed to junk the dash for a car you need to get MOTs on. I mean, there's probably a fair few sharp edges underneath, you'll need to protect them at least.

It can be straightened, but it's a very tricky job and it might cost you less labour to replace it.

I don't think anyone ever really imagined there would be *a* definitive tyre choice, it was really just a thread deliberately set up so people can discuss it to their heart's content, rather than having another thread every five minutes.. Of course, you can learn a lot by reading people's comments in the "definitive" thread, even if they won't tell you which is "best" by your own standards. But such is life ...

I didn't like this thread, because I'm not clear on exactly what you're talking about here. "wobble" - in what way? As long as the hub is firmly attached to the strut, and it's just the strut top moving, which in turn causes the hub to move, then look at the strut itself. Once the strut is hanging on the top plate, a small amount of movement is inevitable, because the struts were never designed to prevent sideways motion. The car's weight is supposed to be supported by the top spring plate, against the underside of the top mount. The strut just damps the vertical movement, it never experiences sideways thrust under any circumstances.

Bargain..

It's probably fine, as long as it reads full when the tank is full..

I've drained the VR down past the red, and it's been sitting on the white line BELOW and it's still never missed a beat. I got about 65 litres into it on those occasions. I think you can tell what size tank you have simply from the shape of the boot floor. Space saver spare generally means 15 gallon tank.

India Pale Ale??

You can do some basic diagnostics yourself, such as using an ohmeter to read the resistance of the wheel sensors - they should obviously not be open or closed circuit, you want to see around 2k ohms for each one. Other than checking the sensors you can't really diagnose it without plugging it in .. so if it's one of the other components, you won't know till you get the diags port hooked up.

Indeed, that sounds more likely...

I can confirm that there are three coils in the coil pack, and that each serves two cylinders, so, if you have no spark on two outlets, and those two outlets are one on top of the other, you HAVE lost a coil. Replace the coil pack.

Does it smoke a lot while it's running? You'd see if there was *that* much oil coming out the back of the exhaust.. How's it running?

This is normal when it's This sounds like a battery/alternator problem, or even a short on one of the circuits you're talking about (lights/heater). Electrical load shouldn't kill the engine completely.

Of course they can just "go".. Not a lot you can do till you've tried a new one, most likely that'll cure it.