dr_mat

CV joints? Wheel bearings? Tyres balanced?

Oh, by the way, I think the later models had an intake air temp sensor integrated into the MAF.

There's no EGR on the Euro models at all, don't know what changes were made for it on the US models (2.8s).

No, didn't swap it. But again, it's been on+off the car a couple of times. I don't believe they could cause the symptoms I'm getting. (Could cause a clunk though - I'll agree there.) Did you ever take a good look at the condition of all the arms on the hub assemblies? What about the wishbones? My clunk really seems like something's moving, and it's exascerbated by the steering being on lock when the jolt comes through. The same road jolts with no steering lock doesn't seem to have the same result. Whatever it is, I think you really have to hit it hard to make it move. I was coming down a multi-storey car park once and it clunked back "in" at the bottom of a ramp at 30 mph. That was quite a jolt..

LOL, I can't believe I'm reading it.. :) BJs: Yours are brand new, like mine! (Ok, you've done a fair few miles, but given that the symptoms didn't change when they were fitted, I don't think it's reasonable to assume it's them.) I am beginning to (well, "continuing to") suspect subframe movement against the chassis. How would you replicate that on a ramp? No way it would "feel" loose.

Fascinating discussion. I sincerely doubt I'll ever get to drive any of these combos, but it sounds like it might be fun .. :)

Does it feel like metal on metal? Does it feel like the clutch pedal is sticking (perhaps on the dash trim at your feet .. ?)? Does it still happen repeatably, or does the car need to be warm? Does it happen when you press the brake pedal? When it happens are you already off the clutch? Does the car lurch when it happens? So many questions ........

That's like saying "12 pints is just like 4 pints" ("officer"..) ;) Never been that fast on a bike, but I would imagine the gyroscopic effect of the front wheel alone tends to keep the bike pretty stable!

Heh, I had full opposite lock one morning on a greasy roundabout at only 35 mph ... Admittedly both back tyres turned out to be illegal ... :)

Extra drag from that big long centre prop-shaft, mainly. Dunno how much difference it will make, doubt it would be vastly noticeable. [And I suppose the weight advantage of independant rear suspension is lost with the extra driveshafts and diff, true enough.]

Stuck ISV? Blown MAF? Have you scanned the ECU for reported faults?

Big advantage of independant rear suspension is the greatly reduced unsprung mass, which will improve grip aswell as ride quality. You're probably right about most circumstances with the Quaiffe being enough (I wouldn't be able to comment, having never driven one!) - but the question here is "I've got a 4x4 setup ready to go in - should I ditch it and buy an LSD or carry on down the 4x4 route" Given your comment about the wet weather grip too, Kev, for me the answer to the above question would have to be "keep the 4x4!".

First time I've heard the Corrado rear axle described as "good" ...! It's 1970's technology. It's the cause for the majority of the car's road noise and crashiness, and the only thing that makes it "different" from the others is those flexi bushes that essentially allow it to twist and give a little passive rear steer. Why do all modern cars use independent rear suspensions? It's not just because of the saved space! Not having driven a VR with a trick diff, I can't really say whether it would be enough to keep 250+ lbft under control, but I doubt it. In a straight line maybe, but in the twisties I have a feeling that 4wd will always win. And modern UK traffic conditions give you far more requirement for 0-20 than 30-70, so I think I'd choose 4x4 if I had the power to do so.

Heh, not fair, the Tornado doesn't reach peak engine efficiency till 300 mph ...

Anything's possible, and IIRC there's a thread somewhere with a list of parts and details. Have a dig around. It's not easy..

Think they're more or less the same, except the hangers are a totally different design (and probably mounted in different places too).

"missing subframe bolts" wtf???

Given that you'll be putting different dampers onto the car, and you can't even guarantee that you'll be putting the camber back the SAME as it was before, I would say it's vital that you check it... Any time you remove or just loosen the two big bolts that connect the hub to the dampers you need to check and adjust the camber.

We wait and see if it makes any long-term difference, because as we all know, VRs feel great on their way back from Stealth ... ;)

I accept all major credit cards ... :)

They could have done that. They could even have looked at the aux belt and said "yeah mate your chains are fine".. But paranoia only buys you repair bills .. ;)

Once it's disconnected it will probably run rough for a while, but once the ECU realises it's totally fubar, it should fall back to using the throttle position (assuming that sensor is working ok!) so the car should be driveable, if not perfect.

"passed", not "past", please! 4/10, please brush up your grammar! ;)

I have a spare PP3 he can use ....

Really sounds like the MAF to me. Maybe it's on the way out ...? Mine does exactly that if I disconnect the MAF. (Funny, I got no sound in that video, think my player is too old ..)