dr_mat

It might stop it rusting ... But VWs aren't known for rusting, as they're usually pretty well undersealed in the factory.

I've heard of a few VRs snapping their chains (maybe four or five, counting Golfs and Passats..), but it's hardly an epidemic. Once the tensioner has worn down the chain can flail around at speed, and it's when it does this and bounces off the casing that it's more likely to have problems. The plastic guides have been known to break too, again, increasing the likelihood of the chains bouncing around. I've also heard of lots of stories of VRs with rattly chains running like that for tens of thousands of miles with no ill effects, so I don't think it's something that you really need to panic about so much.

By the way, if your read-out is a power-at-wheels graph, it won't cross at 5250.. only power-at-crank will cross at 5250 rpm ...

Original fuel pump? On 230,000 miles? It's funny that you have problems at low revs though, I would expect a poorly fuel pump to cause bigger issues at high revs due to not being able to sustain a flow rate. Sounds more likely that you've got crap in your injectors, or of course, you might have something more fundamental (and the running out of fuel was a coincidence).. Does it use oil/water?

Given the story above I suspect that - initially you had a blown high beam fuse on the loom - you then ripped it all out and correctly refitted the VW loom - then you replaced the "faulty" high beam fuse and refitted the after-market loom ... but ... - you may not have refitted it correctly, or it is *possible* that the high beam relay is stuck on.

Chav-ed Corsa??

We will compare notes when we have both fixed our respective cars, no doubt, Kev..

I'm still not convinced that the problem in any of these cases is the rack. Particularly given that many people have swapped their racks, sometimes with completely different models, and it still happens. I am really thinking it's something more subtle than that. Something that people simply don't replace normally.

If you've got an ohmeter it should be easy enough to check the wire's integrity.. Most multimeters can do basic closed/open circuit testing aswell as resistance, within reason.

Ah, cue those comments about "silly power" then .. :)

Important to note the difference here: Local ATS/Kwik Fit "laser alignment" is nothing more than a tracking setup. Ok they put laser thingies on the back wheels too, so at least the front wheels are aligned to each other and to the rears (so if the rears are off track, the fronts will match, bonus!). They don't check ANY caster/camber angles using this equipment. To do that, you MUST have the full kit that Stealth or your local dealer has. If you've had the front suspension changed, ever, you really should consider getting a full caster+camber check. If you can get your dealer to do it for £60+VAT that's a bargain, my dealer wouldn't check your tyre pressures for less than £85 + VAT!!

The car lowered? The only time I've heard of people chewing inner joints was cos of silly power or silly lowering .. (Or both!)

Can't test the inner CV joints like that .. but it'll give the outer ones a good workout. Don't know the answer myself though, no idea if any play is "normal"..

Erm.. driving VR6s (or any engine) hard without oil is gonna cost you one engine in pretty short time. Fix it, quick.

Did you put the 'stat in the right way up? (i.e. is it genuinely sitting at 100-109 degrees?!) Or do you think the guage is wrong?

Why might you buy a wheel called the "BS"? ;)

But if they're eagle f1s they're v/z speed rated and they're the right load rating too. Of course, mytyres seem to have a complete inability to tell you if they don't have them in stock, so don't wait too long before you call them to double check. I don't know why VW went from 195- width to 205- width for the VR. Maybe it was for some extra grip, maybe it was to protect the alloys from kerbing a little more, maybe it was to get a higher load-rating. On the whole it would be better if they hadn't, because 205/50/15 are becoming a rare tyre size, and a lot of manufacturers are dropping them. 195/50/15 will probably be available for ever though ...

Fuel economy and poor performance problems sound like you've probably got a duff lambda sensor.. Get the car on VAGCOM ..

The ABS light should come on when the ABS ecu is being interrogated, that's normal. Not sure why VAGCOM isn't connecting to it though, cos it sounds as if the ABS ecu thinks it is!

Must admit, when I first saw the front end design of the C (and the 143mph VR6 at that!) I was surprised to see the subframe sticking out there unsupported taking all the load of the engine and the wheel's cornering forces.

Sometimes I think that, for the amount of grief I get from my ten year old VW I may as well be driving something *seriously* exotic and rare. I wouldn't mind so much the hassles if I knew they were so rare I'd have to find a machine shop to actually MAKE spares using the old broken ones as a pattern..

If something were horrendously weak I wouldn't expect it to go "good" at all... Ah man, these cars are too fecking old.

I know you think this is bonkers, but I swear it's something that's helped by having lifted the car off it's front suspension. Perhaps it's cos you lift it by the body and the front suspension drops back into the right spot or something? Who knows?

Dunno, I've not looked at it closely to see if there's a crack .. Try unplugging the lead completely. If it still sparks it can't be the lead, can it?

I know..! And I'm out of ideas as to *what*, cos everything's been swapped!