dr_mat

LOL!

I would say that round a tight racetrack the GTi would have an advantage. The VR isn't supposed to be a balls out track car, it's a GT car, which is why this argument is pointless.. :)

Corrados hold their value well (rarity value). £4k won't get you a minter or 70k miles unless you're really lucky..

Yeah, mine has a nice new ECP rad. BTW when I spoke to the dealers, they were saying "back order till end of January".. so it looks like they're basically not planning on ordering any, doesn't it? Tossers!

Hmm, you mean you want to compete with GPC? There's a significant overlap, at least..

Some companies actually put VR6 Storms in insurance group 19 ..

Supercharger rebuild costs ~£400, but then the VR timing chains will cost you ~£700. Both are once-in-100k-miles jobs, if all goes well, so there you go.

He wuz robbed! Both times! :) Depends on condition I would say. chrishill makes a good point too. Looks like the Corrado has to go..! There is another way though: sell both cars and buy a bus pass. Cambridge is a pretty small town, you don't really need a car if you live *in* Cambridge.

Ok that's one (ok three people really). How about the rest of you? :) Anyway, not that this is relevant of course, but apparently "gimp" is now a term that is being coined by the disabled in the US as a means to reclaim the term and force it into a positive role instead of the current negative connotations.

How do you figure the Pug is depreciating? Given that it's not worth much it's not got a long way to fall!

The question really is: do you keep as your ONE car the flaky twelve-year-old expensive-to-insure liable-to-be-stolen uses-lots-of-fuel Corrado. Or the dirt-cheap-to-run dirt-cheap-to-insure reliable-as-clockwork not-worried-about-parking-it-anywhere Pug. Head versus heart isn't it, really?

Did you? Everyone? Absolutely everyone here knew that? 76 views on the thread so far and all of them knew that? I think we need a poll! ;)

Not really. The VR lump is more complicated, so it's harder to work on and harder to diagnose if it goes wrong, but it's just as reliable as the others if treated right. Which engine you choose really depends on how much you want to pay on insurance and petrol more than anything else, they're all pretty much the same in terms of "reliability" and basic servicing costs.

You expect an unbiased response on the Corrado forum??? ;)

If your guy doesn't wanna do it, take it somewhere else.

Meguiars even? http://www.meguiars.com/

I would have said it would be better to just replace both parts together, I think, rather than splitting and trying to refit both. Certainly that's what Stealth did with mine last year.

When you say "there's fuel at the rail" - well yeah, but are the injectors putting fuel in the cylinders? If there's no spark I suspect they're not. Definitely worth checking that ECU relay from what I've heard on here.

If they're faulty then it'll help, if they're not faulty it won't make the slightest bit of difference... These are not "wear" items.. If you have a fault code then by all means replace the faulty sensor, but I can't see the point in spending money for it's own sake.

Haha, prospective replacement of the VR's sensor array could easily set you back £700 ... Best to leave it till you know something's fubar before you jump in with your chequebook! Approximate prices, off the top of my head! : Crank sensor - £140 Cam sensor - £40 Knock sensors (2 of) - £50 MAF sensor - £350 (?) Lambda - £70 Throttle position - £40 An array of oil/water/air intake temperature sensors - £10 each There's sure to be others ...

IMHO, having had a brief drive in a 1.9 GTi 205 a couple of years back, it's a great buggy, and is certainly a lot more "raw" than the VR will ever be (no PAS??), and it's certainly fast too. Side by side? Probably not a lot in it, whether it's twisty or not. In high speed corners I suspect the Corrado's relative stability will allow the driver a little more confidence and therefore a little more speed. Low speed corners and I think the 205's sheer low rev grunt and wider tyres (compared to the weight they're carrying) might help it along quite a bit, but hey, it's not really relevant now. Both are past classics. Mostly past, anyway.. :) The big drawback with the 205 1.9 GTi was the pathetic turning circle. Going to the shops meant a three point bloody turn just to get into a parking space. Frankly I'd rather have that Corrado practicality and smoothness every time! :)

Disconnect the aux belt and start it cold, see if it does it then.. (Don't run the car for long tho!)

Crank position sensor is one-HUNDRED and forty pounds, so I doubt he's getting one for forty quid. The VR6 sensors are: crank position: £140, engine will not produce fuel or spark without it cam position (aka hall sender): £40, timing will be off, loss of power without it knock sensors: ~£50 each - two of - one on the front, one on the back of the block. See above. And yes, the dizzy VR has the hall sensor included in the dizzy. It is quite possible his crank sensor is faulty, and tbh once the engine has stopped turning, it's hard to diagnose. Stick it on an oscilloscope and you should see a nice square wave. Typically if they're failing the waveform gets indistinct and typically it's worse when the block is hot, and comes back to normal-ish when everything cools down. I think, but could be wrong, that pretty much any other sensor being dead would just mean the car runs *badly*, but without the crank sensor you're going nowhere. Check for spark. If there's spark then the crank sensor is fine.

I have heard this on many VWs, and I don't think it's necessarily anything to worry about. Check the belt tensioner for sure, but lots do it..

.. I remember saying "the steering feels a bit disconnected" quite a lot about my VR until I swapped the steering column, as I said above .. Take the knee panel off on the driver's side, to get access to the lower steering column. You should be able to see the UJs. Grab the top UJ tight and very gently move the steering wheel. If you feel *ANY* disconnect between these two points, you found your problem. You can also try moving the UJ itself, and see if you feel any play between it and the rack. You may also have play on the rack and pinion itself.