dr_mat

I'm about to join the "all-new Corrado" club myself. New wishbone bushes, steering rack and track rods/ends going on tomorrow.. Hopefully the car will be back to normal finally!!!! :) Another big bill tho... :(

LOL handy that, driving a Corrado AND an AA van. The perfect combination, some might say.. :)

You lucky git!! ;)

I was busy untangling the threads just as you were typing that one Henny... ;)

Are you even sure the G60 ECU has adaptation? AFAIK it has no long term memory, so it adapts from cold each time you start the engine.

I think the black leathers seem to stand up better in the long term, or at least the damage they take doesn't look so obvious. To me. YMMV. :)

I've heard that little ends go fairly regularly on the G60s. Henny would know better than I, however..

No, I wasn't actually, there's really only the clutch it could be, I was stationary, with the wheels about straight, just loading the clutch trying to climb up the hill. I'm going to assume it must be the clutch lining burning off that's making the noise, I don't see how it could be anything else. Perhaps it'll go away when it's all properly bedded in. (Next week then, if I have to keep parking up this damn street.. :mad: )

It's a hard noise to pin-point and quantify when it's happening right in front of you, too! To be fair, any clutch would smoke with the treatment it was getting, it's a right little bar-steward of a hill, totally gravel and mud, about a 1-in-3 and pot-holed to hell. But it's the only place I can park at the moment, given that there's no spaces in my street :mad: and every other damn street needs a parking permit!! :x

Anyone got any ideas why my VR might be making a kinda whirring noise when I'm trying to manoeuvre up a steep hill in reverse and the engine is under significant load. Anyone else noticed this? Seems to be coming from the front of the car. AFAIK my engine mounts are all pretty A-OK, but I did wonder if the engine moved slightly under such an unusual load and maybe something's touching? The clutch itself is new (ish), replaced with an LUK at Stealth earlier this year, it's only done 4000 miles (if that!). There's no sign of the clutch slipping (though I do smell some clutch lining each time I park up that DAMN hill!! :( ), and it's not unduly vibrating. Guess I just wondered if anyone else had seen this or similar? Cheers, M.

(I would probably demand new ball joint, top mount and probably spring and shock absorbers too, just in case the strut is slightly bent...)

Using them in the rain is the worst - the ultra cold rain on the front of the glass, coupled with the ultra-hot bulb behind the glass causes them to crack. To be fair to them though, I suspect that most cracks are caused by stone chips causing micro-fractures. These are then made much worse by the heating/cooling effect of those bulbs.

Hopefully you'll just be needing a new hub (plus bearings), wishbone, track rod end and wing there. Can't see if there's any damage at the front of the car from the pics...

Most insurance companies will give you the option of paying for the claim yourself, if you wish to protect your no-claims, even if you've put the claim through their system.

You will pay the excess once, based on the total value of the claim, regardless of whether it's your damage or theirs.

They're about £43 from GPC. Still hugely expensive, but not as bad as you seem to be expecting...

Yeah I saw that. That's what's ludicrous. With the schrick peak torque should be 3700rpm. Without it it should be at 4400rpm.. Save your time and money. If you're still smarting get it checked at another rolling road (one that doesn't have that "little peak at the start" messing things up.

Ok, so how do you trust the rest of the plot if that part is clearly wrong? You're looking at the torque above 3000 rpm then? Or is it accurate above 4k and not below? I honestly think you're chasing ghosts mate, nailing plates to the wall, sticking fog to the floor. Whatever. I have NEVER heard of a VR6 (even Schricked) showing 195 lbft at 2700 rpm.

That is a WEIRD torque curve.. The little dip from 2500 -> 3000 rpm doesn't sit right. Who ever saw a VR6 with more torque at 2000 rpm than at 4000? Crazy. As for the "before" plots - there was something seriously wrong with your engine to be pulling only 170 lbft on a standard VR6 - and again, you've got this really weird peak below 3k rpm. That just doesn't match anything I've ever seen.

I found an excellent document on that a short while back, but yes, the UK is excluded from the agreement because we're not in the Euro.

Does anyone have an idiot-guide to removing and refitting the rear spoiler mechanism itself? It looks to me like pretty much everything in there is bolted to the spoiler mechanism, which is in turn bolted to the boot lid.. It looks like a pain to get it all out, mainly cos it's hard to know where to start! And then there's the excellent bolts that hold the rubber spoiler seals down onto the boot lid. There's a captive nut underneath, that's surrounded by some weak plastic.. First turn of the screwdriver breaks 'em free.. :(

perhaps you don't have sticky tappets then!

Tappets or timing chains. A lack of smoothness can make the difference between an engine that's perceptively torquey-er than others. Mine seems to really benefit from a long run, clearing out the coke and quietening down the tappets. For the following week or so it's a flying machine from almost no revs. But two or three weeks of commuting later and it's back to running a bit rough and sounding like a bag of spanners.

164 at the wheels is pretty healthy.

That's my exact problem - I don't have a drive at all, so unless someone's prepared to loan me the space and the time, I've gotta pay someone... Damn. :(