dr_mat

You can't change the upper tensioner, but you can at least change the upper guide rail without doing anything else, if necessary.

Dan you're thinking cams... and it's 268 anyway.. (a 368 degree cam would be .. erm.. a circle!) I've heard that the schrick vgi can hit the bonnet on the VRs too, under heavy load. You have cut a little bit out of one of the bonnet bracing members. The VGI vs the VSR - who knows? Most people say the VGI is better, but it's marginal from what I've heard.

VR - from what I've read the VSR can be plumbed straight in. It works by providing more efficient cylinder fill, so there's more air pulled in at lower revs, and the ECU notices this (cos of the MAF) and adds more fuel. It won't run lean as long as your MAF is working ok. (In fact, it'll probably run slightly rich if your MAF is dead too.) As for fitting it, well first off you need one of those damn spline keys that you can't find for less than £20 anywhere..!

I don't *think* the top mounts have changed during the lifetime of the VR6. I know they're different from the earlier cars, but AFAIK all VR6s use the same top mounts and shock strut assembly. Like I say, there may be subtle variations in the springs themselves, but they won't be major. I'd be very surprised if you have a problem, jedi. (Not that I'm an expert, I should say tho!)

Nah - I've got a set of shocks in my dining room - the fronts have the spring seats as an integral part of the strut's structure. The rears are sold (by VW) without spring seats. Yes, the top mounts may have changed tho.

I was gonna say, £3k in 3 years is not so bad. I'm pushing £2k/yr in the 18 months I've had mine, and I've just decided it's time to bite the bullet and get the cam chains done. Kiss goodbye to another half-grand (at least). BTW - how come your cam chain guide went 12 months after pulling the clutch and stuff off the car for the top end rebuild? Presumably your garage didn't have the presence of mind to combine the two jobs while it was all off originally? :(

Didn't think the spring seats changed - they come with the shock strut. The springs themselves changed several times through the life of the car, though, and you can only tell which ones you have from the coloured spots on the lower coil.

Up to you, but it's one of those things that a plod in a bad mood is likely to use as an excuse to pull you. I'm on borrowed time with my red rear lamps too, so I know what that means, but there ya go. Technically you're not insured if your car is not worthy of it's MOT certificate, either, so you might have trouble if something bad happens (stolen/recovered for example).

Technically you need a "side-visible indicator light", but it doesn't have to be where it is currently. On the whole it's probably not worth moving it, though, unless you really really want to...

A thought just occurred to me kev - you said that you were getting the rear axle bushes done? My bushes were replaced about 18 months ago, before my handling problems turned up, but it occurs to me that the garage I WAS using have almost certainly replaced them with GSF specials.. Depending on the price of genuine ones. They charged me about £25 + VAT each. Could they be genuine I wonder?

Did you get those spare tensioners then PhatVR6? I think mine is still iffy..

Spoke to him today, waiting for a quote on timing chains.. Not looking forward to it, given that he says they charge £45/hr!

None. It all depends on what you negotiate with the guy, there and then... I have got parts club prices, and other times I've paid full price. It's very variable..

Black J-reg 16V, abandoned on the A33 just south of reading.. Anyone?? :D

Um, I didn't call them naff, I said *mine* were NOT naff or orange.. I didn't say a word about yours.. I wouldn't expect everyone to *like* everything I decided to do to my car, but then I guess it's not worth saying anything if you don't like something, so maybe I should have just kept my mouth shut? :? Does it really matter? We all want different things from our cars. You do your own thing, I'll do mine. Doesn't mean either of us is "right" or "better".. :)

Emailed a number of things I dug out. Hope your account doesn't blow up! :)

Hey, I have no problem with yours. *I* don't like them, bit too bling for me, but that's a personal thing.

I have a small collection of scans too. Can be emailed..

I got some clears from Halfords - very good. They look exactly like the originals (i.e. slightly opaque plastic), but are not naff OR orange (i.e. NO BLING), so that makes 'em perfect in my book. And it was "10% off everything" day too...

It's also to do with oil thickness. When the oil is very cold, it's much thicker, and it takes a longer time for it to squeeze into the tappets - hence it takes longer before the rattle goes... As for the up-and-running noise level, that's more likely caused by psychological effects. If it's a generally noisy day you think your car is quieter than usual.. If you're thrashing around in the middle of the countryside then it's going to sound loud...

http://www.wynns.uk.com/default.htm?page=30 (scroll to the bottom) This should be available most places - as recommended by someone here just a few days ago..

You may be interested in the following piece. I can't comment on it's accuracy, but I think it fits pretty much my observations. http://www.btinternet.com/~john.wintle2/Tappet.htm This fully recommends using a flush at every oil change.

There's no single answer to these kind of problems. Let's face it, "bad running" is a single symptom that can be caused by pretty much *any* engine fault.. The most common causes of bad running when cold, however, are probably: idle stabilisation valve probs engine temp sensor probs (this would show up on VAG-COM) HT lead problems / coil pack / spark plugs fuel delivery - injectors, fuel pump etc. ..but you could also benefit from a ECU reset, so it re-adapts to your engine's config. First things first, if you don't wanna just replace things, get it on VAG-COM (or equivalent) - any engine fault codes can cause all kinds of inconsistent running.

When I say "leaked over time", I mean this car was parked up for 4 months without being used. I don't think the fuel filter has ever been changed (the car is nearly new!). I don't think there's a leak anywhere, to be honest (we'd smell it, or at the very least see drops under the car), so I just think it's one of those things you have to deal with. If they don't blow through of their own accord, we'll have no choice but to get the fuel lines bled I think, but in the meantime we'll see how it goes. Ta for the advice. :)

And on top of that little wonder, it's been overfilled with coolant aswell, right to the brim. Well done, chaps. Will be syphoning that out at the earliest possible opportunity...