dr_mat

Useful extra oomph, yes. Plus my schrick is now working properly, so it's a bit of a torque monster. It seems the 263s provided about 10-15 lbft of torque across the whole rev band, and don't tail off so fast at the top of the rev range. Combined with the Schrick manifold the car is feeling about a hundred kilos lighter .. :)

Well, my wishbone bush has been screwed for about 20k miles (6 years!) and passed every MOT on the way. They prise at them with pry bars repeatedly and deemed them fine.. Symptoms of dodgy wishbone bushes: - bad tramlining - scary heavy braking - lots of torque steer - uneven tyre wear - unpredictable steering weight .. much the same symptoms of a dodgy lower ball joint, or seriously messed up geometry.. but most other things are easier to check. In general, if you find that your steering feels "better" after the car has been jacked up then it's probably the wishbone bushes .. ---------- Post added at 12:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 AM ---------- And btw the bush isn't supposed to be stiff in the face of prying in that direction, though I'd admit that doesn't look right to me. It's only really supposed to resist movement fore and aft.

Corrados are known for the steering being a bit "weighty", particularly compared to most modern cars. There are plenty of reasons why yours might be worse than other Corrados, however.. usually the rack itself, but could also be the pump unit.

Well, am I the first with everything fitted and running?

Hmm, group buy for the same thing right now! :)

Ok, interesting result! When did you change the FPR? Is it possible one of them is just plain faulty?

Any advert louder than the program whose buttocks it is inserted between. To be honest, I find most programs irritating these days too. Maybe I'm just getting old..

I think you're being harsh .. the market has changed over the last few years. These cars are simply not as desirable as they used to be and some of the energy has gone from the tuning market on to newer things. (When I joined the CF VW didn't offer a coupe at all .. their last was the Corrado .. now we have the Scirocco 2 and no matter what you say about it being "different" that'll take a sector of the market away from the Corrado..) But good products will always sell, no matter what the price. It's a question of waiting for the right buyer to come along. And there's no doubt that this is a good product.

And my front engine mount bolt has done 143,000 miles. Doesn't mean it's not a dumb design. For a VW it's remarkably under-engineered.

Well, given there's a list of reasons why the VSR is better, and there's no difference in performance, then I personally would pay more for the VSR.. No brainer.. As for the bolts, it's a bit idiotic that the whole of the engine's torque works against just one bolt. Stupid design..

As has been mentioned previously in this thread, the Schrick blocks all access to the spark plug leads and the OE engine cover won't fit on it. It also *seriously* stretches the inlet duct if you're using an OE air box (which is in a fixed location). The Schrick also, as you say, requires you to CUT the underside of the bonnet and the extended runners are dodgily close to the front crossmember. Most fitters recommend uprated engine mounts to prevent the Schrick from fouling around the engine bay. The VSR wouldn't really require any of this.

The late VRs all had the 16-pin OBD2-style connector, though they speak the OBD1 protocol. You don't need the adapter cable for these. To check, just look under the gear stick surround and see what socket you've got. Personally, I haven't had a working VAG-COM setup for some time, I might well go and buy one of the newer USB cables (still got a serial cable!). Sold on my last laptop that had a serial port some time ago ... The freebie version of VAGCOM will read off all the codes, but will only "decode" the first one into a text description (unless they've changed that over the years?). You have to decode the rest yourself.. The official VAGCOM licensing model these days is they'll sell you a license and you get a cable free. The cable contains a license code, so you can move it around and the software will always work.

Well my internal google failed me, not a surprise.. :) It's fair to say that the VSR is a much better fit than the Schrick, regardless.

I'm pretty sure the VSR is almost identical in shape to the stock VR manifold so no such compromise occurs. The schrick, yes, you have to flex the inlet tube quite significantly to make it fit, and a lot of folks buy the early "concertina" type tube to help make this a little easier.

Since they're non-standard size, you run them hard enough that the steering feels nice and precise, and no softer. There's not really any mathematically-deduced guidelines.

Yes, that's probably the one. If there's another identical relay, swap them over ...

I'm not sure, tbh. What do you observe? does the radio stay on while you're cranking the starter over for example? It should go off as soon as you push the ignition key to the starting position. And, obvious question, did you buy a genuine ignition switch? There's been a lot of issues with pattern parts.

You could have an ignition switch / starting relay problem .. the ignition switch should cut off the supply to "non essential" electrics such as the air con and radio when the starter is engaged, so they should literally make no difference.

Well, apart from my natural tendency to scepticism which agrees with the comments above that there's no Corrados worth that, I would like to say that MAYBE just maybe that one car is worth the asking price. For that, I would expect it to have been garaged its whole life (no temperature extremes to rot plastics and rubber, no moisture creep into subframes, and no rot), and it should be TRULY immaculate. And, of course, he would HAVE to be able to prove that with a legit history and full service record. The only trouble with buying a car like that, if that's what it truly is, is that you're throwing money down the drain if you drive it or you don't keep it that way.. Put 30k miles on it and it's no longer truly low miles. Attract a few stonechips and it's no longer truly immaculate. It's on the cusp of being a classic, but you've got to be committed to keep it that way. If you want a car you can drive and enjoy without being paranoid, those are NOT the type of cars to be looking at, and maybe the seller knows this and wants to keep the price high so that only a collector is going to be interested - someone who will cherish it the same way. My 2p. ---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:44 AM ---------- On the other hand, it's an interesting fact to note that there are still a few cars around with such low miles and perhaps in the kind of condition that will one day be in a museum. Nice to know that.

Count the splines on the input shaft. If all the fitments are the same, it'll work. The only possible variance is there might be slight gearing/assist sensitivity differences between models.

Yes, Mr Fish speaks the truth. The only "seamless" VSR config uses the one particular model of OBD1 ECU that provides the switch over output line - later ones do not and have to rely on the Schrick controller to do the RPM-based switching. And yes, that ECU was tied to a distributor-fed car. The actual VSR package was the vacuum gear, manifold itself, and a chip that would only work in that particular type of ECU. Anyone running any other combination is probably using the Schrick controller.

Ok fair enough chaps, let the games continue then.. :)

Energy sources are all around us, that's not really the issue they're trying to solve. "pure phsyics" like this work to prove the fundamental theories of matter is highly unlikely to produce any direct output that is "useful" for society, but it will allow other people to make modifications to other techniques, or provide better ways to do other things over the years. Let's face it - someone discovered the electron once. No-one had a clue what to do with it. Turns out it's kinda useful to transmit energy from place to place ...

It's all about finding sub-atomic particles. You get more energy in, you smash things into smaller pieces when they collide .. you get a chance to find even smaller particles.

On VAGCOM I think I'd go to the measuring blocks and start looking at the readouts from the various temp sensors and other things like the throttle sensor. You can also check the battery voltage in there!