dr_mat

No idea what you mean there.. the ABS sensor doesn't attach to the shock on the rear, and on the front it clips over the mounting bolts - there's no specific part of the shock that needs to be anything special for this to happen. IIRC GSF have two parts: oil-only and gas-over-oil dampers. The latter are more expensive and weren't fitted in the factory but offer slightly better damping in extreme use.

FWIW my Schrick has "sticky flap syndrome" too. It sticks OPEN though, once you've gone out past 4000 rpm it opens fully and stays there. Not all the time like, just often enough to annoy. Though I do note the idle is better when it's stuck open, I seriously miss that big lump of torque in the 3-4k rpm range ...

They will ask if your car gets nicked..

If it only happens when you're sitting still with the gear in neutral it's probably the g/b output shaft.. (Which is pretty normal..)

Yep, that's the first one that goes, in most cases. Check the rear engine mounts for excessive movement. I don't have the part number to hand but if you call VW (the only place you'll get one from) they *ought* to be able to find it.. It goes from the cylinder head to the heater matrix, with a t- off it to the top of the expansion tank, iirc.

Auctions always go cheap, whether on ebay or the big physical auction houses. You want to look at the motoring classifieds on ebay instead, prices are more similar to auto trader. That said, I don't really think that the Corrado is feted to last forever. Even with the thousands of them still on the road, getting hold of parts is becoming more and more difficult (VW won't supply them any more), and that really restricts the market to enthusiasts only. Then you get onto the fuel prices and environmental issues. The VR6 is only a few CCs off being charged a stack of cash to drive in London, and even though it misses the high charge bands, doing so will set you back £70 a tank of fuel and give you only ~250 miles in london traffic. Then there's group 18 insurance.. and ALL those *repairs*.. (sob) They're just a little finanically unloved. I love my VR6, even though it rarely starts, and STILL costs me regular maintenance DESPITE it's lack of use. But I'm lucky enough to not have to rely on it for anything, ever. If it doesn't start, well so what, I'll walk to work..!

LOL, because you'd cry?! :) I've spent far too much on my C over the years too, but I console myself with the fact that it has cost me less than a brand new bland-mobile would have done in the same time. (And mine is only slightly different from standard..)

If it runs well, ignore the numbers. If you were using excessive fuel, or it was down on power, or it was pinking then I'd say look further, but otherwise .. move on .. ! And ignition timing at idle is hit and miss anyway. Check it out under full acceleration load - then you'll know if it's running right or not.

Wheel bearings.

Wheel bearings?

About once every month someone posts up saying "what's the best way to tune my VR6?" and though three years ago you would have got suggestions about VSR manifolds, chips, exhausts, throttle bodies etc offering modest gains for modest monies, these days the mantra of the forum seems to be "get a supercharger"..! But don't believe the hype: unless you're pretty good with a spanner you won't get a s/c anywhere near working for a grand, and let's face it, a grand and a half will buy you an entire Corrado .. !

Well, it has to be worth getting the geometry checked out. That means cast+camber too, not just tracking. If the tracking was out you'd wear one side only, it must be something else.

Well .. ;) Wider wheels with the same offset as OE means that the car's weight goes vertically through the bearing and hub, just like the original wheels did and how it was designed to carry the car. The handling *is* likely to be affected in both cases, but in a much more subtle way than shifting the weight off centre of the bearing assembly will, which is what happens if the offset is wrong.

If the offset is wrong it'll stress the wheel bearings and hub assembly more than normal. They may well still last for ages, but something to bear in mind. It'll certainly screw up the handling.

Even the police's own figures state that "excessive speed" is a probably cause of very few accidents, whilst as has been pointed out "excessive speed" is frequently cited as "contributory" to the severity of the accident. These are different things that the press (particularly) mix up all the time, and of course the politicians and speed camera groups twist these figures ...

If criminals wore large plastic electronically readable name tags they would be... :)

.. apart from when you get in your car? ;) The reasoning behind hidden cameras in this respect is simple: if everyone knows they might get caught at ANY time, ANY where, they just won't break the speed limits ever. And those that would speed anyway would pretty soon lose their license. That said, I don't like it either, and it's a difficult one to follow through on because of exactly what you already mentioned: respect. Policing has to be done with the support of the community, no one organisation can stand along and do just what it wants (except perhaps the US government or Microsoft). Standing on bridges over dual carriageways pointing radar guns at people doing 85 does NOT win you any friends. Fact is there's no way the police or anyone are going to stop people speeding on motorways by trying to tell them it's "not safe". It'll never work. Everyone knows it's perfectly safe - except if you have an accident .. at which point you were in trouble either way. Ok having an accident at 85 means you'll probably be in hospital a few weeks longer than having one at 70, but people simply WILL NOT judge risk that way. Never going to happen. Best hope they have, IMHO, is to do a campaign based on MONEY. Once people start to realise that cruising for 5 hours at 90 mph reduces your miles per gallon by about 10-20% compared to 70mph, and they start to have to actually *pay* for it, some people will change their habits. Some won't, of course, and that's inevitable, but those people also need to remember: if you crash into someone at 90+ you'd better have a bloody good lawyer cos otherwise you're not going to be going near a car for quite a long time ...

Hmm those numbers are just odd. 212 bhp at the flywheel equates to 193 bhp at the wheels? That's an incredibly low transmission loss and a rather high power at the wheels too. And 234 what in torque? I assume that's in Nm? If it's lbft that's a spectacular figure for a "standard" VR6. If it's Nm it's a shade low, only about 170 lbft. The shape of the torque curve is odd aswell. Massive peak at 3600 and nothing over 4500? Doesn't look right to me.

It could just be a cheap tyre? OR you only go round corners one way. OR the one corner you ALWAYS scream round is a right hander.. or lots of other reasons.. I always wear out the front left first: all those damn roundabouts on the way to work ...

Excessive wear on outer edges of one tyre only is most likely an underinflated tyre.

I love the way they hide the women's changing rooms in the lingerie section. The "embarrassment" of guys (being a suitable collective noun, I think) hanging round who aren't sure what they're allowed to look at is quite amusing sometimes..

I am getting serious deja vu here dude ....

Quite right too. A fully charged battery should be able to crank the engine for 20 minutes or so (with enough of a breather every 10 seconds or so to stop it exploding .. :) ). Trouble with these Corrados is if you don't use them everyday for at least 30 minutes the charge level drops steadily over the weeks with it not quite being fully recharged, then wham you leave it 3 days and it's dead.. :(

Black plugs deff indicates overfuelling (matching your poor mpg). I would suggest you start looking for hairline air leaks in the exhaust manifold, pre-lambda.

I'd be surprised if it's possible to eliminate the old-car driveline shunt without a complete gearbox and diff refresh too. Though of course you can also learn to double declutch ..