dr_mat

My point really is that chipping or remapping an engine that's fuelling incorrectly is not smart: get the basics right first, before you decide what to do next.

I would heartily recommend running it till it broke, saving your pennies. It might run and run for years without any further work.. :)

... adjusting CO correctly: £0.

Mine's never done this, so there's definitely something wrong .. Get it on VAGCOM. Should have a second positive peak in torque at about 5400 rpm, then gently tail off as it goes to the red line. But it WILL pull right through to the redline, no problem.

How much is a re-ring on a VR6? I'd guess it's a fair amount of labour, given that you have to drop the crank out..

You should paint a stripe down the roof in red to match..... ;)

5 looks low. Could be a lot of things .. was the engine up to temp when you tested it? It needs to be.

Are the offsets and widths the same for your wheels? That can cause tramlining and camber following a lot.

Fuel pump on it's way out? Fuel filter blocked? Did you check the fuel pressure while doing the run? FWIW if there's sensors faulty, the ECU will typically run the engine rich and back off the ignition timing to protect it from pinking.

Quality display of incompetence. Love it.. (I think firing him is too good for him btw.. Force him to make tea for you till the end of time.. Mind you that might not be a good idea, it might not be good tea..)

It's been discussed before quite a lot but I don't remember offhand exactly what VW calls it. Have a dig around in the search..

The ABS pump on the VR is common with the Golf Mk3 VR6 and some GTis. Probably some Passats too. It's common and cheap to replace used, and they're normally very reliable so you should expect a replacement to work ok.

VAG-COM software (aka engine diags) can read live sensor values out of the ECU. http://www.ross-tech.com/ It will only "fail" a temperature sensor if it's electrically dead (i.e. shorted out or open circuit).

I think your MFA was calibrated by a passing badger at the VW factory. Or it's faulty. Check that it's getting reliable 12v. Don't know where the data comes from for the 16v, but I would imagine there's a gearbox sensor for distance travelled and it uses manifold pressure for the mpg. My MFA doesn't report "MPH", btw. Or do you mean the average MPH? That's always lower than you expect ..

You want to scan the ECU for error codes, and spend a happy half hour checking the measuring block readings to make sure all your temperature sensors are working right. Warm start problems are typical temp sensor issues - the engine runs cold start enrichment when it's warm .. and that's bad .. It'll kill your fuel economy aswell as destroying the catalyst with all that excess fuel.

Given how cheap it is to get a turbo diesel chipped *properly* to silly outputs why waste time with the old "resistor trick"? After all, you might think it's a rip-off to pay someone £400 to rechip your turbo, but that's nothing compared to the rip-off of paying someone £40 for a 9p resistor..! I call BS on the ebay resistor trick. Prove me wrong! :) You'll never get increased mpg by running the engine with more fuel for the same mass of air - you'll just make larger clouds of black smoke! D. R. Mat.

What the fuck is HHO gas? Um, surely if it's got a H, then another H and an O, that makes H20, or .. duh .. water.. in the gaseous form would be .. vapour.. So in other words this is a water injection system, which people have been using as a charge cooling method for years. Can't help but feel I might be missing the point somewhere ... ???

Yep, at least look for the 328i with the derestricted inlet, good for about 220 bhp. It's considered the baby M3 of it's day. Of course, still weighs 1.5 tonnes..

Plus he will have higher gear ratios than you, so if you were both in the same gear he'd have less mechanical advantage .. could go either way, but it's not as simple as lbft translating directly to metres per second per second..

BMW 320d also weighs about 1.6 tonnes. Your G60 weighs 1.1 tonnes. He NEEDS an extra 40% shove just to accelerate at the same rate as you. It's nowt to do with gearing ..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-2-8-VR6-Engin ... 0238021854

Ask me an easy one why don't ya?? I image there would be a really big torch ... Remote transmission of electrical power is still quite inefficient. Maybe it'll get better.. but I guess if someone believes we can make hundreds of gigawatts of energy on the moon with little or no effort, then losing 70-90% of it on transmission to earth doesn't seem such a big deal.

You'd rather it was CO2 instead, which floats off into the upper atmosphere and traps the heat in, accelerating global warming? There's water vapour in the air anyway. At 20 deg C and 40% humidity the atmosphere contains about 7 gm per cubic metre of water vapour. How many cubic metres do you drive through in one kilometre? Adding your 0.3 gm of water vapour per metre travelled? That is then spread out sideways but mostly above your car (water vapour is less dense than the surrounding air), so it drifts off up into the atmosphere. But it's not poisonous, which is nice.. Seriously dude, it's nothing. ;) But it misses the point. As dinkus says, the answer is to make cars more efficient, not to make them use different fuels. Reality is that transporting petrol about is the most efficient way of distributing energy to moving vehicles (i.e. things that are incapable of being fed by a permanent, fixed electricity supply)

Replaced the header tank cap?

Then I think your charger is pushing up daisies .. Or (extremely unlikely) your battery won't accept charge. If the battery was genuinely gone, I'd expect to see less than 11.6V. Try another charger.