dr_mat

It's probably thicker? If you're using oil it's either leaking out of the engine, or leaking into the engine and getting burnt. Changing oil doesn't fix the leaks, but changing to a thicker oil means that less oil gets squeezed through the gaps ..

.. you need a VSR .. ;) (Not that just a VSR will mean you're leaving Audi RS*s in your wake of course, just that you won't be waiting so long..)

GSF sell the FUCHS equivalent to the silkolene semi-synthetic stuff mentioned above: 98082A FUCHS XTR SEMI SYNTHETIC 10W40 OIL 5L GENERAL USE-SEMI SYNTHETIC(NOT FOR PD ENGINES) 10.70 Or you can go fully synthetic with: 98085A FUCHS SUPERSYN 5W40 OIL 4L MOST APPLICATIONS - GENERAL USE-FULLY SYNTHETIC(NOT FOR PD ENGINES) 15.20

Use a higher DPI and turn down the JPG compression a little..? Looks like a bad case of compression artifacts, but dunno. What resolution are you scanning at? (You're seeing the print on the back of the paper show through a little too - but there's not much you can do about that.)

Not sure what "saught" means ... and colour has a "u"! :-P

I didn't say I thought you'd done the right thing there, just that the seller should have kept his mate informed better .. ! It appears this all boils down to a misunderstanding .. gg7aph thought that he'd agreed to turn up, look at the wheels and make an offer. madscientist thought he'd sold them in a fixed price sale (which is what the forum dictates by the way).. The two never told the guy in the middle what their take on it was (which was pretty dumb!). So, whatever the truth is, IMHO gg7aph you ought to do the right thing and either take the wheels back get your £60 and walk away or cough up the extra £20.

I'm sure there will have been, and I'm sure the manual car will have won .. ;) But I wasn't there if there was and nor am I particularly bothered .. after all, if you take two seemingly identical Corrados completely at random and at 12 years old you can bet that the performance difference between them will be noticeable before you even start factoring in the driver's skill. (BTW: the auto box loses out more and more as speeds increase - there's no doubt that 0-30 in an auto is going to be quick even if the driver is a four year old mongoose, and that it requires a lot more skill to get the same performance out of the manual car, but as speed increases .. e.g. 60-90 in the manual will have a big advantage over the auto box.)

Yeah but you should see how quickly his bank balance decreases compared to yours... ;) There's cars on the road will leave the RS4 for dead too, it's all about money at the end of the day ...

LOL, so true! Get your anorak off and call the guy back and take his damn cash! :)

Shoulda told your mate it was £80 and that he shouldn't sell for less ... ;)

Pretty sure I read a recent post saying that Poly bushes actually tend to last less time .. all that vibration caused by the squeaking/creaking can't be good for them. So in other words: they're less compliant, noisier, harsher and last a shorter time. So why the hell bother? If you want to uprate bushes, look at similar components from newer VWs - e.g. wishbone bushes from an R32 or something like that. Compliance, longevity AND improved track control.

Is that the official VW quoted 0-60 times for the cars? No. Someone else posted those further down .. I smell something ... ;) There will be a very short period of time when the manual car is changing gear (of course), but it has several advantages that more than offset that: - lower gear ratios giving more torque at the road in any given gear (5 vs 4 cogs .. ) - direct connection between crank and wheel gives the engine something to work against - lower drivetrain losses - the auto is slipping all the time, all that slippage translates directly into lost energy It would have to be a pretty ham-footed driver to make the manual car slower than the auto one. Plus on the VR6 there's only one gear change from 0-60.

Bernie is a poison dwarf .. Boss of the most corrupt international "sporting" organisation on the planet. He may have a point about facilities at Silverstone, but that's just because he doesn't feel like he's making enough money from it, and he wants the taxpayer to contribute. Let's face it - the vast majority of the teams are based in the UK and test at Silverstone all the time, so there's little or no chance of them *really* pulling the Silverstone race - the teams wouldn't have it.

I want to select both... I have only one Corrado; I don't need to use it to go to work so I don't feel it's a daily driver; I choose to use it to go to work because it's FUN.

Hell yeah!

I think the 0-60 is about 1-2 seconds slower, so yes, noticeably.

Ah, didn't spot that..

It does, but it's not impossible..

I've heard of a couple of cases of chain snapping, but it is rare. How to tell: put it in gear and roll the car forward/back - if the cams don't move then chains are knacked, because you're *definitely* turning the crank when you do that.

I hope you mean acceleration.. ! :) Yes, the Auto is slower and does less MPG, as you'd expect, but I don't recall the true figures.

See, I've had similar noises and it turned out to be the ABS sensor grinding on the rotor... (Though it could be a bearing too, obviously ..) In fact it could also be the CV joint I think.

Sure it's not some grit stuck in the brake housings, or stuck behind the brake shielding? What makes you think your bearings are knacked anyway?

Better running, more power, more mpg, less cash in your pocket.

You can do an reliable 220-240 bhp with a big valve head, 3.0 rebore, enlarged throttle body .. or so I'm told ..

Douse the fitting in wd40, get a big pair of grips, grab hold of the arm and waggle it till it's free...