dr_mat

Without recalling where the tyre size calculator lives, istr that most people go with either 205/50/15, 205/45/16 or 205/40/17 for VR6 Corrados.

Maybe you would spot it if it was that far out, but it's not hard to find a bit of string with a weight on it .. TBH I think you'd more readily notice a problem with camber from behind the steering wheel - the car would pull one side horribly if a wheel was that far out. You can feel 0.5 degrees of camber, so +1 would do your head in (not to mention your tyres)..

Is this take 2? What were you going to write .. ;) I'm no mechanic either (rarely do I lift a spanner), but I do realise there's no way on earth I'm going to be able to judge +/- 1 degree of camber on a road wheel without a reference .. ! Get a plumb bob (i.e. a string with a weight on it!), hang it at the side of the wheel in the centre of the wheel. The top of the wheel should be around 1 cm FURTHER from the string than the bottom of the wheel is. There you go, a home-made camber gauge.

Is the clutch smooth as you press and lift the pedal..? Could be the master/slave cylinder breaking down, or the fluid in them needs flushing.

You ought to turn the ignition off and back on again after clearing the codes otherwise it don't matter ..

Perhaps a camber gauge? Or at the very least a plumb bob and a ruler??

I hope you used a *slightly* more scientific method of judging the camber than "looking at it"..!

Spot the employee... ;) They still don't sell Goodyear Eagle F1 in 205/50/15 .. because goodyear don't make 'em any more.

What's up with the "bad seller thread"?

Yes.

Also consider that VW state in the manual that from a cold start you should "drive off immediately" for a reason - the pistons just plain don't fit till the engine is warm, so bringing the engine up to temperature *at idle* every morning from ice cold cuts 10s of ks off the engine's lifetime. If you rev it a little instead, the pistons' inertia takes care of much of the damaging oscillation that can happen at low revs.

Starting from cold I'm not surprised to see 1.5 mpg, and 11mpg overall for a short stop/start journey having started from cold is probably not too far from normal either! But your loss of power isn't normal..

The roof often makes noises because of ice around the sunroof opening - it cracks and crunches as the car twists (which they do a LOT these old cars).

Ah, well I'd still suggest it's over-fuelling for some reason.

15mpg and no power - sounds like a lambda probe fault to me. Particularly if it's running really cool, and if you are getting a bunch of black smoke out the back.

Don't you lot read? :roll: :lol: What for? You're here to remind us! ;) They'd still go eventually anyway. No-one ever made a radiator (heater or main) that doesn't.

I assume you've ruled out sticky rear brakes .. ? That can be caused either by faulty calipers or by a badly adjusted/seized rear brake compensator valve.

You're wondering why the heater matrix goes? .. for the same reasons that the main car's radiator goes .. It's made of fine metal fins, and it's heated to 100 degrees on a regular basis. Eventually it will corrode or flex or crack..

It can also be caused by borderline ABS sensors. Just cos the light stays off doesn't mean they're not faulty ..

Maybe I read that they had "improved the design" and took it to mean they'd included it. Still, VW never did a recall on the VR6 for this problem, whatever the design of the matrix. I am looking forward to doing this when my matrix finally lets go. (It can't be long now .... )

They're old cars, what do you expect? The newest (mine!) is over 11 years old.. And given the state of british local roads it's no surprise that the entire interior rattles like an earthquake in a cemetery.

Bargain. Last I heard, VW drop links for the VR6 Corrado were £75 a piece.

Not hard, or particularly expensive, by all accounts. My steering had a variance in it's weight. Sometimes heavy, sometimes light, and the state would change from one to the other after a bit of revs.. That's why I think it's the PAS pump. It's never bad enough to annoy me though. ARB drop links probably need changing too, if they've not been done. Mine were done recently (along with new bottom BJs that also had play in them) and it feels like a new car.. (well at least it's killed off all the suspension clunks).

CAT heatshield? Does it rattle under acceleration on a smooth road at around 2000rpm too?

Yes, you can. The bolt holes on both the damper and the hub carrier are elongated to along for camber adjustment. Tell me about it. My camber is currently -0.3 on the f/l and -1.0 on the f/r .. well it pulls to the left a bit !!! It will be fixed in the next day or so ..