20valver

Very very very nice mate. :lol: If you ever need to sell it, i'll bite your hand off!!!

Well I've just had a look at Tom's VR...and well......I think that 8.5 would be money very very very well spent. The car looks perfect on my screen!!!! :lol:

Have you tried using redex? I put it in every so often. It made a big difference in cold starts and general running after the first time i used it. It's only about a fiver, so it's worth a go.

I've just spent about a bit on my stereo and am well chuffed with the difference. Your right, there 5" in the doors, then 10cm in the dash and then a pair of 6X4 either side of the parcel shelf. It's easy to get at the dash speakers, just get a flat head screwdriver and pop them out from the nearest edge(they just clip in and out so don't be scared!). The set up I have gone for runs everything off my a Rockford Fosgate 500x amp. I've got a set of JBL component speakers upfront, mids in the doors, tweeters mounted on homemade mounts under the dash speaker grills, and the crossover units stashed away behind the footwell air vents. This is then balanced out with a 8" sub in the boot to give quality sound!! The amp sends high freq. to the front, and sends the low freq. to the sub. One thing I cound do with doing is getting a pair of 6x4 speakers for the back, because at the moment it is apparently lacking a bit of high freq. sound in the back, but hey I don't intend being drivin anywhere in this car so.....unlucky people in the back!!!!!! I don't own a taxi!!!! :lol:

I had a laugh with an EVO 6 this morning in my 16V!!!!! Don't know if it was just how he was driving, but on the straights he would pull away very quickly, but then I was reeling him back in on every corner!!!! Stuck with him passing 15-20 cars/lorries on the A6 after Chesterfield. Great stuff!!!! :lol: I need a VR6!!!!!!!!

1991 16v with...wait for it....yes a whoping 141,950!!!

trust me it is easy....and well worth it coz the sound quality is mint!! basically a some speaker wire takes sound from my amp to one of the crossovers(one per side) and then the crossover is attached to a tweeter speaker and a mid speaker by speaker wire. When the sound reaches the crossover it sends low frequency one way...mid, and the high frequency the other way....tweeter. Thats it!!! simple..... :lol:

I've just fitted some JBL 5" components upfront. I mounted the tweeters on an angle in the dash, and the mids in the doors, with the crossovers stashed away in the center console by the footwell. I have a 8" sub at the minute, soon to be 12" in the boot, and all the speakers are ran off a Rockford Fosgate 500x amp which is also in the boot. 4 Channel, 2 channels for the comps. 2 bridged for the sub. I plan on getting some 6X4 kenwood custom fir speakers for the rear at some time in the future, but as I don't sit in the back, I don't really care if it sounds all bassy back there!! The sound off this set up is mint! oh and I have also sound deadnd the doors with flashing tape whiched helped a lot, and is much cheaper than dyno-matt!

Just a note: I've fitted some JBL 5" components, and these have big deep magnets. I think anything of the right diameter will fit in these door pockets.

Your going to need an amp wiring kit to hook up hook everything up. This will include a live cable, which you will have to run from your +ve battery terminal through the car to your boot. when you get it there attach it to your amp, and then you'll need an earth cable, which you attach from the amp to something that will earth it in the boot. Thats the power sorted....and know you will need either RCA lead or high end input leads. These carry the sound to the amp from the HU. The kit should include an RCA lead, so run this down the middle of the car, (try and keep it away from live, interferance) and simply plug this into the amp. That should be it if you only run the sub of the amp. Good luck anyways, it's a simple job...just remember not to put the fuse in the live cable until you have completed all of the wiring!! 8)

I have a similar problem to you. Mine starts at about 2800 and then fades just of 3400. Mine also has got no louder or quieter over time, and the temp of the engine doesn't effect the noise either. Any ideas why anyone?

Does anyone know the max possible depth for the mids in the front? I have a 1991 C, with the old style pockets.

Toyo Proxey T1's : Nothing comes close in the wet, and wear pritty well too.

Right I'm a bit confused after that lot. My caliper seized this morning(only one of them). :evil: I have a 1991 16v C. What the cheapest fix? One MK3 caliper....(direct fit???) Replace them both....(The other will prob go anyway????) Or is it advised togo down the MK4 and hoses option......Skint, so not really an option.

To get to your top strut mounts, you'll have to jack your C up and slide out the shocks. The top strut mounts are attached to the top of the shocks. I replaced mine when I did all my shocks and springs(the old top strut mounts were shagged to the point that the bearing housing had been chrushed!). It made a huge difference, but unfortunatly I still have moments when my C wants to steer itself. I think its down to a mixture of the camber in the road, big rims, and worn suspension bushes, but I am yet to get an expert to have a look. Post up how you get on.

well it missed for me. didn't change the blades though. but think i'm going with lupo's now

Cheers i'll have a look for one.......

and me......

As a 1.8 16v owner this all seams very tempting. Has anyone completed such work on high milage engines before? Mine has done 140,000 and not how well it will handle much modding. Another thing, what sort of prices have you been looking at for this sort of work? What have you paid if you have had the work done? And where is reccomended to get the work done?

Not for me...

Sounds good enough to me too!!

Thats a good question! I'm not sure of the answer anyway, and I'm running 17's myself. Come on someone must know some psi's!!!

One day......a mate had failed to close my passenger door first time and I had reached accross to do it properly myself, he then grabbed the handle at the last minute himself, so we were both on the lever/handle at the same time as the door slammed to be permenantly shut!! :evil: Gutted to say the least I managed to remove the handle and peel back the top corner of the door card. I was able to remove the handle because when you pull the handle or the lever the door opens a few mm, so I could just access the head of the screw needed. From this possiton the door can be forced click back into a fully closed position. Has anyone had a similar prob to this in the past?? If so how did you get that door open?!?!?! :cry:

Did you have any luck? I have a similar problem and have done for some time. It effected the car when I had 15" on and now I have 17" it is got worse. I have play in the wheel where I can wiggle the wheel about 3/4" each way with no effect on the diection on the wheels. This play has a big effect on steering, and when leaving corners getting straight can be a bit of a tug-a war with the camber of the road. My guess is the steering bushes but not got under it to check yet. Hopefully tonight will have the chance. let us know how you get on with yours.

I have a two mile drive to work and with a lot of stop start and waiting in traffic, I get between 15 and 20. But generally on short blasts its just under the 25 mark. However I have recorded 46 over about 30 miles before, but where the fun in that!!!