olly elworthy

yeap you just need to remove a circlip slide of the toothed wheel, and swap the hall senders over,,

i was thinking of putting the 3.5 bar FPR i have spare on mine until i get it mapped as a safety measure,, gonna be doing a FMIC at the same time too,, as seems pointless me spending £££ on a remap if i havent done all the mods i want first,, just gotta decide what cam i want to use,, Mike what cam are you using? i cant decide on a kent 266 shrick copy 268/276 or the piper G60 cam,, decisions decisions

i have a piece of wood with a hole routered out the same shape as the nut,, works atreat like a big wooden spanner,, caveman style,,,, :lol:

thanks for that,, been thinking aboutthe red tops with the big valve head,, dont wanna be going lean with the new head flowing allot better,,,

hey henny what injectors do you run?

and me too I have had my big valve head on my bedside cabinet for the past three months think i am going to fit it on saturday morning,, :D

henny the amount of times your head has been off i`d of thought you would of put wing nuts on it by now matey,,, :D :wink:

thats some fuelling!!! what sort of power do you think you are running?

what injectors you using kieth?

too big looks like a tonka toy!!

ignition switch is worth checking,,

gsf will sell you KS bearing shells which are excellent quality,, for the rod bolts i think i would go with VW, :thumbleft:

yes you can do this with ethe engine in situ just a means of dropping the sump and oil pump so you can get at them all,, be sure to use new rod bolts too when you do this,,

i had a valver that was running like theis the bottom crank bolt came loose and sheared the keyway out of the bottom cam belt pulley,,the extra advance was needed on the dizzy to correct the timing although the crank and cams where out of phase, it kept getting slower and slower then i noticed the crank pulley was wobbling,, check the timing between the flywheel and the cam for an idea, if it looks dodgy check that crank bolt,, dont keep driving like this as if it goes all together you will bend your valves, if the crank bolt is loose strip the cam belt etc and pulley off and inspect the keyway, mine was totally sheared,, edit edit,,,, :cuckoo: I should really read all the pages before posting my replies,,, doh,,i`ll leave it here anyway,,, :wink:

nice site with interesting info,,

hmm looks like i`m gonna have to take a trip up to Darrens once i fit my big valve head too then!! my car has 68mm pulley and just covered 80000 miles too,,, should be similar,,

could be piston rings, i.e. compression going past the rings and into the sump

THATS WHAT HAPPENED TO MINE, SO I TOOK THE RUBBER OFF AND FILED IT WHERE IT BELONGS,,, IN THE BIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :lol:

redline MTL in mine,,

pics please :D

aquamist has allot smaller pump which there is room to fit in the engine bay on a corrado,,,

I change my oil every 2.5K,, is this excessive? way i see it oil and filter is cheap,, :wink:

you can get an integra SI we have one of those too about 170 brake,, or even a basic integra as an import with less power than that,, even a vr6 is no match for a standard integra type r,,, the supercharged integra type r I built has 260 bhp,, with a shed load of torque to go with it,,, :evil:

i know how good both of them are, and the integra runs rings round a raddo even in standard form,, dont get me wrong i love my raddos but the integra is streets ahead of it,,,

honda is a damn sight lighter, If you want a fast reliable FWD coupe buy an integra type R as it is the best you can get,, LSD standard and phenominal handling,, they are awesome,,