boost monkey

good idea mate, i've found some replacement top plates now so i don't mind cutting these ones up. bit annoyed they changed the allen key inset from 7mm to 6mm now though. Argh.

Glad you got it sorted and have the kind of readies to get the work done!

Woah, your car been stolen much?! :shock: Am I right in thinking you have an aftermarket start switch then? The ignition switch should fit straight onto the larger connected you have labelled. You can test it will start the car with something small and pointy (like a key). If you are looking to rewire that connector then I'm sure someone can post up a wiring diagram.

yeah i've just cleaned it up and it's fine, still has the VW Audi part number on too. You have PM with payment details :salute:

:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: that would be awesome. Andrew has just jetted off to Amsterdam for a week on business, but I prob won't try this until next week sometime anyways. Is your friend called Graham and does he have 3 Audis? I hear he's a good guy.

yeah i'm not sure why my top plates are so gay. On an old audi of the same era we could easily get the ring spanner on with a bit of scaffold on the end and it was easy peasy! my plates seem really narrow :/

cool, thanks for letting me know. My car sits at 100 most of the time, but I've known it to hit 104 (this is reading from oil temp as my coolant gauge doesn't work) when stuck in major traffic, although it returns back to 102 fairly regularly. Perhaps I have just had bad luck with pipes!

Yeah I've just dug it out, it's the matrix pipe for sure. Mine still has what looks like a good flange on it too if you need one? How does £15 posted with the flange sound? Jon :salute:

Had a quick think when I popped up the road earlier. Could my pipes be bursting cos they are staying too hot, or are they designed to work at a constant 90+ degrees (may sound like a silly question!) Also, my over-run rad switch has never worked so I just swapped that out. I doubt pipes like being 100 degrees when they could easily be 90 or less. No idea if this has made a difference yet, I'll have to wait until my next drive and see if the fan stays on after I get out.

mmm, as karmann said. When I have my car up in the air and put it back on it's wheels I always do the "bump the wing" up and down scenario just so I don't look like a tractor! Springs on the C are fairly stiff though so it's not as satisfying as other cars I've had :lol:

I have random spares off my spare 1.8 valver. I'll have a look at my car for reference this avo and then see if I can dig out that pipe for you. Is it one of the heater matrix pipes? I'm trying to place it in my head.

I did the trigonometry a few weeks ago, and dropping a car by 40mm with set damper and wishbone lengths will make the wishbones run at approximately 6degrees above horizontal. Any more and the degree of wishbone elevation will obviously be greater. I would hypothesise that as the wishbone is running at a different angle, the forces on the ARB and bushes could have possibly been changed enough to have a detrimental affect on handling. Plus, i've been in the car and it does snag a little in each direction sometimes.

You know what? Having the rear seats down whilst moving out of my student digs has made me think that it's the REAR wheel bearing that making a noise now :nuts: I am awesome.

bro those wheels were so slick you could wrap a leather jacket around the sides and people would think it's the Fonz :lol:

yeah I have a 7mm Sykes-Pickavant allen key which is about 6" long on both sides of the 'L', but the new dampers have a 6mm female allen in the top! Why is it never easy?

Chemical Metal!! yesss, that's the stuff. yellow tube! ha ha :grin:

i have a dropped head spanner, but the arm is 45degrees between head and bar and it catches on the cup section of the mount before I can get it over the 22mm nut. I will have a look at those spanners though! Cheers for the help.

you could use Liquid Metal on the wheel lettering, it's like a 2-part metal glue/filler I think.

ah yes they do buddy, but I need a hole in the top to get the allen key in aswell!

Hi team, trying to fit my boge turbos, and the top brass plates (what's THE name for these? I can never remember) on the car currently have a dished section which is too narrow to get my 22mm drop-ring spanner into. Any suggestions? Toad has filed flats into his socket to overcome this problem (i.e. being able to use a 6/7mm allen key to stop the damper rotating with the top nut) but if someone knows where I can get a more acute angle drop ring spanner, or a 22mm socket with external flats I would be greatly appreciative. Thanks :grin:

as the brakes aren't electronic I would say you will still be able to stop, the brakes may lock up though. it's just like driving with broken PAS: it's a bit different, but perfectly do-able. but i'll let someone confirm :nuts:

forgot to say I that Prodigal pulled my plugs the other day just for a look (and despite idling for about 10 mins to check the thermostat, it failed to restart! very odd) and all the plugs were a sandy colour! Just a nice thing to see when you car has been a bit :| for a while. But now i'm moved out, I can put on the febi parts (plugs [not needed], rotor arm, dizzy, dizzy cap, ignition coil) and if I can pick up some new earth straps, I think I might just have a brand new ignition system....ish.

Someoen has taked ma BBS! Now I am cry. Seriously though, what a weekend! I'm mid moving out of the death house of much doom and sanitational mingage, and we still managed TWO complete wheel changes, doing your pads, about 6 runs to and from the DHOMDASM via the tip! Good work brosephine :grin:

it's getting there cheers! I moved all of the heavy metal today which wouldn't have been possible without your help :grin:

p.s. Dec is a legend :notworthy: :luvlove: