boost monkey

p.s. sorry for all the lack of pics this last week, I've moved house and not bothered setting my desktop up as i'm moving again in October.

So, I did my ignition parts today. The spark plugs looked like a mediterranean beach so i left them in (triple electrodes though, not used them before [replacements from BERU were triples also]) I changed the rotor arm and dizzy cap, plus put the new ignition coil on. the coil earth strap was in good condition so I left it, and all seems well. I tried to swap out the dizzy itself but the one on the spare engine has a rotor arm stuck to it, so I had to leave that off. Another day maybe...

urgh, it's to do with Elaktrizatees isn't it. pwnage :(

yeah, there's always so many variable to consider :/ a CAD designed bonnet vent / bay ventilation / intake system is something I would love to get involved in. Dissertation material perhaps?

Krispy Krunch?! I want a Krispy Kreme

:lol:

yeah that's them :salute: I'm in winchester this saturday for a wedding, maybe I take it down for you :norty:

I would agree with Kev and Jonathan's theories: When the bonnet is open, intake air is slightly cooler and consequently slightly more dense. This increases the power and torque at low rpms, but as the air has more mass and is colder it flows slower at the top end which results in a dip on both graphs. Bonnet shut is the diametric opposite of this: When the bonnet is shut, intake is slightly hotter and consequently less dense. This reduces the power and torque at low rpms, but as the air has less mass and is warmer it flows faster at the top end which results in a peak (matching and passing the bonnet open plots) on both graphs. My 2p. Jon.

if you weld an inlet manifold, don't ever plan to run over 2 bar (if memory serves). You will literally do a "Fast and Furious" (blow the welds on the intake manifold)

do we really need to be encouraging him? :lol: well done toad, let me know when you do the bodywork. I'll bring up some white hammerite tins and some rollers.

right here yo: click me

Micheldever is the size of a small manhole cover yo. there's only one tyre place there, IIRC it's near the station or out in the sticks (both about 100yds apart). I took my red peugeot 205 there yeeeaarrrsss ago. Good guys.

Ah yeah, course. Making sense now :D Sounds like you're keeping busy with the whole thing! I hope to get back into a lot of CAD designs when term starts :salute:

does the exhaust smell really strongly of fuel? If so, you need to read page 1 of my project thread. I had like 8 problems at once including the 3000rpm idle.

He ain't lyin. cam chains for that extra special rattle :nuts:

Micheldever is Winchester way brodorino :salute:

could you not tap into each of the 4 inlet tracts on the head side of the inlet manifold and inject your dinitrogen monoxide formula there?

metallic grey valver on G60 steels! :notworthy:

Shame on all you G60 boys! I don't even have one, and even I know that hesitation and accelerative jerkiness can be related to the blue temp sensor, and no-one has even mentioned it :shock: At the very least, it's worth a check. And it's an easy check at that (and a cheap replacement!) :salute: hope this helps, Jon.

No probs, always good to help fellow C owners out! I'll post in the morning, you'll get it thurs.

PV/T is a constant you are right :D Yeah i'm running the blue expansion tank. I changed the stat the other day, purely because I thought if it wasn't opening when it should, obviously the water in the pipes would keep getting hotter and hotter and expand and could cause damage to the pipes. The last 2 pipes broke in the same place which was kinda odd, maybe I had 2 dodgy pipes but then again they were both 2nd hand (one came on the car, and the other was from my 80k mile block)

two pages of goodness right here

can you post up any pics? mainly of the dizzy cap and rotor arm. Also, it could be your dizzy itself which is fooked. the white deposits will be a coolant leak, probably from the flange below the dizzy which has a pipe running to the bulkhead and into the heater matrix on the other side. Glad the oil is clean, but it shouldn't really get mucky by itself! Ditto Dec's idea of checking vacuum pipes, they can definitely lead to the car juddering or kangarooing slightly. Also, check your earth leads when you're doing the ignition system: big one on the battery down to underneath the washer bottle and the ignition coil one which goes to the corner of the block (i think).

ah yeah, good call :nuts: If I do it'll prob be with a dremel, so less margin for destroying suspension turrets!

Ah I see. I reckon if you take that wire out (and the 2 small blue connectors) you should be able to plug an OEM switch up to the large connector.