pete_griff

fla speaks wise words! also, yes quantum silver 10/40 should do just fine, and yes, change the oil filter - it's recommended practice to change the oil filter at the same time as every oil change anyway (and they're not expensive!)

if you want a definitive answer, go to your local plumbing outlet and buy a 180 degree (although a 90 will also work) piece of copper fitting of a size to fit into your coolant hoses. plumb that into the hoses where they run through the bulkhead and into the matrix (i.e isolate and cut off the matrix from the circuit) then run the car around for a couple of days and see if the carpets dry out. if they do start to dry then you have your answer! also if you're doing the matrx (which is what it almost certainly is anyway) then it's worth doing the bowden cables at the same time - that way you'll avoid any sticky heater control issues in future. edit - also i would NEVER even CONSIDER k-seal, radweld etc etc unless is had absolutely no cash AND was selling the car soon. ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE STUFF (IMO)

also for the record - Weitec are actually a (cheaper) subsidiary company of KW (afaik). check out the similarities in the shocks and particularly the adjustable plastic spring seats between your weitecs and the kw's i had on my car. you may pay more for the kw's, but seeing as they apparently come from the same company - that would suggest that you're paying more for a reason... also for the record (and in my humble opinion obviously) - driving is a bit like sex; we all think we're awesome at it until someone comes along and tells us the ugly truth that we aren't, at which point the ego deflates somewhat!!!

chin up chap - you'll soon get back into the swing of things and get "the bug" again once you get stuck in and start sorting it all out :D

in theory that works, but tbh, you'll probably find that you need to do the rears as well - air has a nasty habit of finding it's way in when you've got the system open... try by all means obviously - if it was me though i wouldn't waste the time and i'd just bleed the lot from the off. at least you know your fluid is totally 100% then too. if you have any eezibleed kit then you're laughing anyway!

certainly for the KW's they are the same. you can specify different spring rates when you buy the shockers new (which is a good idea anyway, as even with the vr you should go for the softer front springs for better turn-in; IMO of course), but that's about it. IMO KW's are the way to go - i had a set of V3's and was very happy with them, despite the fact i never even got round to getting them set up properly! i' unsure about other manufacturers and whether their shockers are different between the different models of corrado; but i would hazard a guess that they're not different...

:) Wise.Or find one with a Corrado. The holy grail. 8) possibly.... but then you'll both be walking and pi$$ed off together!!!

:lol: so am i kind of if i could pronaunce their names :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

"The Corrado" - splitting couples up since 1988! :lol:

very 8)

my average for 2-weeks combined usually hover around the 19mpg mark! :wink: (and no joking - i'm on a first name basis with all the staff at my local shell garage!!!)

glad you're happy with it pal - good news 8) mine gets 29 on a run at the mo and about 15-16 about town. that said i'll be doing a water pump/thermostat/temp sender and coolant change shortly which should hopefully give me maybe 1 more mpg as i've heard the thermostats go lazy and run thecar a little cool on older bmw v8's... also thinking about getting my injectors cleaned just as a matter of course before long. seeing as yours has great history etc i guess you can just sit back and enjoy trouble free motoring for now (touches wood!). really pleased you're happy with it pal. will have to show you what an extra 600cc's will do for you when we meet again :wink: only thing i wouls check is the state of the brakes - they're unlikely to be like mine, but the sliders design is just crap. there a pic at the bottom of where my pads had seized onto my carriers and worn a groove in - had to file them flat before i re-fitted it all... get some more pics of it up when you can pllllleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaassssseee :D

tis true - i had a set and they are nicely made. the only drawback with the dubpower leads over oem jobbies is that they can be slightly more difficult to remove, due to them not having the metal outer with lugs on like the oem items. yes they do have those rubber handle things, but they aren't really long enough for the job and you'll stuggle to get your hands onto them (unless pete has revised the design since i bought mine quite a while ago now). regardless of that though they are still nice, good leads and very good value for money Yes Pete they have change the metal sleeve is the same as the VW ones, they whole lead is identical in every way. schweeeeeeeeeeeeeet! - buy the dubpower leads then without question! :D

tis true - i had a set and they are nicely made. the only drawback with the dubpower leads over oem jobbies is that they can be slightly more difficult to remove, due to them not having the metal outer with lugs on like the oem items. yes they do have those rubber handle things, but they aren't really long enough for the job and you'll stuggle to get your hands onto them (unless pete has revised the design since i bought mine quite a while ago now). regardless of that though they are still nice, good leads and very good value for money

hey pal, glad to hear it's coming along. without jynxing the whole thing, i don't recon you'll find too much wrong with it - get it in bits and you'll have it back together and be driving it before you know it :wink:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

^^^what he said!^^^

unfortunately the rear calipers on corrados are a particularly $hit design. it could be your handbrake cables have seized, so try giving them some attention first as that's a quick and easy (and cheap!) fix. more likely though is that the pads have seized on the carriers as is common with corrados. depending on how long you've had the car anyway, it certainly wouldn't hurt to give them a strip down and clean. depending on how fooked the pads have got from driving with them seized on you may also need new pads and possibly even discs depending on the severity of things (though discs is less likely unless they're old and fooked anyway). if you're doing rear discs, then for the price of it you may as well do the rear bearings at the same time too. pads is personal choice and obviously depends on how hard you drive the car. if you're an "average" driver and don't constantly give it the beans then a standard set of pads should do for you. see your local VW dealer for the pads and defo for all the other items. depending on where in the country you are, i can also recommend DG Autotech if you're in need of a garage to do it all for you.

while you can get at it it's going to be worth doing chains/tensioners, clutch and water pump at the least. as for the matrix, just buy a genuine one - they seem to last the longest. also if you've got the dash out it's worth doing the bowden cables (the cables that control the heater box from the controls), they go "sticky" and stiff with age and mak the controls difficult to use and cause the crap fragile bits of plastic in the controls to start breaking. depending on your budget obviously, it's also worth just dropping the sump and seeing what your bottom end is like while you're doing the rest of it. normally on vr's yu can get away with just new bearings and the rest of the bottom end is usually pretty spotless. also worth consiering is a head rebuild (i.e. new tappets, valves and guides). thing is you could go on forever with the list. seeing as yours has done 90k though i would go in this order of priority: water pump chains/tensioners clutch head rebuild bottom end inspection and probably a new set of bearings accordingly do the matrix and cables no matter what if you've got the dash out - they're not really expensive and are a bitch to get to if you need to revisit the area in future due to not doig it now. edit - it's also worth thinking about what sort of nick the engine mounts are in, as there's obviously no better time to change them than now

:clap: :clap: :clap: great news - good for you James. really looking forward to seeing all the pics as it takes shape :D

very very nice pal :D is there any chance you could swap the 540 exhaust for an m5 item? i would have thought they would be very similar up front..... the standard m5 system sounds very good (IMO of course) - it's not too loud, but you still know the car is a bit special. along the same sort of lines as an rs6 if you've ever had the aural pleasure... :D like this

haha - typical! the weight of these wouldn't have anything to do with the fact you're interested would it?!? when i first saw these i thought "ooohh - those are nice, very light too..... Kev would like those!" :lol: )

you have to be on your way to an MOT if you're just running normal plates - the law allows that no matter what plate you've got on. (and will obviously allow you to do that without tax too as you need to have an MOT to get tax). the only thing you need i insurance. if you're running trade plates then afaik you can drive anthing, anywhere - what would be the point in trade plates otherwise?!?

Nice one, check the car still has MOT though, as i'm sure trade plates only cover the tax and insurance side of things, wouldnt want you getting pulled for it. trade plates will allow you to drive anything! i would do a compressioin test before you go anywhere as that should be a good indicator as a start. i would also be wary of taking it for too much of a "good run out". by all means get it warmed up and take it down the road to burn off any residual water that might be lurking, but if water is getting in then you will be doing more harm than good. best of luck getting it all sorted anyhow...

there's a bit of "kick" trim under the shelf in the passenger footwell. it's on the side of the car, just in front of the door-gap. water can get in there if you have a dodgy scuttle seal etc (mine was badly corroded the first time i had it apart). worth checking there as a starting point as it's only two screws to take the panel off iirc. (you'll have to take the plug off the module to see it obviously and then it should be obvious if water/corrosion has in-set)