pete_griff

i have driven fast cars most of my life (impreza wr1, evo, now an m5) trust me - the 'rado is feckkkkkkkking rapid when properly setup and running 100% :) nice interior btw 8)

sorry to hear that for you pal :( guess the only way to look at it is that you will know 100% that you have a good engine after all this. do you recon the engine was like that before you bought it - bit crap if that's the case... how is the crank itself - any marks? even if there are marks i guess seeing as you've caught it early you'll probably get away with just a polish i've never seen a vr crank in the flesh but they are weird looking things - only a few people across the whole country that can properly balance them etc so i'm told (might be worth invesigating seeing as you're taking it out...)

hey Henny, glad to hear the mystery has finally been solved. when you had all the cnc head work done originally didn't you get new valves/springs/guides at the same time? that said that's pretty shocking news about the springs - i've never heard of that happening, even with running high-lift cams. sounds quite odd... wasn't there ever a rattling if one of the springs was broken?

really pleased to hear you've got the car back and are happy with it pal - great news :clap: roll on 999 miles! :grin:

that's crap luck - sorry to hear that Doug. my guess on the oil galleries would be that the pump feed goes straight up to the filter housing (as on most cars) and then the oil galleries go from the centre (i.e from the oil filter) out to either end of the engine, which would explain the initial signs of wear on the outermost bearings (not too much i take it...) - top man for catching it this early as well :D i can't say for certain as i know nothing about any previous issues on the subject, but that would be my guess. any progress on the car anywhere else pal? :)

the seats go so well with the dash - the whole interior package you've done from the carpets to the headlining looks the absolute business. i really like where you're taking the car here Doug - top work and good taste 8)

i'm glad the car is feeling together now Tom. also glad i could save you the hasstle of refurbing all your own kit - it's amazing the amount of difference having all newrunning gear makes isn't it! glad to see you're finally starting to enjoy it for what it is :D

I know!! It's ridiculous the utter crap some garages spout to their customers. I can see why someone might say that, although a system should seal perfectly well without any paste (and makes things a darn sight easier if you want to remove, reuse parts) some stainless systems do seem to expand and contract a large amount which I'd have thought doesn't mix well with liberally appled paste. But then if paste has been applied to seal an exhaust that has an underlying fitment problem, how long is it going to seal for anyway? most of the aftermarket systems i've seen, while of decent quality wouldn't seal up without any paste/silicone in my experience. you would have to do the clamps up very tight for it to seal - as you say with expansion/contraction the joint would soon leak (in my experience anyway). if you've done the joint up "reasonably" tight, then it shouldn't move at all and the paste/sealer will just fill the tiny little nooks that wouldn't seal from just the clamp on it's own. haven't you seen the tiny little black streaks that appear on a joint without any paste on where the gas escapes.... i've also seen that high-temp silicone sealer you're on about MikkiJayne - its surprisingly good stuff isn't it. can you just buy it from any old motor factors?

as Kev said, as long as you have decent clamps and they are done up tight enough, you shouldn't have any issues. also i don't see why you can't use exhaust paste on a stainless sytem - stupid suggestion IMO! (not aimed at you 3CM - but the garage who told you that) also, be aware that if you're fitting a magnex backbox, while they are very nice, they won't allow you to fit an uprated rear ARB without taking a hammer etc to the side of the backbox as they foul on eachother if left as stock. that's obviously only applicable though if you have/are going to fit an uprated rear ARB :)

especially not if it's the one governing your fuel pressure reg like the one in the picture above! the car would run rough if that wasn't connected - it manages fuel pressure!

nice! 8) thanks for the consideration there too - not wanting to be cheeky, but i do miss my old car and i recon i will return to corrado ownership again at some point, just not for a while....

i'm unsure as i frankly know nothing about the 4-cylinder engines in corrados, but...... if you're interested i'll shortly have a certified working helix cltch for a vr6 for sale. i THINK that the vr6 clutch/flywheel is a straight swap for the g60 items, but hopefully someone will confirm that for me. i'm after £150 for the clutch which is a bargain considering it's basically brand new and they cost about £350 if you want one in the box... (the only thing is that it will likely take about another week - not sure if this fits in with your timescale... also you'd have to source a vr flywheel in the mean-time) i'm really sorry to hear you're having all these woes - talk about it all coming at once!!! that's properly crap for you also - i know it's EVEN MORE MONEY, but seeing as you're going to all these lengths with the engine, it will DEFINITELY be top priority to make sure the charger is all A-OK and itsn't going to grenade itself anytime soon. i'm sure you know that if the charger did f*ck up, then it would most likely take the rest of the engine with it and you would be back exactly where you are now... G-Werks are the people to speak to about charger rebuilds, in all fairness if you can afford it, then now would be a good time to send them the charger as it's already off the car. please keep us updated with progress - good luck :D

congratulations pal - she's lovely, good for you. looking forward to seeing her when i'm down next, hope she doesn't keep you awake at night too much! :D

eeeek - that's nasty! :? bet that squeaked/clonked and had play like dog!

hey pal, the best way to make sure 100% that you have enough oil in the box is to make sure the car is totally level and that the engine/box are cold. as long as this is the case, undo the filler bolt and slowly pour oil in until it starts to weep back out. if you have done all of the above then yes, you have enough oil in the box :) also as Tom said, your issue sounds more like the clutch not disengaging properly to me the issues for this as mentioned above could be: slave cylinder clutch release fork master cylinder cluch flexi line release bearing or clutch itself (though much less likely) if it was me i would investigate the above possible issues in that order... also are you having trouble getting all the gears at speed or is it just 1st/2nd/3rd... if that's the case, then it's more likely to adjustment issues, but that didn't sound like that was the case from what you wrote... please let us know how you get on pal :)

hey pal, hows progress coming here - have you managed to get anything else sorted?..... hope all is well :)

awwwww - you've got the cream leather interior as well... yours is possibly my "perfect" corrado Ian. it's been lovely watching it going through the final stages and the car is a total credit to you. really pleased that you're more or less happy with it now. btw if you can get hold of one (almost impossible to get cheap but....) i would use an R32 steering wheel. not only will it look the nuts and suit the car, but they feel totally at home in your hands - one of nicer wheels i've felt to drve with. i also know exactly what you mean about them feeling so quick; like i said in other posts, i now own an evo 6 and it has felt slow ever since i got my hands on it. granted it corners like a rabbit on speed, but it really doesn't feel like it could touch the corrado on a straight, REALLY not touch it! i would be very interested to know what sort of figures yours is making with your cams - have you had it remapped? mine had been remapped and had sports cats, power pullies, aftermarket manifold etc and only through two wheels which is why i recon it felt so rapid. like i said before, first gear was totally unusable for anything other than pulling away - even in the dry on a hot day!!! get some more pics up for us please :grin: (oh, very cheeky but.... should you ever decide you're too old for it and come to sell it - i would be VERY interested in taking it off your hands :wink: ) keep up the good work pal :D

seats, dash, carpet, doorcards, "CCU" - all looking minty mint and in the best of taste. definitely one of the most interesting threads on here Doug - top work chap :clap:

agreed - look just how the top of the stud has been totally mashed in from the impact. it would have had to have hit something really solid and hit it really hard to do that. i had problems when i had my engine delivered - do couriers just not seem to realise how much they f*ck up peoples days when things like this happens, really makes me angry :censored: i recon you'd be best off getting another head as the general census seems to be on here. really sorry you're having these problems pal, don't loose heart - the rado will put a big smile on your face once it's all finished :grin:

and when are you going to have vortech fitted and the car totally finished by - March??!?

you could remote mount the brake reservoir in front of the turret there. alternatively, make a big hole in the inner wing/chassis leg and take the pipework down through there - lets have some creativeness - you've not been shy with the rest of it after all! :D

hey less of the old!!! i was 24 when i insured it and i'm currently 25... OK??!!! :lol: i can drive anything up toand including an artic and i have got my advanced licence as well though which all helps. plus when you've got something like that they look at what cars you've had previously and seeing as i've always had reasonably fast cars, it puts me in good stead...

haha - good to see you're already testing the water there... if there's really no room at all at the front of your car you'd probably be best off looking at a chargecooler setup similar to bobby's off here (think his username is b5vwc or something similar) - either way you're best off binning the thin plastic stock intake for a short-runner. Dave (CrazyDave off here) at DG Autotech is draughting one up as we speak i think, but i recon he'll have slowed progress due to the influx of wor DG have ad since they've opened. if you're seriously considering it then give Dave a nudge - maybe you can "test" the prototype! :wink:

when i insured mine i paid £800 fully comp with absolutely everything declared. i also managed to get an agreed valuation of £7k out of them (HIC). admittedly mine had more expensive bits like my KW v3's, quaife etc and all the work that had gone into refurbing all the running gear which i sent them pictures of, but i would aim for at least 6k on the agreed valuation. obvioulsy you're not going to get that if you try and sell the car as a whole package as i can testify to. but the work you've put into it and the parts accumilated in it are worth more than 6k... at the end of the day i couldn't sell my car as a whole deal for 7k, but i made over a grand more than that selling it all off in bits, and that's at prices heavily discounted to what i paid for the bits - just goes to show you what people are prepared to pay for cars; look at Chris's 24v now - he can't shift it for 2.5k - madness!

haha - when i had mine running it had a lightened flywheel - 1st was unusable for anything other than tickling away; put your foot down and it would spin all day. it was that bad that you could already be moving (say doing 10mph) and put your foot down in 1st and it would still spin - crazy! :nuts: they are wicked fun aren't they?! Ian would it not be simpler just to fit a different final drive? although i do realise you are a little bored of working on it now!