pete_griff

unless you're planning on refurbing your rad support panel/crossmember (as they are the parts that always suffer from rust), there's no need to remove them to take the engine/gearbox out - they will come out as one, just make sure you guide them out nicely to avoid fouling stuff. the rest of the above is spot on though :) what are you replacing the VR with? - another VR, or something more fruity?

definitely agree with that - it would make sense to put a smaller one on the crank rather than elsewhere

to be honest, it will be a good excuse to change your fluid (unless you have done it recently)... i wouldn't bother, i would just change the fluid as it's not expensive.

i just bolted it on and set it to the maximum setting. with running my 312's and soon to be brembo 323's braking will be plenty powerful at the front, so i can afford to send realistically as much to the rear as the valve will allow. looking to get the 280 rear upgrade at some point as well... if you are running standard brakes still then you may want to consider getting it set up properly at a place that can measure brake load...

nice little list of upgrades there - lovely looking car. looking forward to when it gets force fed! :D

that's a very valid point - i guess it depends what you want from the car and how you drive it. i really should have weighed the difference between the standard and the neuspeed items as i was very surprised at just how much of a difference there was. it would be interesting to hear from any standard r32 owners who have gone for the aftermarket pullies; as i recon that you could notice a difference (albeit probably a very small one) just by changing the pulley alone. (the neuspeed ally PAS pulley that comes in the kit is an underdrive item anyway, obviously helping the difference further...) from pullies alone, the difference will probably be minor, if at all noticable. when you combine that with different flywheel/clutch etc, i guess that's when it's going to far more noticable. i would really like to compare the difference with the way my car will run once it's all sorted hopefully after this weekend with a standard r32 corrado... KipVR - you need to get yours finished asap! :)

i didn't buy them to look shiny (they're matt black!) and besides hardly anyone will see them! the standard pulley on the r32 (not running a VR) engine must weigh somewhere between 2-3Kg (haven't weighed it - but i was very surprised just how heavy it was) and the neuspeed one weighs a fraction of that (again haven't weighed it, but it's much much less). that weight loss, combined with the lighter weight of an ally flywheel should make a noticable difference. admittedly the chainsaw reference was a little OTT, but the diference running the whole lot together should be marked. and the whole lot is properly balanced, so it should rev nice and smoothly as well. also i wouldn't call the likes of autotech or neuspeed beginners in producing aftermarket parts. the crank pulley i have looks to be sufficiently beefy to not splinter into 99999999 pieces... check it out - viewtopic.php?f=11&t=62901&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=60 just my 2p thanks for the response though - any other comments welcome :) edit - also if i remember correctly (not 100% certain but still - ) the standard r32 pulley doesn't have the dampener part in it like other pullies; i think it's just 100% metal i will need to confirm that the next time i go out to the house though....

it was my understanding that the pressure plate of the clutch was the thing that put the bottom end most out of balance... maybe if you sorted the whole bottom end out at the same time - (lightened)/balanced flywheel, decent balanced aftermarket clutch (eg helix) and then put the pulley on, hopefully that would be ok longevity-wise.... ideally you would obviously have the crank/rods/pistons all balanced up at the same time; but failing that, as far as i know, it's the ancilliaries mentioned above that are the most detrimental to the balance of the bottom end... (disclaimer!) please note, that none of that is in any way definitive, but that's just as i understand it; if anyone wishes to contradict/disagree with any of that, i'm all ears... edit - i'm running neuspeed alloy pullies on mine with a helix clutch and autotech ally flywheel. if anyone does think i will have any issues with this, i would be very interested to hear. as i said, i was under the impression that everything would be fine, maybe even last a little longer; whatever - i'm hoping it will rev up like a chainsaw :D

bonrath do indeed still make uprated top mounts (recently bought some myself from regal autosport for about £75 delivered) they don't make the uprated bearings though apparently - i did make a point of asking regal and was told that they don't... would standard VAG bearings last any longer with nicer top mounts? - the bonrath ones are not loads harder than the VAG jobbies, but they do seem much more solid overall (if that makes sense...) :)

another thing - when you brake really hard, does one of the wheels lock up and not the rest - when one of my sensors failed, my rear left would always lock up first causing the car to skid rather nicely to one side every time under very heavy braking admittedly not a particularly sensible/definitive/safe way to find out - but it may give you some indication...

Get some SPAL slimline fans mate 8) you could go for some spal jobbies - people on here seem to rate them.... personally i've gone for a single 12" davies craig item from g-werks. i've got a friend who's used both spal and kenlowe in the past (kenlowe are supposed to one of the best) who says he would go for kenlowe out of the two as they are better made. he actually changed his mind when he saw mine - said it was better than both. it's powerful smooth and cheaper than the kenlowe - very happy with it. soooooooooooooooooo much lighter than the original fans too :) (also it's been confirmed in the past by people on here that a single fan will do the job just fine. i've also got a dubpower lower temp thermostat to help keep temps down too :))

cheers for the encouraging words gents - i really can't say just how excited i am about hopefully geting it back this weekend. it's been quite sometime now and i'm pretty fed up of pottering round in a 205 diesel! thanks very much for the kind offer karl - very good of you :D i've managed to sort a MAF for the time being - what i do need is the pedal from a mk5. i'm getting pretty annoyed with the bloke who's supposed to be sending me the bits now - nice enough guy, but so unreliable - very frustrating! :bad-words:

haha - maybe! :lol:

howdy all, just a quick update - swung by the vag-doctor on the way back to work today to drop off a couple of bits - he started it on thurs and it should hopefully be ready for his coming weekend :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D he said it dropped a small amount of coolant which i'm a little concerned about (i'm normally pretty thorough and everything is new!) - might have just been a spill from somewhere after filling it, but he's going to run it up in my absence, so hopefully all should become clear... (i'll just pretend that it's starting for the first time when i go down there!) he also offered to take a few pictures for me as he goes along which i thought was a really nice offer as it will finish off the last chapter of the conversion for me :) i'm still waiting for my original MAF and the pedal (from the donor car) to arrive through the post - i have been chasing the guy who sold me then engine and associated bits for months now - getting pretty hacked off with it now in all honesty! - if i have to get the vag doctor to buy a pedal for me so he can finish it, then i'll be sending the other guy the bill! he agreed with me about just how horrific the alarm wiring was - not good. he's a really nice bloke though and he seems unbelievably switched on! he had the answer to all my questions instantly - will give an overall vedict when i get the car back, but going on what i've see so far - he's absolutely spot on! i got a couple of pics of it today - i'm still cringing over the paintwork, but i'll get it mopped when i get it back - also got the shockers height, compression and rebound to setup when i get it back - just the last few pieces of the puzzle i guess... below are the two pics that i took today...

useful post - thanks :) will hopefully have a crack at mine come the weekend (sympathise with your bad luck buying switches off ebay as well!)

hey there buddy - unfortuntely i can't see your pics as i'm at work :( (will make a point to have a look when i get home) if you like you can have a squizz at my r32 conversion; which all being well, should be done in the next 2-3 weeks... i'm also in hereford most weekends, so you could look me up there if you like - 07888701877 i have kept the oem ecu as i think it's definitely the way forward. i don't want to go for stupid power as (IMO) it's pretty pointless just through the front wheels and also i should be getting half decent fuel economy from the factory setup and i don't want to spoil that. IMO, unless you are converting to 4wd, the factory ecu is the way forward as silly power is just wasted through the front wheels...

hey there buddy, just to echo the replies above - that's properly crap for you :( it will all come good before long though - at least it runs properly now. remember the proverb from mr guinness - good things come to those who wait! hope you're loving the new wheels when they arrive :D

sounds like a good excuse to buy a quaife to me ;)

:salute: will do. where about are you located hereford or bulford? bulford is only salisbury way, if you werent too busy one day i'd love to see this r32, if your down salisbury way mind[/quote:3rcha3ff] i am indeed down salisbury way! - bulford is where i work and hereford is my home, which is normally where i try and spend the weekends (depending on what i've got on/if i'm seeing the girlfriend etc etc). give me a buzz buddy - 07888701877 - you are more than welcome to have a look once it's all sorted... just don't expect me to be in a hurry to get out of the driver's seat at that stage :lol:

i would be loving one of these as well if they do indeed materialise! hope all is well by the way kip - am back at work now, so i'll try and get in touch in the next few days :)

hey there buddy - yes, most definitely counting down the days! i'm hoping to get the car back in about 2-3 weeks all being well :D make sure you keep us updated as to progress on yours!

there's a guide on the wiki for how to do the whole matrix - http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/H ... eplacement it's a bit of an arsehole of a job though, so set aside a day to do it just to be sure (depending on your spannering skills obviously) as far as i can remember from doing mine, to take the centre console out there are a couple of screws in the lower well, a couple behing the fag lighter/ash tray. 4 behind the front trim of the heater controls. one that's a sod to get to in the roof of the vents in the top and a couple (for some bizzare reason) behind the heated screen/foglight switches, which are easier to get to if you remove the instrcuments surround too... the little bits of plastic venting etc are all sods to remove as they will invariably get wedged against everything in sight when you try to remove them, so have patience here! hope all goes well - it's reasonably obvious what has to be done once you get started and can see everything hope that helps :)

car is looking good as is the shed! looking forward to the oncoming project buddy - keep you busy over winter :D

will hopefully get my reply up on here before long (got to wait until i get the car back!) and after i've got the car all setup and finished how i want it... currently running 17" bbs rx's with kw v3's :)

looking very good there buddy :) make sure you get some pics up of the final product too :D i'm going to be using dodo juice on mine - gotta get it mopped before then though as it's looking pretty sorry for itself after being sat around so long while i did my conversion