pete_griff

that's almost definitely the leads! you could try insulation tape round the metal bases, but tbh, it's a bit of a $hit fix! i tried several layers of insulation tape on my old plug leads when they were buggered - it helped a bit, but it didn't cure it. your best bet is to get hold of some new leads. you can get them relatively cheaply. speak to DG Autotech about supplying you with some dubpower make some good quality leads that are also surprisingly cheap - ask for those :D

possibly tired engine mounts...

if you still have trouble in future then get yourself a set of "drive-thru" ratchets. (i can't remember the proper official name), if you check out the pics at the bottom of the page here you'll see what i mean - very useful. if not, do you know anyone with a small compressor you could borrow? also an easy way of doing it...

it's certainly worth getting your tracking checked just as a matter of course (and for peace of mind), however... i've had loads of toyo's in the past - the t1-r's are a nice grippy tyre, but they really don't last. the car i had them on for the longest was a 306 s16. 306's handle very well with very good turn-in. one of my favourite tricks was to pile into roundabouts and lift off as 306's have brilliant lift-off oversteer. essentially, if you push it through the bends, lots of tyres will end up looking like that. my m5 is a classic example - i drive my cars pretty hard most of the time, and the tyres on my car are buggered now on the edges due to hard cornering and the fact it's a big, heavy car, so it leans on the tyres a lot. what are the centres on the tread like? from your pics it looks like you're getting pretty near the wear indicators anyway. remember the police rule is that the tyre must have 1.6mm of tread across 3/4 of the face and 100% of the circumference. so basically, if only the outide edge is a bit worn and the middle and inside edge is still legal, then the tyre is still legal and you'll be able to argue it should you be stopped by plod. if you're looking for something equally performance orientated in the smaller sizes (yours look like 15"s), try either goodyear eagle f1 gsd3's or continental sport contact 3's - they should grip just as well if not better than the toyos and may last a bit longer too :D

goes without saying that you should pick up some ARP bolts here too - they are fairly cheap as well. afaik, they are also a requirement if fitting an aftermarket diff as the original rivets holding the crownwheel obviously have to be drilled off

very nice - i've always been a massive fan of ultralegras and they suit your car nicely 8)

nice calipers Drew - what are they from? clearly Steve got in there before me with the master cylinder comment! surprised you haven't had the new brakes refurbed before they go on knowing you and your car... (or is that what you're now waiting for...)

after you've popped the cap off the pumps are mounted onto the base of the tank with like a bayonet fitting (like you get on lightbulbs...) they are pretty straightforward to change; just reach in and twist it and it should come out! what year is you car? some of the earlier pumps were slightly different and had different sender units for the fuel gauge. basically if you have a pierburg pump (the earlier type), you have to run a pierburg sender and it's the same with the (later) vda pumps and senders. they are interchangable if you have the early one, as (as far as i know) only the later style is now available. if you're swapping like for like then happy days - it will be very straightforward. if not... you simply cut the hose clips off the early pump and get some decent jubilee clips (fuel line specific items are favourite here) and stick the hoses onto the new pump. as for the sender, cut the existing wires as long as you can. then you can either solder them onto the joints, or use crimp-ons... solder is usually favourite, but.... they looked like a bit of a pain in the arse to solder and personally i didn't want to risk any damage to the pump by burning it with fat fingers! if you get hold of some decent crimps (as long as they go on tight), i don't see why they should be much worse than soldering. they shouldn't rust much as obviously all that goes in the tank is petrol... anyway - you can look here for some pics that should help you out. any more help needed, just ask! :) oh last thing - if you do end up buying a pump from ebay, try and get a genuine VDA pump as they "should" essentially be what you'll buy from the dealer anyway...

Dave Walker is an automotive phenomenon - he is actually genuinely very interested, knowledgable and enthusiastic in his own product!!! even his lawnmower is now fuel injected with a turbo!!! :nuts: the guy is a true petrolhead with a vast knowledge and genuine desire to make the best out of other people's cars. in case you can't tell, i'm quite a big emerald fan! granted if money was no object i would get a motec or a link ecu, but for everything else - there's emerald! :D also - i'll massively second the VRT get together; would be very interested to see the various numbers/setups etc etc i could bring the m5 along too - will be doing an overhaul the end of this month, so i'll be keen to see how many horses have been "recaptured" (think i could possibly do with some new cats as my car looks like it's been over-fuelling for a while... :? )

nice work there Kev - liking the way you've kept everything as oem, subtle and out of sight as possible. seeing as you're running the pump in the swirl tank, the cooling effect from the fuel should make the pump last a bit longer as well shouldn't it?!? as well as the obvious bonus of making it a bit quieter. oh and agree with the others about your wheels - i've always been a fan of the pro-races, typically they're nice and light for you too! :lol: that's a very nice setup you've got there too Ben - nice to see those V3's are getting put to good use! have you got a build thread anywhere - was loving seeing all those piccies on your phone ages ago, now i've seen this i want more! didn't realise you were running figures above 500hp until recently - mental! :nuts: :luvlove:

hey pal, your car is silly-clean; lovely to see it still getting that kind of attention from you. :clap: top marks with the dedication - great to see another corrado getting that sort of lavishment loving your various other piccies as well - although i want a new shape m5 now! nice update pal :D

hey again pal, hope all is well. it was mentioned earlier in the thread but didn't get a reply... HAVE YOU EVER DRIVEN A VR??? if not i would really do that before you go splashig the cash on yours... - it's gotta beworth doing that before you commit a fair chunk of cash also, if i were in your shoes i would bin the old engine completely. if you're seriously after better numbers, then get hold of a 20v turbo engine and drop that in. not only is it an easy conversion, but you would still retain those nimbler handing characterisics over the vr (due to retining a lighter 4-pot up front), which i'm guessing you're after. just my 2p here pal, but i've been modifying pretty much all my cars for a long as i have been driving. having done an r32 conversion, the 20vt is the conversion i would do if i come back to rado ownership...

hahaha - gotta love the banter! :clap: second what joeyboswell said - sound stupid, but check your mats out as it's quite common i think...

i also seem to remember a thread on here where the fuel pump was to blame (and that was on a vr) - it wasn't holding any sort of pressure in the lines due to the pump being fubar'd - hence the initial problems when starting... the pump relay might be a good place to start... if you do end up finding it's the fuel pump at fault then it's probably worth changing the fuel pressure reg at the same time if you end up replacing the pump and the reg is still the original.

what he said! ^^^ one thing i will say though i to take your time when choosing exactly where to mount it. if i hadn't broken my car, the first thing on my list was to move the pedal to another, more comfortable position. it sounds really obvious, but something like that will make a massive difference to how it feels to drive - make sure you get it right!

it's possibly to clear the bolt on the bottom of the shocker that sits next to the exhaust, but not certain of that...

best of luck getting it sorted pal. just spoke to Dave a few minutes ago and he's there underneath it with your new PAS pump itching to go! :D

on a vr6 the fuel pump is in the tank - the only thing visible where you describe on the outside of the car is the fuel filter. early valvers (not sure about later ones) and some early g60's etc have the pump on the underside you can still hear the pump from outside the car, but it's less noticable, but that will still be a good place to start if it's not coming from the engine bay...

sorry was the slave leaking befoer you even disconnected anything. i.e. did you undo the flexi fluid line feedling the slave in order to remove it from the gearbox, or did you just undo the two 13mm bolts that hold it in? if you didn't touch the fluid line and you're seeing fluid, then there's definitely something wrong, but if you did undo it, then it's normal to see fluid out of the hole the line feeds into (obviously!). regardless of that, if the slave on your car is the original and you've got it out, it'll be worth thinking about replacing it anyway. they are about 30-45 sheets from GSF iirc, not sure what the dealers would charge you, but depending on how much extra it is obviously, it can often be worth plumping for that little bit extra as undoubtedly dealer stuff will last longer.

it's quite common for garages to use a grinder to get the centre part of the old bearing off the hub as it neraly always stays on there. that is just butchery though, you'll barely leave a mark on it if you're careful, that's bloody attrocious! glad you managed to get sorted and you're happy with the outcome. the jetex would have been my choice of exhaust too, pleased you're happy with all the work - there's nothing better than driving the 'rado dwon the road after getting a load of stuff sorted like that :D

i have seen wheels/brakes run with this sort of clearance before. it's not advisable, i'm not certain of the exact figure, but a guideline of 2-3mm is generally talked about afaik... also, wheels spacers are horrible, nasty, evil things. if you can get away without running them then you really should do (unless they're just spacing an aftermarket wheel to the same ET as a standard item, but even then it's not that nice). they cause odd tracking/steering and premature bearing failure due to the increased loads. HORRIBLE THINGS!

looking really good - can't wait to see the outcome! :D you're in safe hands with DG btw, you don't want to sell your numberplate by any chance do you?!?

You do know that the little "rod" that sticks out of the slave and pushes against the release arm isn't actually attached to anything don't you... The rod is simply held in place by the pressure from the release arm when it's in-situ, and just held in by the rubber seal once you remove the slave (hence why it will waggle around once the slave is removed from the gearbox...) the actual piston is inside the slave and out of sight unless you take it apart. not teaching you to suck eggs or anything - just making sure you're aware before you go splashing the cash...

LOVE the engine bay - twincharged, mmmmmmmm HATE the styling, but each to their own. WELCOME TO THE FORUM :D :wave:

When i sold the engine, everything went, gearbox, ECU, loom etc. In answer to your question Pete, i'm not sure whether the original mounts will be compatible with the new gearbox, my guess is probably not, but I'm some what inexperienced when coming to something this major, so we'll see how it goes? that's cool, it's much better to retain as much of the new loom as possible anyway, so you've forced your own hand on that one! as for the box, i would have thought (can't confirm though) that the original corrado box would have gone straight onto your lump, meaning you could retain the oem driveshafts/mounts etc etc. as it is now, i don't think the 6-speed box will drop straight onto the mounts; you'll probably have to chop them about to make it fit. also you'll possibly need to get some custom driveshafts made up due to different lengths/fittings (but you won't know without trying). best of luck with it all anyway - looking forward to seeing how it all comes together :D