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I bled all four wheels, the master cylinder and the two nipples on top of the ABS unit before taking it to the garage, they replaced the MC and bled it "about 20 times" (?) and say it's still not right... The only thing I can think of that hasn't been done is to do the VAG-COM ABS bleeding procedure, I guess that's a good thing to try also...?

OK, I recently replaced the whole back brake assembly, including new calipers, pads, discs, & hoses. Bled the brakes using eezibleed, but couldn't get the pedal to firm up properly. The brakes worked, but the pedal travel was way too much. So, I took it to the local garage who reckoned that the problem was the master cylinder, which was replaced today, but the brake pedal is still too spongy to pass the MOT... I wonder if anyone has any idea what could be the problem? The garage say they've bled the system many times with no improvement. I got the new rear calipers off eBay, not sure what make -- can dodgy calipers cause brake spongyness? There's no leaks anywhere... Also the pedal was nice and firm before I replaced the back brakes. Could a faulty rear bias valve cause this? Have I damaged the ABS unit?

You could wrap them in self-amalgamating tape - it looks smart & neat and is heatproof to a degree. The main benefit is it doesn't deteriorate into a horrible sticky mess like insulation tape does.

It might just need bleeding, or perhaps a bleed nipple has come loose on either the master or slave cylinder and you're leaking fluid... you could try checking for leaks a a first step.

Fair enough, just thought I'd ask as I've spent god knows how much on the car recently... :pale: Cheers :)

Can anybody tell me if putting CV joint grease in wheel bearings would be dangerous/damaging/wrong or just plain stupid? I have a massive tin of the stuff and I'd prefer not to have to get yet another tin of stuff if I can help it... T

Think I'm gonna attempt this conversion this week, are there any special tools that'll make it easier, like a bearing puller, or caliper wind back tool? I've got all the usual tools but never done any work on the brakes. T

Just had mine done today, it failed on the rear brakes, looks like I'm gonna have to strip down both sides and rebuild. I suppose I was a bit optimistic expecting it to pass, a) it's a corrado and b) it's been sitting in the garage for the past year whilst I rebuilt the engine... on a positive note the mechanic said the emissions were 'spot on' :) T

There should be a small pipe coming off the large rubber intake hose, into the ISV, then from the ISV into a curved black plastic muffler thing, then from that into the inlet manifold just after the throttle body. I had the rough idling problem, then I cleaned the ISV with brake cleaner which seems to have steadied the idle, but now I'm getting the frequent stalling at junctions problem. I suspect the brake cleaner may have been too efficient and removed all the lubricant, making it stick occasionally, so I'm gonna try some vaseline in the valve to see if that cures it (from a post in another thread on here). T

Another good product for the busy driver... or maybe not! http://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Office-WM-01-Laptop-Steering/dp/B000IZGIA8/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header

So the black coolant sensor on the thermostat housing doesn't connect to the main engine loom, but to the loom with the fan cables?

Hi all, I wonder if anyone could confirm the colours of the wires that connect to the intake temperature sensor on a '93 VR6? I just completed a rebuild and I think I may have plugged it into the wrong place, there's two connectors that fit on the sensor, one is on the main engine loom, and the other comes out of the loom that the large fan connector wires are in. Also, the small pipe that goes from the head into the rubber intake pipe just before the throttle body (PCV pipe?) has a little widget on it with what looks like a connector for a cable, but without any contacts, does anyone have any idea what this is? The Bentley says its a heater of some kind, but without contacts how can it do any heating? :scratch: Just got a bit confused as during the rebuild I completely re-taped the engine loom and of course forgot to note down exactly where each connector went, d'oh! Cheers :)

I think that's the bracket that holds the gearshift cables on to the gearbox casing... They usually have rubber bushes, so I guess the aluminium ones give a better feel to the mechanism.

If I recall correctly, the temperature warning light flashing means that the coolant level is low in the header tank.

Bump again... need to get a new one for my VR6 and was thinking of one of these...

End float is less than 0.10mm so well within the wear limit of 0.25mm, according to Bentley. I guess it's probably OK, just wanted to be absolutely sure :)

OK so the back & forth movement isn't a problem, that's encouraging. I haven't measured the end float yet, will go and do so. Would excessive end float cause the thrust washer not to seat right down in the bearing cap slot? T

Took this photo... there's two things that concern me, one is that the washer 'stub' (long red arrow) on the washer moves from side to side in the slot when the crank rotates back and forth, and there's quite a gap (marked) between the washer and the bearing cap... am I being overly concerned about this, or have I got the wrong part, or assembled it wrong? 22082009182_edit.JPG[/attachment:2a2n2i5c] Any help appreciated, thanks :) Tom

Does anyone know if the thrust washers either side of bearing cap no. 5 should be slightly loose? I've just installed new ones from VW (the ones with only half of the circle) and when the crank is rotated back and forth, I can see the washers move very slightly. The vertical 'stub' part of the washer doesn't seem to be keyed properly into the groove on the side of the bearing cap so the washer rotates a fraction with the crank. I've torqued the caps down, luckily got ARP studs so can take them off without worries. It's a bit difficult to describe in words, I'll try to get some pictures up this evening if possible. T

OK after quite a long wait for money, parts etc. I have finally started the rebuild of my VR6. I decided to get the original block bored out to 82.5mm and fit Wiseco forged pistons, also got my hands on ARP head, rod & main fasteners so I won't have any worries if (when!) I decide to stick a turbo on at a later date. Thanks to Adrian at Impulse in Rochdale -- he's been very helpful, great service getting the block rebored and lots of useful tips & advice for the novice engine builder like me! :salute: Here's some pictures of what I got up to this weekend: ETKA Corrado.pdf21082009160.jpg[/attachment:199s4r8t] stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf22082009163.jpg[/attachment:199s4r8t] Corrado92.pdf22082009165.jpg[/attachment:199s4r8t] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf22082009169.jpg[/attachment:199s4r8t] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf22082009171.jpg[/attachment:199s4r8t] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf22082009173.jpg[/attachment:199s4r8t] 22082009177.jpg[/attachment:199s4r8t]

Hi all I wonder if anyone has used MJM Autohaus in the states? (website http://www.mjmautohaus.com) They do a bottom end rebuild kit with ARP bolts which looks good value, even if the UK customs add their VAT so was wondering if anyone has any good (or bad!) words to say about them? cheers Tom

Hi iceviolet Did you replace the crankshaft oil seals before reassembling the bottom end? If so did you need any special tools? The Peter Russek manual I have specifies all sorts of fancy things for extracting and replacing the seals... Great build thread by the way, I've been following it with interest. I've just stripped down my VR6 block and taken it to the machine shop to be rebored, so I'll be following in your footsteps over the next few weeks/months! Cheers Tom

I think (from inspecting the VR6 block I just dismantled) that the oil goes from the pump, through the filter, through the cooler, and then on to the engine... I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong though.. cheers Tom

Looks like a good idea -- I'll give it a go :) Cheers! Tom

Does anyone know anywhere I could get one of these? Thanks Tom