mariojoshi

Didn't you know? Corrado VR6s last longer with CALGON! :lol:

Well folks.. as above really! Had a quick search and couldn't come up with anything for these figures. I reckon the offset will be a bit too low, personally, but I'm open to suggestions. I'd image it will be fine at the back due to the wider body work...... but please correct me if my assumptions are wrong! Ta! Josh.

Thanks so much guys.. I think I'm going to give stealth a call and see what they say and when it might be able to be done. I will do all of it together, chains etc if it comes in at about £700-£750. I just really wonder how long the clutch is going to last - I've got a few miles to do next week! On the plus side.. my driving style is becoming more sedate and therefore my fuel economy is going up. I guess that might change if the clutch begins to slip more and more, however. Josh EDIT - Stealth now want £750 plus VAT which works out to be £881 :( It takes about 2 days for them to do it properly.. which is a pain in you live a fair way away!

Vw Expert (near me.. waltham cross) Just tried to ask for £525 to supply and fit the clutch with the timing chains being £646 ON TOP!!!! TOTAL: £1171 The good news is that they will fit the serpentine/aux drive/ribbed belt for free. Aww.. how nice!

Had a read through the WiKi... Didn't realise that actually covered the clutch too (thought it was just chains) Fook me it's a rather large job. Thanks for all the advice so far everyone, really appreciate it. The phirm, friends of mine have used before. I've heard only good things about them. £750 all in. I was seriously impressed that the girl on the end of the phone didn't even look anything up and just knew all the answers! Now.... my local MR Clutch *shudders* want £300 to replace the clutch (LUK) itself and not touch chains/tensioners etc. Are chains/tensioners/guides alone likely to cost £400 -£450? I had a chat with Rob @ G-werks (love em to bits - always SO helpful!) he mentioned MR Clutch to me as he said, OK.. they might not be VR6 specialists.. but they do clutches all day long day in day out, so they do know what they're doing... *we hope* One think that I should maybe comment on, is the fact that this is my daily driver and not just a weekend car. Work is on and off at the moment (hence why I'm sitting here posting!) but it can get busy and involve mileage. Oh yes.. and, if I'm starting to really notice it now (I've actually been wondering if she's been slighty down on power for weeks) but only when you give it some abuse.. how long is the clutch likley to last for more sedate driving? Any ideas? Supercharged.. I hear you buddy! I'm almost tempted to phone my local back in Kent (where I was at uni) Absolutely loved that garage, they arn't a VW specialist.. but they knew what they were doing and took really good care of my cars... always happy to give advice on my Mk3 polos etc. Regards, Josh

I just said... out loud... "OHHHH MY GOD! " And not in a good way. I really like the car.. but can't justify head rebuilds to be honest! Chains and tensioners seem like a very good idea really.. £700? :( that hurts my feelings.. and it's going to hurt my wallet! Thanks for the help so far! Might give stealth a call.... ouch. Edit - 70miles from stealth.. 1.5hours. Hmm.. not exactly that close.....?! :|

Ohhhhh... Mines just over a grand :( But.. 21, Driving 2 years 2 years NCB TPFT Coilies etc delcared This was the best quote I could find.. with flux! Although I really don't like it... I can understand why a 21yr old male is going to have to pay this much for a group 18 190bhp sports coupe!

Hey guys and gals.. I've done a search, but not found anything that really covers everything I wanted to know. Right, well she's on 95k now, and I assume the clutch has never been done as I've no record of it. The car doesn't seem to be pulling as well as it did, revs rising without their being the increase in speed that you'd imagine (at the higher end of the range), and a not so nice smell if you boot it for a bit through the gears. I assume.... my clutch is on the way out. :shock: So, from what I gather.. you've got to take the front end of the car off and take the whole bloody engine out? This isn't something I can do personally, so either I'm going to have to get a friend to help (I've got someone in mind with a great deal of experience) or I'm going to have to bend over and get it done at a garage. What clutch to get? I guess a VW one is a silly price, I've read that the LUK ones are fine etc etc. Is it worth getting a "fast road" or sports clutch which might be a bit better? If I'm honest.. I'm very unlikely to have the car for another 90k ;) and I think the clutch is going to be the last of my worries as the engine continues to age. If they do provide better performance however, for say.. £40 extra, I'll consider it! What else to do to the engine? Since it has to come out... right? I assume doing the chains and tensioners is a good idea too. otherwise if they go, engine out again jobby! Again, I don't think they've been done. Only a slight rattle on them from cold, but nothing major as far as I can tell (I'm no expert, mind!) I think my auxillary drive belt might also need replacing at some point in the future as it's starting to get a bit noisy (they do have a habbit of picking up loads of rubbish though from what i can see) Anything else I might as well do/have done? A friend said that I should do as much as possible while the engine was out, which I agree with in principle, but it's cost and what's worthwhile! I'd be quite happy to throw another hundred at it if I'd see a some nice healthy performance gains! What should I be paying for this lot? I assume we're looking at about £500 for the lot, engine out, gearbox off, clutch out, clutch replace, chains, tensions, all back together.... ..............and back in. Who's had this done, how much was it.. and where? Any reccommendations? I'm NOT going to VW I might go to a specialist if it's worthwhile and not just extortion because of the name. I've heard bits and bobs about people like Stealth and JMR etc. I don't really want to travel silly miles for no reason (I'm based on the top NW end of greater london) ANY help is appreciated.. this place seems really good when it comes to the tech sections! :) Regards and thanks, Josh.

Alpine and Pie 'n' Ear are usually safe bets if you don't go for the ultra budget stuff, from my experience. Very happy with my Pioneer DEH6700MP (Might not be the best HU on the market, but does me fine!)

Glad you got it sorted fella. I'd have liked to have been more help to be honest!

Oldschool it with a coping saw Jim!

I think it's pretty safe to assume that no-one else on this forum has: - had to go slowly down a road because of an Amish horse/cart - annoyed an Amish person by driving past them - had an argument with an Amish person - been forced to call a police officer because of an Amish person - found that the police officer was polite and reasonable about it all Quite a lot of unusual things in one day! Did you take lunch at Milliways afterwards? Absoulte GOLD right there. Had me in stitches! Also.. what a story!

I see Cnut's point, but don't agree entirely. People do have very different opinions in terms of what will be good enough for them. It's quite right that an amp is clearly the best way to go about it.... but that's not the route everyone wants to take! Is your headunit a 4x50 MOSFET? Excuse my ignorance if this is just more marketing sh1t, but I've always been under the impression that this was a better quality amplifier used in headunits.. and therefore you should get *less* distortion and a bit more drive.

Got a thumbs up from a guy in a TVR Tuscan! I think he was quite surprised how well I did when I saw him boot it off the roundabout onto a long stretch of dual! :) The indicators in the rear windscreen on those things is such a randomly cool touch!

Hi Dave, I'm quite willing to admit that I'm a f*ckwit. I do tend to run into problems that you all mechanically minded bods cope with in 2 seconds. Many thanks for you offer to help though! I managed it in the end with a different screw.. but I did have to get the drill out and remove a little bit of material in the pivot! Maybe I was just unlucky. I would personally reccommend a crosshead screw to be included for future kits... me and a friend tend to call the other kind "slot-sh1t" rather than slot head....! Otherwise, the machining of the replacement part seems utterly bombproof and well thought out. The service you provided was also super efficient and now I can get back into my car again =D Josh

I've been trying to get this screw to bite the pivot pin for hours. All I've managed so far is to stab myself in several places :( Am I seriously the only one that has had a problem? The screw seems to big or the pivot internal too small! I'm not trying to say the kit doesn't work.. as I'm sure it does.. I just havn't been able to get that far yet. Any advice appreciated. I've tried other screws but the threads just get squished. I assume the casting of the pivot pin is relatively strong and not as soft as I would have thought? Hence the trouble getting this screw to bite?! Josh

This is a common 'rado problem it would appear. Clearly the same thing had happened to mine in the past. Apparently it could be due to the fact that the (same?) switch as used in the golf which is mounted vertially (and has room for heat to escape) was mounted horizontally in the corrado.. where the heat can't go anywhere. As far as I could tell.. the loom from the fuseboard to the headlamp switch is a single unit, and that's all you need to replace. Just make sure it didn't burn any other wires out!

:) Just FYI..... I didn't remove the HT leads, personally and it wasn't much of a problem.

One of the guys on here sent me a PDF which tells you exactly how to take off the ISV and clean it! This link should be valid for about a week I think. just download (no viruses or anything to worry about, just free server space for file hosting) http://www.yousendit.com/transfer.php?action=download&ufid=90821C0B70252FA9 Hope this helps! Josh.

Sent you a PM, sir. In urgent need of a kit! Josh

I meant that I'd seen worse thatn 27AVG on the MFA :lol: I've never got under 21... full stop!

I've seen worse MPG than that and I don't ever redline the car! As for german plates... I just prefer the font and the embossed look personally. Metal plates look so much nicer :) Might get some and whack some fookin great bits of vercro on the back. Keep the proper UK ones in the boot also with said velcro on em. If anyone has a moan, easy to put back very quickly and SHOULD hopefully avoid a fine. I've done the whole D band and sticker thing.. can't be bothered anymore. Plate (and therefore car) look cleaner with just the letters/numbers IMO! Josh.

I'm a Garmin man, myself! They tend to have better reception, better after sales service and a better windscreen mount!

Tidy indeed. Virtually all of em have had paint at some point. Difficult not to for cars of this age! What are the plans?

Hey all, many thanks for the comments. I do indeed need to get rid of my orange repeaters. I was thinking of getting some smoked ones to blend in a bit more, and then uprating to LED amber bulbs to be on the safe side. As for the red rear lights, I'm conscious of the fact that they could be a problem, so tend to leave more of a gap when changing lanes etc. I think the only time I've ever had thought it could still be a worry was in bright low-sun conditions... but to be fair, it's gets harder to see anyone's lights! I read through many of the posts about this issues and finally settled on going for the very high power multi LED amber upgrade bulbs. This works a treat! I soldered on the resistors so the bulbs don't flash too fast, and hey presto! I posted my results in the recent threads I think, so have a look! 3corsameal - your VR looks stunning! TheWizardofOdds.. agreed.. I'll snap a side on somtime ;) Think i still need to level her out on the coilies to be honest. Josh