tandino

You can chew yourself off Pal. Get me the coding on the failure sheet that youve plucked from the net.

If youve got the 50mm one on at present all the fixings are the same for both splitters. 5x 10mm headed bolts aloong the centre section which thread into the straight alloy plate. Then 4 or 6 self tapping screws and retainer clips on the edges/corners.

Good bit of advice, dont bother to undo the union and then have to re bleed your clutch slave, undo the two bolts and remove the slave complete, you can hang it out of the way and then bolt it when you refit your engine.

There is no criteria within the computerised MOT test to fail any car for no cat fitted and a tester cannot fail a car for no cat fitted. Cars that are eligable for the 'CAT' can only fail if the test if they fail to meet the emissions requirements, if they pass the emissions requirements without a cat then they pass the 'CAT' test. I suggest you go and look on the MOT testers forum.

Sorry mate but thats tosh. There is nothing that states a cat must be fitted merely the car must pass the CAT emissions test.

Very nice Mirrors not working is usually the switch on the door getting cruded up, All the other bits are all minor. They run fine on 95ron but you might get a few more ponies out of 98/99ron but the way fuel prices are atm its a luxury!! Have fun and if you need any advice im only in Westfield Nr Battle

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Das-grosse-corrad ... 3a599693a5 Now come on.... Seriously?? :? :? Shit me, if a books worth that are our cars suddenly going to fly up in value to match that?? :lol: :lol:

Shame you didnt sort this out two or so week ago, I was up the M1 Jct 15 ish, could have helped you out.. Sods law..

Ive had 3 Miltek Systems, two on Corrado's ive bought with them fitted, all perfect, great sound and quality. I also bought a Miltek for my Golf Mk3 Vr6 a few years ago and it too was spot on. I'd buy Miltek all day long over Magnex or Supersport.

thats a bit of a non starter, late bora 12v engine that is not a direct fit, almost like a US spec lump. Buy a complete car, you know it makes sense, that way you sell off all the bits you dont use and it costs you nothing...

Will do, Once I've fitted my 312's and oil cooler and a few other bits and bobs I'll be in touch..

The difference between a AAA and a ABV is negligable anyhow,most of the difference imho was the combo of the intake manifold and throttle body, supposedly the cams are slightly different but ive had both sets together and i couldnt see fook all difference!, The reality is you wouldnt notice having a AAA in there, the fact you can buy a complete Golf VR6 for fook all, nick the engine and sell the rest would be the easy and cheap way out...

Seem to be getting somewhere now! What do i need then (or not) to fit this airbox? Cheers bud AJ You need the earlier rubber concertinered hose from MAF to throttle body rather than the later 6 pin OBD1 plastic hose you have now...

I would have paid 3k or thereabouts for yours all day long when i was looking for a C, ive bought one now but im sure there are others out there looking for cars like yours. Get some good photo's and list all the work youve had done and get an ad up on Pistonheads, if someone wants a good Corrado im sure they will bite, there are buyers about who will pay 3k for one, i was one up until a couple of months ago...

Im going back out to the Ring in August for the 6th time, from Fri 13th :shock: to Tues 17th if anyone is interested. We've got 15 of us staying in the burgstube hotel if anyone else is interested in joining us, the more the merrier, a few of us are fairly experienced so if its your first time we can show you around with a lap or two... I also want to do a shakedown run in the Corrado before i go so i will be looking to do a half day at Brands or somewhere close by..

My view is that you buy a complete car that has had a engine rebuild or that you know has had a load of work done or very low mileage that you can drive and test first, fit the engine and break the rest, cheapest way to do it. Id even be tempted to use a 2.8 rather than the ABV if i was going for silly power, they seem to be more tolerant of abuse and dont seem to suffer the bore problems as bad as the 2.9...

Sounds like you have a bad earth somewhere, its too much of a coincidence for all those things to be happening at once, check all the earths especially the sender earths which attach to the head.

That looks like an early MAF with the later plastic versus rubber MAF air pipe

Sounds like you need to reset the temp gauge as i would hazard a guess that the gauge has maxed out on the previous car. You need to remove the dials from the car, then remove the dials from the housing (easy) then you need to physically lift the temp needle up until you feel it click, once this has been done reassemble the dials and fit them back into the car. Job done

No problem, looks like your sorted 8)

You need to see if you have a spark before you go any further.. Edit: you say youve had a couple of plugs out, does that mean youve checked for spark or just visually checked the plugs? Also youve mentioned you have a dribble of fuel, which line did you undo the supply line to the injector rail or the return line? You should have a considerable amount of fuel coming out of the supply line when the fuel pump relay is priming. Also how much fuel do you have in the tank?

Where are you in East Sussex? Im in Westfield and may be available on Monday AM, depends what the weather is like, im supposed to be taking my lad to Santa Pod but if its pee'ing down then thats going to be a non starter.. Cheers Pete.

So you've established you have fuel, do you have a spark?

Check all your earths and in particular the main earth that goes from the batt negative to the engine/gearbox bolt that is located underneath the coolant thermo housing. I had exactly the same problem a couple of weeks back and even after copper greasing the mentioned bolts above before installing my new engine it wouldnt crank merely click the starter, i had to physically cleaned the contact points before it would crank.

You use the mechanism from the Mk3, its essentially the same as the Corrado bar the bit that tilts the the Corrado sunroof interior trim., on the Mk3 the panel slides back a few inches when you put the roof on tilt, on the Corrado it opens the flap in the trim. You have to remove the plastic U surround that makes the mechanism not visible from inside rthe car on the Mk3 mech but you cant really see it anyhow, also with the roof on tilt you can see the inside of the Corrado body colour panel as the interior panel slides back a few inches, either matt black or stick some cloth over the inside edge. Shame the roof mechs on VW's are made from shite cast ally that breaks so easilly...