tandino

Oil wont drop 14'C in 30 seconds, i would say that you have either sender or a earth problem, clean the earth to the block would be a good start.

I would say the water leak is from the elbow, from memory there is a rubber O-ring to seal against the radiator, worth having a look when the cooling system has de-pressurised. A bit of sweat from an exhaust joint is perfectly acceptable and i wouldnt worry unless its noticeably blowing.

Nice one Mark Pop down for a brew 8) And Harry, we should hook up to seeing as your only down the road.. Cheers Pete.

MOT means twat all when it comes to driveshafts and possible metal fatigue neither does service history or paperwork. Bottom line is you dont know how this happened or when it might have happened otherwise you would have had it replaced before it did happen,. Driveshafts dont let go when you put your foot down or drive the car hard, they let go because there is a problem with the shaft or CV joint not because of how its being driven. Im sorry mate, im not saying its not a pisser but fact is in my mind this is not the garages fault, if he had punctured a tyre because he drove through a pothole or clipped a kerb then fair enough but a driveshaft??..

cause i wanted him to see what i see. but in hein sight (?) yes i should of gone out with him. but i dont expect them to drive/break it in the that they did cause i wouldnt do to some ones car! How do you know that the car didnt just break through no fault of their own?, Thats what you have to prove, and as you say if it didnt break there it would more than likely have broken down the road with you behind the wheel. If it was a new car you might have a leg to stand on, as a 15+ year old modified car i dont think you have.

Id have a guess and say thermostat housing area from your description..

To be fair i can see there side of the story, you have a car that lowered significantly if your signature pic is anything to go by?, This puts significantly more loadings on the drive shafts and i would say its just bad luck its gone whilst theyve been testing it... Also why did you not go out in the jump seat with him whilst he was testing it?

Be up and running tomorrow afternoon, Got a new roof mech to go in and i can finally start to sort the interior out, been driving round with no headlining for the last 2 1/2 months!

Is the radiator fan switch/sender the blue, brown or yellow one? I thought I'd replaced them all, but mine does tend to rise to 105 in heavy, staionary traffic. The first stage fan trigger is predominently the rad fan switch in the rad itself. The senders are yellow - 1st and 2nd stage trigger in conjunction with the rad fan switch, blue is the ecu temp sensor black is the 110'c fan switch - ie if all others have failed this is the last get out of jail free trigger. As long as yours drops back to 90'ish when on the move and only gets to 105 in heavy traffic then i wouldnt worry too much, what i would worry about is it sitting at 110 all the time like Mark has said this potential car was, if it was in traffic then ok its a bit less of a problem as its more than likely fan trigger related, if its whilst its being driven then something is not right....

Been a ball ache but hopefully it will pay off in the end!, Still loads more to do however, does it ever end....

Got all 4 PDF's buddy, Unfortunately it tells you didly squat which way round the receiver dryer connectors go, Vince has alrewady given me the heads up, anyhow i had connected mine the right way round, 50:50 and i guessed right. Shame it leaked out, oh well only another day 8)

And i see your from T/wells, if you want me to come and have a look with you then im more than happy if you pick me up, im in Westfield Nr Battle.. Cheers Pete

Thats too hot imho, They should sit between 90-100'c on the move. Do you have a copy of vagcom on a laptop you can take with you to check it out?,the dash gauge is not the most accurate of things, for example last car i was working on that i checked was under reading by 6-7'c, mine over reads slightly... 110'c is defo too hot though. I would suggest that the radiator fan switch/sender is knackered as that controls the first stage fans which kick in around 95-98'c, was the fan running when you were driving?

Cheers for that Vince, Got it gassed up by my mate for 20 quid, All going swimingly, A/C compressor kicked in on the way home and promptly emptied its contents inside the car whilst i was doing 60mph :lol: , guess who fogot to nip the union up into the evaporator whilst rushing this afternoon!, oh well it held vacuum and pressure and even some R134a was recovered so to me that means it was working fairly recently before it was removed from the donor car I will have fully working a/c tomorrow :clap:

Right ok here we go. There are two ways of going about it. First one is to use your existing Corrado seats, this will involve cannibalising them so if youve got a mint seat of Corrado leather find either a pair of front lower seat subframes or a pair of doggy front seats - your going to be cutting the f**k out of the them so you dont want to use anything decent. Essentially you want to use the rear side runners and the front slider and the bit of frame that joins them, the lower seat base that is welded to the top is scrap, you will have to cut it off with a grinder Esssentially this is what you want to end up with after youve had a mounting frame welded to the runners:- Leads to this:- Im going to get some more metal welded to the rear of mine as the seats need to move back about 2-3 inches, was difficult to explain to the fabricator on the phone as to where i wanted the frame mounted :D , bear this in mind when you get yours done, you want the frame to extend back over the rear rails a bit more. The other alternative is to buy something like this:- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT Now i almost bought these, the thing that held me back was they didnt look particularly strong and also you would need to sort some sort of anchor for the seat belt . choice is yours, my subframes cost me 50 quid to fabricate, i reckon another 20 quid to get the runners lengthened but obviously that was just trial and error. Hope that helps. Cheers Pete.

Im off to pick my boy up from school but i will go into detail later!. Just fitted black Honda Integra DC2 Recaro Speed's to my Corrado...

Hi that would be great, I have not changed the dryer, retrofitted the same set up to my last Corrado Vr6 and never had to change the dryer either, worked faultlessly

Cheers buddy!

Very nice craig, Looks good on the MM and the modernlines, think your going to struggle with the ML's though!. Whats the earth wire running across the top ofthe engine bay?

Where abouts in Kent are you?,If you want me to take a look im only down near Battle East Sussex.

Cheers james, Appreciated. Pete

Hi Guys. Just finished my Diavia Air Con retrofit but i need some help. The receiver dryer which is located in front of the condensor has two connectors that plug into the loom, there is no info out there that tells you which way round the connectors go, ive searched the wiring diagrams and nadda. Can one of you guys have a look at your loom and tell me which connector goes to which plug or if anyone has a pic or info please let me have it!. Cheers Pete.

Well your timing and compression appear good. I would say that your MAF appears to be working if the car dies when its unplugged. Try plugs first if you say they are knackered, thats a cheap thing to replace.

think its approx 57mm from memory, im sure someone will verify that.

For the sake of about an hour or so's graft id pull the rocker cover/upper timing case off and check the cam timing.