tandino

Ive got a Mk3 in my driveway so that will cost me nothing :lol: ,i know the Mk3 is not the best candidate but a quick measurement suggests it will fit with a bit of trickery

Its not open 8:00 -19.30 every weekend nor is it open those times on both days, Sunday is ususally a shorter day - ie 11.00 -19.30. There are very few weekends where it is open both days at the weekend and open all day each day. You really need to plan it now as the opening times reign in in the evening as daylight drops away.

For that sort of cash id want a storm,leather and air con. 6k is top top money and it would have to be mint to justify that money, ie original paint, tight as a nats chuff to drive, matching quality tyres all round, not a spot of rot anywhere etc....

noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo :lol:

Problem is its only the rebound that is adjustable on Koni's so with it set on full soft the car will bounce, Ive tried loads of different settings on my Konigsports and the best compromise between body control and comfort is about 1/4 turn from full stiff on the fronts. Dont forget the shocks have about the same amount of rebound stiffness be it front or rear but obviously the fronts have alot more weight to control so you need to run more rebound damping up front in comparison to the rear imho...

He bought the rims from Jimmy :lol: Wish i had bought them now!!

I love the Nothelle's, Did you get them from Jimmy16v? I very very nearly bought the set he had up for sale, came that close. I think they look the bollards, If you ever want rid of em let me know! :lol:

At a guess id say coilpack from the symptoms, if you know someone with a VR that runs the coilpack set up its 5 mins to swap a coilpack over. Other than that get it VAGCOM'd as above...

If you want my honest opinion i wouldnt be that bothered about getting an ABV over an AAA. My car (1995 VR) had an AAA in when i bought it, i had a slight chain issue and found an ABV which i fitted, To be honest there is absolutely nothing in it performance wise, my AAA used 1 litre of oil in 6000 miles, my ABV uses a litre every 1500.... I think its much easier to find a good AAA than it is to find a good ABV due to the type of car they were fitted to and knowing what i do now i wouldnt pay any premium at all for an ABV over an AAA.... Hope it turns out ok for you. Cheers Pete.

Ahhh the good old Foxhole. Track looked damp coupled with lifting off the power with a bit of lock on, the circuit is pretty bumpy down the hill and it looks like he timed the throttle shut off with a steering input and surface change!

My mate was under pressure by us to get something hosted!,i think he did a bloody good job editing 2 hours of footage to something reasonable length. Im going to get him to host a full lap in my Corrado soon....

the oil temp sender would have been attached to your original loom. Are you still using your old clocks? If the loom (or more importantly the sender wire) is still under the bonnet then you will have to find somewhere to fit the oil temp sender as they dont have provision for it on the 20vt for some daft reason, you might be able to get a sandwich plate for the oil filter housing to T in a sender.

twitchy is his middle name! he loves drifting and used to have a 200SX so he loves a bit of sideways action :lol:

Video Compilation of my trip to the Nordscleife a few weeks back with a couple of mates, Cars:- my Corrado 2.9Vr, E36 M3 Evo Individual, E34 540i 6spd manual. Couple of swear words in there but nothing too bad!. Enjoy!! http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 4687&hl=en

I really value this guys opinion, Have a read (RWD19T)..... http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... ottle+body

Great effort at trying to twist everything that ive said! :wave: No way does a 4 branch = 35 brake up on what a healthy valver with a stock manifold makes manifold will add 10 brake on a good day... No i said you can't fit and forget carbs not throttle bodies... Also when you say not making adjustments once a year does that include trimming the CO that you invariably have to do once a year for the MOT on your KE-Jet?? Come on, When was the last time you saw a 'good valver' putting out 185@crank and 155lb/ft with only a 4 branch,45 DCOE's on 38 chokes and a Ashley 4 branch/mid section with a stock Bosal rear box. No i dont have before and after figures (this was about 9 years ago!) , what i do know is ive driven enough Golfs of all guises over the last 17 years and it pulled a hell of a lot harder after i fitted the carbs and this was born out with it being the 4th quickest (9th overall) brit Mk1 at Inters 2000 running 14.4 uphill with no LSD and a tired clutch. I also drove that car 90 miles a day on carbs for 2 years with no problems whatsoever. They are not a pain to run at all, this is someone with experience not someone who picked up a bit of pub banter and sprayed it over the 'net. Do you want me to tell you i got 17bhp (same RR) on my DX 8v lump with a set of 40's too?...

Cobblers! I actually stuck carbs on my K-jet car because it was so unreliable, Its fine when its new but as it gets older it get unreliable. the worst that happens with carbs is they go out of balance or the float settings need adjusting or as Neil has said after years the spindles wear, thats it!. Mince needed balancing about once a year which takes 5 minutes. As for losing low down torque thats a load of ballcocks too!, my 1.8KR made 155lb/ft peak, still had about 140 from 4000 rpms which is more than a stock valver. It also made 185@ crank so thats hardly a small increase, admittedly it had a 4 branch but thats hardly a small increase. Throttle bodies will be no trouble at all, fit and forget........

Mangoletsi used to make an inlet manifold for webers. You will also need a regulator to step down the fuel pressure as Carbs require high flow but low pressure. To be honest nowadays id go for throttle bodies over Carbs as the cost differential has decreased compared to what it used to be, no brainer really....

A Mk3 VR6 with a borked engine is worth about 500 quid tops!. You can pick up nigh on minters for about 2 grand. Better to find a head and fit it...

Use a trolley jack with the filter wrapped in a rubber mat or similar to prevent crushing and slippage, Raise jack up so it holds the filter against the underbody of the car , use spanner on the actual fuel filter to stop it rotating.

Its not actually cold though, watch the gauge when he turns the ignition on!

Whilst i find it believable to cross thread one wheel bolt to cross thread all i find a bit strange. the disc retaining bolt is all to easy to shear and will have no effect on the wheelbolts. Pics?

Sideblade or not that was a result of someone driving like an idiot down a bleedin bumpy road! :lol:

8x15's.......

Very nice We're all big kids at heart arent we :clap: