tandino

it wont be the dissy end thats the problem, it will be the plug recesses in the cylinder head full of water, just let the thing tick over for 1/2 hour, most of the water should evaporate from the recesses. Over the next couple of days it will eventually dry out.

Sounds like coilpack to me.

I think if i was going to be paying 2-300 quid for a rad id want an uprated Ally one for that sort of money. Have you enquired what Euro's and GSF rads are and who theyre made by?,lets not forget its not Vw who make the radiator themselves so you might be able to source a VW rad from the OEM supplier, id have a guess it would be made by BEHR or similar??

Think you need to start using a new garage!!

I had Black Forest Industries Poly mount inserts all round on my green VR6, cant remember the shure hardness of the material off the top of my head but they were between fast road and race mounts, sure when the engine and therefore the poly was cold it would vibrate through the car, once warm and over tickover it was fine, the gearshift and more importantly the driveline lurch you get when going on and off the throttle was banished, they totally transformed the car and thats from someone who's run with VT mounts all round. Its as already said a compromise, to me id sacrifice a bit of NVH for having an engine thats not wobbling around come braking,cornering, gearchanging or accelerating! :lol:

I was asking the question Kevin, that is all....... And I was adding my 5p aswell, so ...? :shrug: Well to me Kev it just seems like your just dismissing my suggestion....... How do you know its not run out or possibly pad build up on the discs?, you dont but you dismiss it as not a credible alternative to why the OP is having problems im just trying to offer advice and cover all bases, isn't that what its all about?. We dont know that the OP has 'exceeded the capabilities' of the brakes and we dont know that the car doesnt have problems with the braking set up - ie sticking caliper piston, run out or pad build up on the discs, my suggestion was to check every possible scenario...

I was asking the question Kevin, that is all.......

You dont actually need big brakes on the Ring!!, only time you need 'em is when you dont know the circuit!!!

In my experience and im not saying this is defo the case with yours but discs rarely warp unless theyve been hammered or have run out problems. You say you have had them a few months but done less than 1000 miles, so they are obviously hardly used. Have you checked for run out on the car before removing them?, you also want to check the hubs for run out too. Also the low mileage for the time theyve been fitted might mean the discs were oxidised and have got pad material build up on them causing judder or what could feel like warped discs. Worth checking them anyhow, if youve got run out issues with the hubs then new discs will not sure the problem and will go the same way eventually..

We've got 4 1/2 hrs of footage to sort through so a more polished vid will be up soon. I was speaking to a guy over dinner who compete's in the VLN, he's got a GT2 (ex press car), it had been sat for a while on grass before he bought it, damp grass and aluminium suspension wishbones dont go, wishbone failed through Wipermann and he took out 36m of armco!!, he's still waiting for the bill :lol: :lol: I love the place, we try to go twice a year but obviously thats fund dependant, im still learning the place after all those laps, i dont think you will ever feel that youve done the perfect lap until you have done hundreds and hundreds of laps.... Thats the challenge though..

Oh and just realised it was a 997 :lol: . He did well to keep it together on the grass :lol: :lol:

I think I'll be doing that, really good advice all round :) No point faffing with a 2.9 bottom end. I assume everything else from an existing 2.9 can be used including ECU. Just the 2.8 bottom end that is required? Yip, Stick the 2.9 inlet mani and throttle body on from yours and jobs a good un, Alternatively buy a later OBD2 Golf Vr and kill 2 birds with 1 stone :lol:

Ian, its Pete :lol: All ABV were 2.9, AAA were all 2.8 models, they were 81mm bore, ABV were 82.5mm bore. From my experience ABV are more prone to suffer with ovalised bores and as a result you get varying degree's of smoke after a lengthy overun session when you place your foot back hard on the throttle, ive had 4 ABV's and theyve all done this, my present one is the best in terms of it doesnt use any oil but you will still get a small puff after a long downhill 5th gear overun. No AAA's ive had have done this and the sweetest VR ive had was a 2.8, it seems that the ABV overbore is less tolerant of abuse in terms of the engine being overheated and the bores due to their thinner walls distort easier compared to the thicker walled 2.8. As for an overbore, personally dont bother, the capacity increase is something like 69cc difference, the rest of the power was made up by the different inlet manifold, throttle body and the cams are different part number. I reckon the capacity difference was about 3bhp!!. Most cost effective way is to buy a cheap complete rusty (plenty of them about!!!) Mk3 Golf VR and take the lump out and sell the rest!!. Hope this helps Cheers Pete

Quick video here, Handheld Iphone 4GS, most of our footage was with a screen mount on the Iphone or a Go Pro with a screen mount!, not this one as it was a bit of a last minute jump in the car lap. Anyone who knows the circuit, im really holding back until well through Hatzenbach as it was f**king slippery especially on RS2's!!!! Works out to about a 9.12 or thereabouts... And yes that was reving to about 9k at times!! And watch the Cayman S at A Forst!! http://www.vimeo.com/14401491

In short.... NO!!. youve got a wiring fault of some description going on there!!, it is a Corrado after all!! :lol:

Its bore increase that gives the extra capacity. Personally my opinion is dont bother with an ABV, in my experience the AAA is a stronger bottom end..

130'C?? It was my understanding that a good ester based synthetic would handle much more than 130'C, more like 150'C without degradation, thats certainly what Mobil would have you believe... Corrado's or the VR6 engine in general have never been spec'd to run fully synth from VW and yet most VR's run oil temps well in excess of 120'C in normal use let alone when driven on track - and all this on semi synthetic oil.

Hi Matt 8) :lol: Its a bit of a case of doing a bit above and a bit below, the studs facing the firewall can be done from above, the ones between the head and the manifold really need to be done underneath or at least some of them. Cheers Pete.

Afaik all obd1 vr's are 4 bar....

As already said, fan must be on fan speed one or higher, normal button is a/c on, max button is the recirc button, if its not kicking in then suspect no pressure in system...

As i thought, you cannot check front bearings for play until the hub nut is tightened to torque spec..

5-600 i would say. And it all depends on what your definition of a good VR6 is, By good i would mean minimal oil consumption - ie 1litre/3000miles, absolutely no smoke after a lengthy overun then booting it etc. No tappet noise, chains done etc etc...

300 quid for a new rad, Jesus, where do you go for work!!!

I'd say anything from 5k-9k, if its literally timewarp condition then towards the higher figure, if its got scratches dinks and marks and has done trips to the shops everyday and the engine has not got off its cold start map then the lower end of the price range. Air con, good colour and leather coupled with that sort of mileage are hard to find, if its as good as you say then someone will want it and will pay appropriately, you cannot buy a newer Corrado than your Mums so it has alot going for it IF its mint...

Wet line is different in places as you know, however on alot of the braking points before the corner you are on the dry line or crossing the dry line under braking, this is where my mate lost it in the Elise. Even the Marshal who took him round to check for armco damage said it was very slippery... Main thing is he drove it home and his ego suffered a bigger bash than his wallet, my mate in the 200SX was not so lucky, burst pipe at home whislt he was out there, ancilary belt snapped and his custom front brake discs cracked so badly from outer radius of the disc right into the mounting bell, you could fit a pound coin into the crack thickness wise, had to be recovered by ADAC back to the UK. Dukest, nothing crazy, Weitec GT Coilies, new VAG balljoints and trackrods, 1.5' negative camber up front, BBS RC 7.5 x 17 with Hankook V12 Evo's in 205/40/17 size, arches are rolled to the max though. Think im going to go powerflex on the rear beam as i want the rear end to be just on the oversteer side of neutral, it just felt too planted and i couldnt get it to play, to me lift off oversteer feels natural after having Mk1 golfs and 205gti's.. Cost me about 600 quid all in i guess but i bought my rind card from Ebay prior to going so saved a few quid there. Breakdown of costs:- Hotel for 4 nights (inc beers at hotel bar) £170 Spending money £200 Ring laps £150-200 - if you do 10-15 laps Petrol £200 Ferry £60 So if you do it on your own it can be expensive, my advice is to share your car with someone you trust and it brings the cost down massively