tandino

What's a 'Speed'? These:- There what ive got in my corrado, far superior to the VW Recaro's

Thats is a lovely corrado Ben!, Would love the 268's in mine, probably the next step for me. 230-240 is a bit ambitious i feel, 220-225 is more realistic but with the VGI its driveability that you want to aim for. If you really want to get the big numbers you could probably sell the VGI and be 75% there towards a s/h charger set up 8) . Have fun! Cheers Pete.

If thats as bad as it gets then why pass on a car that is otherwise A1??,these cars are 15+ years old now, s/hand parts are cheap and plentiful....

Recaro Speeds.....

Parts for sale??

Just get yourself a Bi Zenon kit, no comparison to anything you will fit, bonus is you also get a fused relayed loom included so you actually get about 14v at the lights, time you buy uprated bulbs which will still struggle with the 12.5 volts you will get at the headlight and then buy or make a uprated loom to actually make the bulbs work it is cheaper to buy a bi zenon kit. HTH Pete.

You dont technically need the heater on hot to bleed the system the matrix is always flowing with water even with the heater control dial set to cold, some earlier VW's had a regulation valve (ie Mk1 golf) which stopped coolant flow through the matrix when the control dial was set to cold but not the Corrado...

Its a pressurised system, you cannot run it indefinitely without the cap on!!, once coolant gets to 100'c it will boil!!! You run it up until the top hose gets hot, once this is hot the thermostat is open, put the cap on, let the coolant cool down then recheck the level.

It also holds another cable that i mentioned above, either speedo or reverse switch..

Its for a loom clip, the hole allows the clip to locate on the bracket.

Its to hold part of the loom, from memory the gearbox reverse switch or speedo drive, cant remember off the top pf my head...

Take the fan control relay off and shake it around, quite possible the diodes have fallen off the pcb board..

Thats the fan control relay by the sounds of things, could be part of your problem.

Easiest way is to get a multimeter across the fuse board, remove each fuse and set your multimeter up to measure current, go along each fuse until you find one that is drawing current, at least that way you can highlight the circuit thats the culprit.

What roof panel did you go for??, interested as my roof is borked and im deciding as to what direction to take, ive tried 3 different s/h roof mech and all have fooked up within a week or so, deciding if im just going to do away with the thing, its weight right where you dont bloody want it anyhow!!

6 1/2 inch components up front with a 10" sub in the boot is the way forward, you want the soundstage up front not behind you.

Get them to stick it on vacuum first and see if it hold the vacuum. You will probably struggle to undo all the unions now due to age without breaking something, in my experience the Corrado system is pretty damn good at holding its charge so you might just get away with it, if its got a big leak the vacuum test will show it up. If its got a small leak then theyre more difficult to find, ask if the air con place has a 'sniffer', they should put leak detect dye in as a matter of course too..

Picture of 'said' driveshaft?

Strimmer, there's two sides to that arguement. You could knowingly drive a car into a garage that had its engine mounts shot to pieces and hanging on by a thread, do you therefore think that a garage would be liable for replacing the engine mounts when they failed and the engine fell out because they drove a few yards on a test drive?. Sorry but in all my years driving VW, which is nearly 20 years and what would equate to hundreds of thousands of miles of driving in my own VW's ive never ever had a driveshaft snap no matter what abuse has been thrown at it with cars running significantly more than they are designed to run, in fact my old Mk2 20VT was running with a G60 box and shafts and was putting 280bhp through them, it got ragged on track and on the drag strip and never failed. Sure ive had a CV joint go but that was through age and wear and tear. I still stick to my point, this failure in my humble opinion was not caused by a few minutes of (debatable) over exuberant driving but a flaw in the shaft or the components it interfaces with. Shafts dont break, they are designed to take all that the engine can throw at it and more, CV joints yes, if they had done a CV then i would say there is a possibility they have done it driving like a twat but not a shaft..

Do a compression check, could be timing chain has slipped/snapped... Have you rotated the crank pully whilst looking at the keyway for the camshaft position sender??

Thats a pisser but paintless dent removal providing you get a decent guy doing it is amazing, I had a crease down the swage line of my old Corrado Vr on the passenger door about 2 inches long and a depression of about 3-5mm as if a shopping trolley had run down the side of the door, guy i use who train dentmaster staff got it out so that you couldnt even see it. Its woirth every penny, some ofthe guys will do a cash job, i know someone who will do mine for 20 quid a panel....

Mk1 MX5 then if its 2 seats... For that money you'd be looking at a BBR Turbo job..

Good cars both of them but not what you'd call FUN!

Impreza RA, no contest... If you can find a STI RA for that sort of money your on to a winner - 280+bhp, 1100kg,4wd with adjustable centre diff (drives like a RWD if you want it to) ,forged internals,intercooler water spray,no abs,no electric window crap, no electric mirror crap, no central locking crap, plate rear LSD, you wont find anything more bonkers for the money that is also usable everyday..

Fook me, 60 quid! Its about half hour labour to do it! Jack underneath sump with a block of wood to spread load, undo mount bolts (and the front mount to ease lifting) lift engine and swap mounts over. You could do it yourself with basic tools