Purple Tom

emu - will get pictures of the bits and pieces you want. A, B and C pillar trims are provisionally sold to a local lad but the A pillar trims have been slightly damaged by a muppet window fitter, not really visible when fitted but still there all the same. Boot plastics are good apart from the bootlid trim which is cracked. Centre tunnel is good, rear parcel shelf supports are good. I'll get pictures asap though. Tom

Will get pics asap for you :) Tom

Quickly decided that I'm unlikely to be able to sell the whole conversion so far better to sell bits individually :) neuon2003 - PM'd Andy - £23 posted for the PCV and pipework Cheers Tom

I'll check the door seals but please don't get your hopes up as I'm sure the drivers side is split where its been caught by feet over the years. There weren't any screwcaps on the doorcard screws, sorry mate!

It's only an 8V but I found standard, refurbished 280mm (don't forget the 8V originally only had 256's) brakes fitted with genuine VW discs and pads and braided hoses to be very good on 5 hard laps of the Nurburgring in 2009. No fade and plenty of pedal feel when bled properly. However I fitted 288's to my VR when I had that and I found them to be 100 times better than the old, worn out standard 280mm brakes. I personally think 288's are worth the money but if you're willing to spend a little on a refurb then the 280's can be good too. Don't suppose that's helped at all :lol: Tom

Hi, I've finally decided to break the Corrado VR6 that I bought as a project during the summer last year. If you're interested here's the reason why. It is a 1995 manufactured car, registered in March 1996 on an 'N' plate. It has done 117k and I have all of the old MOT's to confirm this. I drove it back to my house when I bought it and the engine felt great, really smooth and strong. It was advertised with a slight tapping noise at idle which I suspected would go away once the engine got properly warm, which it did. The car is currently up on axle stands in my garage and the engine can be heard running, although there is no exhaust so its a tad loud! It's running on fuel from September yet it still starts straight away. Pretty much everything from the car is available apart from the front hubs, suspension, wishbones, ARB and the rear beam/suspension components. Some parts have already sold but if there's anything you want that isn't listed please ask and I'll see if I've got it. Parts for collection only are to be collected from DE56 Derbyshire. Parts that can be posted are quoted INCLUDING postage. So...here's the main list of parts from the car: ------------------------------------------------ Exhaust Manifolds - £30 posted for the pair Alternator - non genuine but very new looking - £50 posted Coolant Pipes - all in good condition - £15 each posted Fan control module - £20 posted ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ABS position sensor - fully working, tested on my car - £35 posted Drivers side headlight - good condition, tiny stonechip on the lens - £40 posted ------------------------------------------------ There are LOADS of bits that I've not put, bits of trim and interior pieces etc. Please enquire and I'll let you know if I have them. Thanks! Tom

Might be worth checking all of the engine earths. I'm not sure about the G60 but the VR6 definitely has a crucial engine earth that is held by one of the starter motor securing bolts. If that was missing or loose then it could potentially cause the problem you're having. Check the other earths and also the battery earth wire while you're at it too. Tom

Ouch, the corrosion looks to be of a similar severity! I still can't understand the logic of putting filler over rust as a long-term solution. I think its OK if you only expect the car to live another year or two but for something like a Corrado I think the only option is to replace the steelwork with new steel. How long did the repair take? Tom

Just checked and it is definitely the right one - p/n 1H0 907 379 E. It is in excellent condition with no sign of water damage at all. The ABS worked fine on the donor vehicle. These generally fetch about £35 so I'll say £30 posted if you need it desperately. Tom

They are surprisingly cheap from Ford as its the same part for the Galaxy V6. The Ford part number is 7364573 and when I bought one a year ago they were £18.41 + VAT. But if you still need one then I have one - £15 posted. Tom

I've got one, I'll double check the P/N tomorrow for you. Tom

Hi everyone, Bit of a sad one this really, it signals the end of another Corrado unfortunately. At the start of September I bought a 1996 'N' Corrado VR6 from a lad local to me on this forum. I didn't pay a lot for it, considering its spec (twilight violet, 117k, full black heated leather, decent wheels, stainless exhaust, uprated discs etc), but it had quite a few dents and knocks, scratches, and a fair amount of rust around the N/S/R wheelarch. I bought it with the intention of putting it on the road, but I pretty soon came to the realisation that it needed a LOT of bodywork, probably too much to make it a viable project, so I decided that breaking it might be a better alternative. Here's a couple of pictures of how it looked until about 3 hours ago: Here's the rust around the N/S/R arch: It doesn't look that bad really. A bit of bubbling and a couple of scrapes but nothing particularly major you wouldn't have thought. This afternoon Ian (B4ILEY on here) came round and helped me do a few bits and bobs, including figuring out how to remove the door window exterior rubber trim. It was while doing that job that I noticed a small hole right on the underside of the N/S sill towards the rear of the car. Closer investigation with a screwdriver and then a small knockometer produced this: There's plenty of rust around the top of the windscreen too, not to mention the rear hatch which is pretty manky. As you can probably see, the rear sill was pretty much full of filler, as was the rear arch, all the way round to the rear bumper and rear panel. There's also a fairly sizable hole on the N/S doorstep which was also filled and painted. It's obviously had a quick 'bodge it and scarper' repair within the last 2 or 3 years, funny that there's nothing in the history. I just can't believe that someone would do such a bodgey repair and then spend a fair amount having the entire side resprayed, its good paint too! Such a shame because mechanically the car is 100% perfect! The interior is pretty good and if it wasn't for its tinworm issues it'd make a great project. I think its safe to say I am justified in breaking this car, as coupled with its numerous dents and scrapes on other panels it's just not worth putting back on the road! What I do have however is a great donor for the widetrack conversion on my 8V, along with lots of bits and pieces to keep many other C's alive and kicking. I'll start a for sale thread soon. Has anyone else seen one quite that bad? It seems to be the late Corrado's that suffer with corrosion more - something to do with the quality of paint/steelwork? Tom

I'm 99% sure I have one of these, from an 'N' plate VR6 so is likely to be one of the last Corrado's built. I've just left the workshop for the evening but I'll check tomorrow for you. Tom

No problem, good luck with it, it sounds like it'll definitely be worth all of the work once you get it back together! You could take the opportunity to re-wrap your new loom as well, check all of the wiring while its visible etc so you should eliminate any future potential electrical issues with the engine loom. Enjoy :-) Tom

Yeah the loom needs to be removed through the bulkhead into the bay. The 4 main wiring plugs are all individual and unique to their 'socket' in the back of the fusebox. To remove them there is a bar that needs to be slid to one side to release the plugs, its not easy to describe but you'll see when you have a look at the back of the fusebox itself. There will be a few smaller plugs and maybe a relay (there was on my engine loom) but they're all colour coded so refitting shouldn't be a problem. I did however take the precaution of making comprehensive notes when I removed my loom just to be sure that everything would go back in the right place. HTH Tom

I presume its a VR6? I've only ever removed the servo on a VR (with the engine out) but I think it'd be easier with the engine in situ than for example the 8V that I have now - the VR6 engine doesn't have the inlet manifold in the way like the 4 cylinder cars. However, engine out makes it far far easier! When you remove the master cylinder you will indeed get a lot of brake fluid leakage. I always use a small syringe to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir before removing the brake pipes. You can block the master cylinder union connections using bolts of the correct size to prevent fluid loss from the M/C but you'll get some fluid coming out of the pipes that lead to the ABS pump. You can make up some plugs using brake unions if you've got a brake pipe flaring tool etc. Good luck with it!

The only way is to remove the servo, which is held in place by 4 nuts accessible from inside the car behind the pedal box. You'll also need to disconnect the servo actuating rod from the brake pedal which is simple to do as its a pin with a spring clip holding it in place. Is the engine in or out? Its far easier to remove the servo with the engine out as you can remove the two bolts securing the M/C to the servo and then gently move the M/C out of the way without removing the brake pipes (but being careful not to bend/kink them). Once you've decided what to do with the M/C (either move it out of the way or remove completely), then you're on to removing the servo itself which if I'm honest is a total pig to remove, in fact I found it the most difficult job when I did my OBD2 conversion. However once you've got it at the right angle its not too bad. Once the servo is out the loom is easily visible where it goes through the bulkhead just behind the O/S suspension turret. You'll need to drop the fusebox down to fully see where it comes through the bulkhead as its a bit of a rats nest of wiring up there, however its fairly straightforward once you've got it all visible. Hope that helps! Tom

I also am a firm advocate of winter tyres. My local Ambulance authority have invested in a pair of Snowsocks for every one of their ambulances and I watched with interest as the Paramedics fitted them to their motor to get it off a slightly inclined car park. It took about 10 minutes to fit them and when I asked how long they could keep them on for they said "until we get back onto the tarmac, and we can't do more than 30mph with them on". What this boiled down to for me was that although the ambulance did have a semblance of adverse weather mobility, it took far too long to mobilise it effectively, costing a lot in time and resources. Snowsocks cost £60/pr, which is the equivalent of £120 to equip all 4 wheels. In terms of their practicality, I think compared to winter tyres they come a very definite second place. I also think that although it might cost £300 to equip an ambulance with winters all round (if purchased at the right time), the savings in terms of time taken to fit and operational effectiveness would be noticed almost straight away. Imagine if you were in need of an ambulance and you could hear it coming but it couldn't reach you because of the snow and its crew had had to stop, waste 10 minutes putting snowsocks on to drive the last 500 yards to you, only to have to stop and take them off again before they could get on their way to hospital - a very real, possible scenario with untreated housing estates etc. I know its only one example and I am definitely biased as I've been running winters since before the snow came and have had NO trouble getting anywhere. But winter tyres, in terms of both practicality and value for money, beat any of the products listed by the OP hands down. Just my thoughts :)

Sorry guys - terrible advice from me, I think I'm getting muddled up with towing on a dolly, forgot about MAM and the brakes on each wheel. Plus my experience is from years ago when towing one Scammell with another, with the air lines connected through suzi's so the brakes and steering functioned on the 'dead' vehicle. Ignore me and just get a trailer!

If the towed vehicle is attached to the towing vehicle solidly, i.e with a rigid bar, then you have no problem as the towed vehicle is classed as a trailer and is covered by the towing vehicles' insurance. However, if you're towing with a rope then both vehicles need to be taxed, insured and MOT'd, unless you're going to an MOT station with an appointment in which case the towed vehicle doesn't need to be taxed or MOT'd. Insurance is still a must though.

I have all of this on a VR6 that I'm about to break. Its all in black and all in good condition, can sort out some pictures for you if you'd like?

This is the part number that you want - VW should sell them individually and they should be black headed rivets of the correct size. N 90576301

I've gone for 185/55R15's as they're slightly narrower than standard and therefore slightly increase the ground pressure, in turn increasing grip (theoretically!). They fit fine on standard VR6 Speedlines as I had one trial fitted to a Speedline to make sure it wasn't too 'stretchy' - was absolutely fine. In the end I've opted for a set of 6x15" Bora steelies purely because they were free and I'm not bothered if I kerb one - although the tyres make kerbing in snow a thing of the past! Incidentally, Wendy, they are Vredestein SnowTrac3 tyres - definitely recommended :)

I know how I keep going on about my winter tyres, but they really are amazing! I work in the funeral business and after taking my boss for out for a ride in the Corrado we now have a set of winter tyres on one of the removal vehicles (private ambulance) - he's a convert and says the hearse and limo's will get them soon too :) Anyway, this morning we had roughly 18" of snow on my drive. With a little bit of effort the Corrado got out and all the way to work through my usual country lane route. I couldn't take the main road because a fallen tree had blocked the way. I couldn't resist stopping for a few pictures: I should add that the amount of snow on the front of the car was impeding airflow to the radiator somewhat, hence the open windows and the heater on full power - the engine works hard in these sort of conditions! I cleared it all out before leaving work this afternoon. A smaller fallen tree nearly blocked the lane too: Finally made it to work, after stopping on the way to pick up 3 of my colleagues who were walking: And the only other vehicle to make it in to work - slight difference!! The Corrado is fantastic, literally hasn't put a tyre wrong: Winter tyres, oh yes :D

11" of snow on my drive. The Corrado went down it and reversed all the way back up earlier on. Perfect :)