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Read somewhere on this forum recently that if the cam position sensor on the VR6 goes faulty the ECU will default to limp home mode which reduces power by approx 30BHP & uses a richer map to protect the engine hence very poor MPG. If the temp sensor/thermostat are ok then this may be worth checking. Dont ask me where it is or how to check it, Ive never been the proud owner of a VR6, but I'm sure some helpful person on here would be able to point you in the right direction. Mick G60

OOPs should have realised its a diesel with those figs. Anyway the Corrado is the sum of all its parts & in my view there hasnt been a car with such beautiful lines thats as much fun to drive for that sort of money before or since, thats why we drive & luv em...

Good morning, Ive woken this morning in a world I no longer recognise, opened last Saturdays Times mag to see a double page ad for the GM insignia 2.0CDTi ecoFLEX (Vauxhall cavalier). It quotes 160 PS & 350Nm of torque what? CO2 emissions 136g/km & up to 54mpg combined fuel consumption, wow is that really possible? I think we must have reached the top end for efficiency from a 4stroke reciprocating petrol engine (diesels dont count) surely. :shock:

Dont you believe what you were told? sounds feasable to me.

This is very bad news, we are thinking of you millerman after this tragic event, I think I'll keep a 10mm spanner handy in the car to whip the battery connection off , could be a Corrado saver although by the time you see smoke the looms gonna be fubaaaaaa. Mick

Is that why I see more in the summer? must be time to take the wraps off soon for Eggster :D

Took mine off about 8 years ago along with the flappy bits that attatch to the splitter that used to bend down & scrape along the road making a horrendous noise. These 2 mods are essential for trouble free motoring.

Check your wheel nuts are tight, sounds drive shaft related, there is a vibration damper which is a steel ring held to the longer driveshaft with moulded rubber which eventually lets go & you have a heavyish ring of steel free to move up & down the driveshaft knocking against things or could just be cv joint breaking.

Track rod ends are easy when you know how, just requires 2 heavy hammers, hold one firmly against one side & give the opposite side a sharp tap with the other, taper end will fall out. Works every time :shock: Mick

100 Miles per charge & thats when new, with any luck it wont make it down south from Sunderland, they'll be conking out all over the place with flat batteries. I want to see a proper green car, fuel cell technology or better.

Quote: Where does lower rear one on throttle body go to? Also, the one on the end of t/b, near boost return pipe, and intercooler pipe, does this get blocked, as charcoal canister is removed?? Both need blocking if charcoal canister is removed. everything else you stated was correct.

Got the steering geometry checked by the local Tyre shop which "specialises" in geometry/alignment with a Hunter rig. You get before & after printouts & what a difference it made. Completely nicer car afterwards, just felt so planted & secure at any speed & that was after the main dealer had replaced front hub bearings & kept car another day to " set the geometry". Seems even small adjustments can make a noticeable difference

Adjusted the handbrake, it was getting more vertical by the day, never done it before. When I got the bits of plastic tunnel off I was shocked to see one cable was about an inch longer than the other & one locking nut was missing. Adjusted up the slack on the longer cable & adjusted the other side to get as near straight as possible & fitted a 10mm locking nut. Made sure everything is loose when off & brakes not binding. Now works OK on 3 clicks, successful 30min job.

Ive had my J reg G60 for 16yrs, just love the thing. Coolant loss 1st things to check are the plastic flanges on the head, the one at the front with the temperature sensors & the one on the right hand end. I have replaced both mine, the sealing ring goes soft & falls apart eventually & as stated previously the one at the front can develop hairline cracks that are difficult to see until you take it off. Also worth replacing the sealing rings on the sensors while your at it. Starting has never been a problem with mine, I found early on that if I touch the throttle it doesnt start from cold so I just keep my right foot away from the peddle & it starts 1st time every time. Mick

When i unplug a sensor at the back of the throttle body it revs ok but the idle increases, whats this sensor supposed to do? When you say sensor are you sure you are not unplugging the the switches that are operated by cams on the throttle butterfly? there is one microswitch which opperates when the throttle is completely closed for the idle circuit & there is another microswitch operates on full throttle & richens the mixture slghtly. If its that plug then I would expect the idle to change like you say. If engine then revs ok I would check wiring to switches & with engine off operate the throttle butterfly by hand & listen for the click of the microswitches to make sure they are operating.

Any update on this one G60ASH? Its benefits everyone if you update with what you found & how you fixed it.

Is the idle airscrew still in place, they have a habit of getting loose as the rubber sealing ring perishes & then it vibrates out. My G60 was idling oddly turned out to be the airscrew was loose & just about to fall out, literally about half a turn from falling out. I think new ones are still available with sealing ring at the dealers part no 037133432 for a couple of pounds if you need one. Mick

This may sound obvious but human breath contains a lot of moisture, even if the car is completely watertight you need to open window with heater on to dispel it, short journeys from cold will cxause problems.

Reconnect your earth, its very important to have good earths, your idle problem will probably dissapear. Mick

See new thread south coast meet Sun 13th Dec Smugglers Haunt (arms??) :lol:

Hi guys, bought my G60 in 93 from Diamonds Creekmoor, now 16 years later & still a beautiful drive, best £12.5k I ever spent. Used most days in & around Bournemouth it has been ultra reliable, what a car..... :luvlove: Mick

Just put Braille in the search box under engine bay there are over 30 threads about Braille batteries :clap:

Been having a closer look at these bulbs, they're 12v 1.1w which sounds about right. Looks as if it would be fairly easy to convert them to LEDs with the help of a small soldering iron. When I get round to putting the new ones in I'll pull the old ones apart & see how feasable conversion to LED is. I know some people have customised the whole cluster illumination but I'm not sure if the dimmer still works correctly. Mick

Favourite place for G60 to leak coolant is both plastic flanges on the head, one at the front with the 2 temp sensors & the other on the R/H end looking from infront. I have replaced both of mine in recent years, the one at the front cracked about 4 years ago & the one on the R/H end had been weeping for years unbeknown to me but I would have to topup the coolant every couple of weeks & there was a slight smell of hot coolant when I lifted the bonnet with a hot engine but I could never see where it was coming from until the sealing ring got so bad that I could see the leak. Now that a new flange & sealing ring have been fitted its completely coolant tight & doesnt need topping up anymore & the telltale smell has gone. Hope this helps Mick

Got a couple of these a few months ago from the dealers, cost £1.69 each inc VAT. Part number quoted on invoice is V4A0 919 040 C BJ05 BULB, havent got round to fitting them yet. Looks identical to bulb in picture guide except the plastic base is bright orange, hope they're the correct ones. dealers can be a bit hit & miss sometimes with parts. Mick