Album56

Glad you were able to sort it out but how had the timing changed? Was the distributor not clamped tightly. Confused as to how this can happen

I have had G60 for 16yrs, the PG motor is a good reliable lump, should be good for at least 150k & probably a lot more provided its not overeved when cold & has had regular oil/filter changes but it does get hot underthe bonnet which eventually affects rubber/plastic/loom. Check for coolant leaks at the two flanges, one in front & one on R/H end of head, check flexible fuel pipes, there are 3 , 2 on pipes from/to tank & 1 on R/H end of fuel rail to a pressure switch, check vacuum pipes at back of throttle body etc for leaks. check wiring to lambda is good look down behind L/H side to see plug/wires low down. These are some of the most common sources of problems, I have also had 2 thermostats, they eventually seem to fail open, a new blue temp sensor, a new front engine mount, a new plastic dip stick guide which gets brittle , a new starter motor & thats about it for 16yrs 110,000 miles of very reliable/enjoyable motoring. Good luck with yours Mick

hows your throttle cable adjustment? The reason I ask is I found I wasnt getting full throttle with the peddle hard against the plastic stop on the floor when I first got it. By adjusting the outer cable clip under the bonnet to take up the slack & cutting approx 1/4" off the plastic stop I now get full throttle & a much more responsive car. My stock G60 will pull from 1k rpm in 5th gear smoothly & no pinking with 97 octane fuel but doesnt really get going until 2k. Also performs noticably better on a cool day as the intercooler has more effect I guess. Mick

Apparently they do fit see Ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-CORRADO-VR6-BO ... 7C294%3A50, might still need to dremel your lobes tho...

Yeah Dremel your lobes with new standard blades works fine, spent years bending the arms trying to get better blade/winscreen contact pressure then realised that as the spindles wear these lobes actually stop the blade contacting the screen properly. took a few mm off carefully with a drill bit & now they're great. Mick :wave:

Got it done this afternoon, the plug/wires are behind the bottom right hand corner of the membrane, fiddly trying to unclip the wires, I found it useful to unclip the small plastic inspection plate, also fiddly to get the door handle off unless you know how, the other end of the handle has a kind of hooked end which means you have to pull the lock end out almost at right angles to the door to unhook it. Fitting the repair kit wasnt easy, had several attempts to remove the pin, finally pushed it in the opposite direction when trying to get the screw to grip & then managed to pull it out. Fitting the new part again was tricky trying to hold the end of the spring out of the way while manouvering the new part into position but eventually did it. The membrane did stick back ok & putting the wiring clip back was fiddly again & then putting door card back getting the lock pin thro the hole in the top where the little plastic knob screws on was made easier with some tape to guide it thro the hole. Everything else was a doddle after that. The door now opens again, What a relief. Thanks to everyone for your useful pointers. Mick :clap:

Thanks again guys, this forum is a godsend, doesnt look like I'll be doing this today its still raining quite hard in sunny Bournemouth. Looks like its the bottom lefthand corner of the membrane to reveal the plug but I understand the wires are held by 2 clips to keep them clear of the window so I may need to peal back membrane more to unclip the wires. Mick

Praying for fine weather produced predictable rain/wind, keen to get on with this now, anybody got any advice on how to preserve the membrane whilst trying to release plug/wires from door please. Mick

Mines the same on my 92 G60, havent yet bothered to fix it as the washer hadnt been working properly on the rear window for some time, went from a proper spray to a mini spray that only reaches the bottom third of the wiper & poking pin/wire into the jet didnt help. Maybe I'll get round to it next week after the door handle has been fixed. Praying for fine weather. Mick

Thanks guys, that would explain it. I did see when looking on Vagcat for the part number afterwards that one bolt was listed as left hand thread but dismissed it as being nonsensical. Well as I say there is a new bolt + washers coming next week so armed with the new info I should only have to struggle getting the pin out & fitting the new part now. Strange that the quite detailed instructions on how to remove/replace the door handle that I printed out from the CCA website didnt mention this anomally. Mick :salute:

Finally got round to repairing the drivers door handle with a repair kit purchased from our buddy on this forum the other day. I found removing the door card was easier than I thought once I worked out how to split the inside closing handle to expose the 2 screws. The dampproof membrane was intact & fixed on the bottom & sides with a black mastic type substance & a clear sticky substance at the top. Then the problem started, I couldnt budge the big screw/bolt that holds the outside handle. The handle had been replaced about 9 years ago by the dealer last time it broke & they obviously didnt put any grease on the threads & tightened it within an inch of its life. It will not budge after WD40 etc & now the slot has started to mangle even with a perfect driver. I'm going to drill it out next week & have a new screw & washers on order at the dealers, so have put it all back for the moment. One thing if anyone can tell me, where is the plug & how much of the membrane do you have the pull off to unhook the wires please. Mick

If its a track rod ball joint thats been replaced then it adjusts the toe & I was advised many years ago when working on a mini that front wheel drive cars should have the front wheels parallel to each other & the car. Had my G60 checked & re-aligned after main dealer had replaced front hub bearings at the local tyre dealer that has a laser wheel alignment machine & what a difference, the main dealer had the car for an extra day & made a right mess of it, but after the "Hunter" machine was used it was perfect.

They dont wear out as such, the blue one which goes to the ECU can affect performance if it goes faulty as mine did after 14yrs but if the car passed emission test ok then its unlikely to be that, also with mine it affected the idle making it hunt from 800-1500 rpm. Its worth checking around the vacuum pipes & intercooler pipes for leaks if you havent already as that can have affects on performance & running. Regards Mick

I think they're called constant pressure spring hose clips or something like that, I have used mole grips to remove clip/hose quiet successfully & I have re-used a couple without any problem. Mick

As a tempy measure I used an exaust clamp to keep it away from the wheel end where it was banging around but be very careful that the ends of the clamp do not foul anything allowing for suspension movement etc. I drove for a couple of weeks like that until a new driveshaft was fitted without problem. Mick

As a tempy fix your local B&Q has a set of "O" rings , theres about 20 of them on a card varying sizes in the plumbing dept, something like 94p. I have found one of them fits ok when my local dealer told me it was a discontinued item. Mick

G60 FOR 15YRS, AMAZING CAR, 1 NEW BACKBOX ON EXAUST, A COUPLE OF WHEEL BEARINGS, FRONT STRUT BEARINGS REPLACED, DOOR HANDLES REPLACED A COUPLE OF TIMES, NEW BATTERY EVERY 4 YRS, VERY VERY RELIABLE!

Always use Shell V-Power in my stock G60, will pull up a 1in10 hill starting at the bottom in 5th gear 1000rpm approx 30mph floor the pedal, no pinking just smooth power. Amazing car & amazing fuel Mick :D

Had the same happen on mine a few years ago, got a new driveshaft fitted tho because its actually a vibration damper that helps preserve your differential bearings etc from an early demise. Mick

Hi Dave, Can you pm me details (price/delivery/payment) of your door handle repair kit. Thanks Mick

Are you sure there is no oil leaking from rocker cover? My G60 has occasional stink especially when hot & it looks like rocker cover gasket leaking at back & occasional oil drip onto exaust manifold causes smoke/stink for a few minutes. Mines going to have new gasket next week, hope that fixes it. Mick

Had something similar on my standard 92 G60, revs would hunt from 500 to 1500 when warm, in my case turned out to be faulty blue temp sensor which had gone open circuit which meant mixture was rich but the isv was trying to compensate hence the hunting. Available at dealer only a few pounds, get new sealing ring & very easy to replace. Do it with cold engine & keep cap on expansion tank & you shouldnt loose any coolant. If you have a multimeter on ohms range you can check it , starts at something like 3k ohms with cold engine & drops to approx 200 ohms or less when hot. Mick