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Hi Phil, usual suspects on a G60 with your symptoms are the vacuum pipes from the throttle body, one to the ECU & the other to the evaporative carbon filter valve. both are very small pipes off the back of the throttle body & prone to splitting/breaking at the throttle body end after years of hot/cold treatment. Also the very small pipe to from the inlet manifold to the fuel pressure valve has the same problem. If any of these are leaking then it will affect idle/running as you describe. Suggest you check those 1st if you havent already. Mick

The CO pot was still available from the dealers about a year ago if you want a new one it might be worth trying them.

G60 had the charger changed yesterday, had been making some strange wizzing noises spinning up from cold which disappeared after a few minutes of driving but also sometimes a bit clattery on idle when hot. Had done approx 125k miles since fitted without a rebuild !! On inspection after it was removed the the little toothed belt had most of its teeth missing, phew must have got the replacement fitted just in time. Replacement was purchased a couple of years ago from one of our colleagues on this forum, had been fitted as a new charger to a rado by a dealer in London & done approx 25k before the car was a write-off. In 2003 the supercharger was £1762 inc VAT parts & £200 lab fitted by Dovercourt. After 2yrs in a box in my wardrobe with the occasional manual turn I put a dribble of good quality synthetic oil into both the oil feed & drain holes a few days before it was due to be fitted & turned it several times to distribute it. Fitted & now running well without any nasty noises. Also got the thermostat replaced, old one was getting tired, symptoms ran cool on the open road but hot in traffic. Now gets up to 80c quicker & stays there over much wider range of driving conditions. Oh & it got another years MOT. Happy G60 owner ---------- Post added at 9:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:33 PM ----------

Try replacing just the thermostat 1st. Tired or faulty thermostat can cause all your symptoms.

Is your idle microswitch on the throttle body clicking ok when you take your foot off the accelerator. I have always found my G60 starts 1st time if I dont touch the throttle when cranking but struggles to start if I try to use the throttle.

CO pot sealing ring?

Hi matey, looks lovely from the pics, silver does something for the rado I think. Hope she is good mechanically, cars dont like being not used for a period as I'm sure you are aware. Welcome to one of the most rewarding cars for the price, I think the combination of chassis & steering feedback in standard set-up with good tyres (I always buy Michelins for my G60) & performance makes it one of the safest cars to drive in all conditions & especially in icy conditions I have found. Enjoy

Also its a good idea to drip some good quality synthetic oil of the correct viscosity into the oil feed & drain holes before fitting & make sure the thing turns smoothly by hand with slight resistance before fitting if its been on a shelf for a while.

Fan running after switch off is normal. The G60 gets very hot under the hood after a run & has a separate temp sensor mounted by the manifold to cool things down, this operates independently of the rad sensor. Idle has fast on start up facility & 1100rpm would be about right after start up for a few seconds when hot but nearly cutting out suggests idle settings not quite right & you should be able to adjust the idle screw at the back of the manifold &/or the CO pot to improve things, see threads for G60 idle setting. Enjoy your car Steve sounds like nothing to worry about really.

My G60 almost stock, 68mm pulley & chip, does at least 350 miles on a tank of V power (15 gal tank), mostly short journeys with the occasional weekend run & I dont drive slowly. The secret is to keep it up together & make sure the timing is on the sweet spot with a G60.

May be still available at the dealers, I got a new one about 18mths ago, the size of the hole in the banjo is important to control oil flow correctly.

Fitted a rebuilt 90Amp Bosch alternator to replace the tired old 65Amp original, very good service from GSF via ebay arrived next day with free delivery, took old one back to local branch & got surcharge re-funded same day. The G60 had also been weeping fuel from the pressure switch connected by short pipe to fuel rail, ordered new switch on Thurs, collected & fitted it today. Stopped the occasional whiff of V power in the cab, heady stuff ---------- Post added at 8:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:43 PM ----------

Indicator relay?

I have a G60 but I cant make out from your pics where it is

92 G60 here, has Supercharged G60 in red under the body coloured CORRADO badge.

If its like mine you just quote the code number on the existing fob & the new one will work when it arrives.

Bad or non existant earth connections can cause ECU circuit board earth to burn out causing overfueling.

When you used the analyser the blue sensor was disconnected? A faulty sensor can make the ECU think the engine is cold when its not & overfuel your engine. Did you check with the analyser after you had set the CO & reconnected the blue sensor? A faulty sensor could also make starting difficult with very rich mixture.

Well thanks Shell, use V power all the time but neither of my local stations are taking part

Its another rip off under the guise of green taxation, I havent been into London by car since about 1972 & now theres no chance of it ever happening again thank goodness...

Was the earth cable from the battery fixed back to the bell housing after clutch work? Good earth connections are very important on the G60 for proper running. The main negative battery cable runs from the battery to an earth point to the bodywork behind the battery then on to the bell housing. The other important earths are for the ECU on the coolant flange stud r/h end of head & the earth from the bulkhead coil bolt to the throttle body. Symptoms could also indicate an air leak into the throttle body by broken or detached vacuum pipe, important one from the back of the throttle body to the ECU needs to be checked as they are prone to cracking & leaking at the throttle body end, also check idle screw is in place as they can work lose & drop out letting air in

Might just need a good charge, we are exactly at the worst time of year for poor car batteries. Lights, wipers, fans, stereos & that electrically heated back window all use the available output from the alternator leaving little to re-charge battery, if you do mostly short journeys in the dark lately then battery never recovers from 400-500 amp starter drain. If battery is 4 or 5yrs old it may be getting to the end of its life, if its newer I suggest you get 10A charger & leave battery on charge for a day.

As far as your rad fans running after switch off is concerned, it may not be a fault, I know for a fact the G60 has a underbonnet temp sensor which runs the fan after switch off if the temp is above its threshold, mine does it all the time in the summer & after a run in the winter, poor battery takes a pounding. I dont know if the VR6 is the same but it may well be, needs a VR6 driver to confirm, I just dont want you to change the rad temp switch/sensor unecessarily.

That looks like the boot lifting spring/plunger, its fitted in the boot lid to the left of the catch & lifts it slightly when you pop the catch so you can lift it easily.

Backlights for LCD displays not worked for about 10 years, got the new lamps about 2 years ago, its on my to do list, along with the window thingys I bought on hear last year........