cliveyp

i have, but to be onest, i think it's probably i price that would get laughed at, but you know how it is when you're attached to something and you don't really want to sell!! :roll: I think i would be looking over 7000 to be honest. I'll just wait for the torrents of abuse about it not being worth that now! :-P

kuksool - i'd need a good price to tug it away from me though! Especially with Paul convincing me to keep it! :wink:

I see what your saying Paul, it's more the running costs and insurance that are gonna cripple me. We have a hefty deposit and know that we can afford it all to start with, but these things never go to plan. I have lots of thoughts for the car and would like to see them through, i'm just worried that i'll start to struggle and have to let it go for a stupid price (either because i need it to go straight away or because it really has depreciated that much). I'd like to think that at the moment i would make my money back on it, maybe a little profit, but i was just testing the water to see if this was likely. Of course, if i decide to keep it then any donations of stupidly cheap suspension and wheels etc would be greatfully received!! :lol:

Wondering if i should sell before buying a house or keep it and see how long i can afford it for. M plate VR6 in AquaBlue Pearl. T&T, 66k, FSH, one previous keeper, completely original and standard (even still has original dealer plates and tax disc holder!), good condition. etc etc etc. See if i'm gonna loose much on it if i do decide to sell up.

i've got a slight noise coming from that area. I caan only assume that it's the timing chain anyway. Not too loud, but then i should flipping hope not, ive only got 66k on the thing!!

I wouldn't be surprised in the slightest if he gets confused on reading this coz there seems to be a lot of to-ing and fro-ing with the correct little details. Basically, like Dave says, you need to turn the amps x-over to FLAT, as changing to low will only feed lows to your 6x4's/sub and flipping to high would send high to your 6x4's/sub. Not good for at least one of your speakers in each case. I would, to make it easy, flip to flat with the bass eq off (as Dave says), then pop to Halfords or the like and get a treble blocker (the coil to pass only lows to your sub) and slap that in the positive line of your sub feed. Let your 6x4's run full range and see how they cope, they should be OK. My major qualms (sp?) run with Daves explanation on x-overs though. Just because a x-over is external to the amp, does not make it passive. A passive filter is one that is not powered by an external supply. Active x-overs would take an RCA input and split into different range RCA outputs to take to amps. Passive would take an amplified speaker line as an input and output it as a split frequency speaker level. HTH 8)

My MFA outside temp doesn't work. I've read on here that all VR's MFA's should show outside temp and the sensor is located in the bumper in the drivers side brake cooling duct area. I went investigating and i've found what looks like the end of a thermocouple held in an off-white plastic grommet. Is this it?? I also have a big red kill switch type thing in the engine bay sitting to the RHS of the engine as you look at it. It's on the front of a small fuse box. There seems to be a dust cap swiging around underneath it. What does this switch do? Can i take the red handle off and replace it with the dust cap, or is this how it should be?? Thanks

Great, cheers!

Mine stalls occaisionally. Couple of times per week ish. Thought it was the ISV originally, so i gave this a blast out with some brake cleaner and a bit of WD40. Didn't seem to make much difference though. When starting, the revs shoot up to about 1500 then work their way down to about 680. Also turns over for a couple of seconds before it actually fires too. All related to one fault do you think? :?

I've gained a clunk on mine too. Not sure if it's CV joint or top mounts. I've found it only happens if on lock (not necessarily full lock) and accellerating (even gently). On contant throttle or lifting off, it does nothing, but hit that power again and theres a slight clunk. Could this be top mount?? :?

Phoned round a few places a couple of weeks back. Think it was German, Swedish and French that quoted me about 9 quid each incl. VAT. 8) Presuming the C is not too far away from the MK2 Golf setup then it's quite an easy job. Pop open the bonnet and undo the top nut holding the cover down on the top of the turrets, whip the wheel off and jack the car up. You may be able to do this now without removing the struts, but i'm not sure how much room there is in the arch. Using compressors, compress the spring and undo the top mount nut. The top mount then lifts off, replace it with a new one and bang it all back together. The top mount nut is a pegged job so make sure you've got the right tool before taking it all off! HTH

16V is 10mm lower than the 8V, but be carefull as it may be that the 16v lump is heavier and therfore the front of the 8V would sit high with 16V springs on.

great, cheers! 8)

that's the 2 screws on the top, and the third?? :?

I need to change my headlight bulb in the drivers side headlight. Whats the easiest way to get access to it?? The airbox and associated plastic inlet around the headlight completelt surrounds it, so i take this lot off or pull the headlight out and change them?

My MFA doesn't show outside temp either!! Didn't think any of them did so i'd have to live with it, but that's annoyed me now!! I have driven time, mpg, miles and oil temp, that's it! :mad:

I would have had them off you, had i owned, or even been thinking of owning, the C back then!

Putting the rest of mine in this weekend. Power cable will run, like most others, down the passenger side sill. RCA cables down one side of the centre tunnel, remote lead down the other side. Speaker cables back up to the front doors from the one amp are then running up the driver side sill and across the dash.

So, should i get one or should i drill my airbox and get a panel? :?

They look sweet Paul! Fancy swapping them for mine? :lol:

To me, mines worth about 8k i reckon, just coz i like it so much! If i was to put her up for sale, i'd probably start advertising at about 7k just because of the low mileage on her (63k). But then, i don't want to sell her yet anyway so that's irrellevant (sp?). If she did go then i think i'd look for an A3 1.8T or S3. :?

Thought the Golf filters were bigger?? The rado airbox looks very narrow compared to what i remember of a MK3 one. Might just go for the K&N and a heat shield.

MPG is run off a vac hose off the inlet manifold i believe.

i must admit, mine has a bit of a chain rattle (well i think that's what it is) faintly audible inside the car up to about 2-2500rpm. Seems to do it slightly more when cold too. Normal??? The car has done 63k now.

At 21 i bought my first Dub, a MK2 8V GTI, then another near enough exactly the same replaced that one when i was 23. I'm now 25 and have owned my 94 VR for about a month! 8)