winchbietch

Hi Kev Coilpack and badge arrived. Thanks. Paul

Thanks mate, when roughly do you think you will be able to post the recaro brand? I only ask as i will need to give the trimmer a heads up. Thanks. Paul

Payment sent, and pm replied Many thanks Paul

Hi Kev, il take the vr6 badge and bosch coilpack. Pm me details and i will send payment. Paul

Hi Rams Would i be able to borrow the recaro ally brand you had made Paul

Heignsight's a bitch :-) If interest warrants i could ask the guy if he was interested in a group buy though? Save a few quid and if everyone was happy to pay the full price the saving could be donated to the forum. What are peoples thoughts? Paul

Once there fully saturated you take them out and bung them in the oven or radiator to dry out Then there ready to go back in the car. All info should be in the link,

I bought 2 for good measure, one hooked over the interior mirror and other on the parcel shelf. No condensation at all now - even when the car was fully covered in snow yesterday

Just thought i would share a product that im very pleased with, Keeps the inside of the rado dry as a old nun lol No more moisture on the glass. DRY AIR CAR/HOME DEHUMIDIFIER BAG MOISTURE ABSORBER/DAMP EATER http://bit.ly/SGyUex

No problem, like i say pictures didn't turn out brilliant but gives you the general idea.

Ok guys il have to do this in two stages as computer is hormonal, pics to follow. - of the seat lol Appologies for ****e picture quality.. With seat out of car. Remove the 3 phillips screws from the motor cover under the front of the seat - remove cover There are 6 cap head bolts per seat frame to the runner - remove Plastics are held on the same bolts. I cut the zip ties that hold the wiring to the frame to allow more movement On the sides where the seat tilts you have plastic covers, locate the 3 plastic dowel clips on each - use a pin punch or equivelent to gently push them through. Dont loose them Gently lift cover off noting the outer of the clips are part of the outer plastic cover you are removing, so go carefully - (a butter knife to gently tweak them out squarely worked for me.) On the bottom of the seat back there is a plastic clasp running the full width of the cover, image is base seat clasp You need to unclip this, its a bitch job and the plastic can be brittle. i did it Using a very small flatblade screwdriver in one end and sliding the two halfs away opening it up. With clasp open carefully withdraw the heated seat element out from between the foam to cover,noting wiring goes through frame so leave element with frame - taking care not to stretch it or tear it. Lift the base of the seat center out slightly and in a upward motion unhook the 3 tags on the top part of the frame (above marked red dots) You may have to tweak the tags open to release the cover to frame. using 2 sets of pliers (or cut them if you have new) the 3 steel clips that hold the foam back to the frame.[ marked white] Remove centre pannel There are two r clips holding the headrest in - remove them and remove headrest? The outer part is now a case of unhooking the cover from the seat frame 8 of [marks alligned red] that is held on the inner edge of the fabric to same style tags as previously unhooked opened up. The tilt levers have a surround that pulls out the frame slightly allowing the cover off the seat. ( they can be tight) and if in doubt you can feed the cover around and off the seat without touching the surround Bolster foam will lift off. The seat base center is held to the frame by similar plastic clasps as the seat back. Pictured earlier . You have to unclip them front and rear on the frame. Center pannel will lift off - note the heating element wire will still be attached as element will probably be glued to foam Now i cut the wire about 8" from the foam as im going to put a connector plug here to make future dissasembly easy. The bolsters are held to the frame in same fashion as the top outer cover top and bottom of the frame Base Bolster foams will lift off To seperate the two halves of the seat there are two horse shoe clips to remove but note the motor wiring is linked by base to back frames. Hope this helps guys, i could do a fully in depth how too but for tonight after about 2 hrs of playing about with phone, ipad, computer - patience with computer's is at an all time low lol Paul

Hey Paul Fuse tray clips turned up today. Many thanks. Paul

Pm me your number and i can talk you through it mate Or alternatively i can upload you the pictures Paul

Payment sent

Hey Paul Interested in a pair of fuse tray clips

Id be interested

Hard to tell from the picture, does it hold in place when screwed into the tailgate? if so it may be ok

Thats the boot popper.

well been a while so probbably good time to update: In process of doing work on the rado, having the engine out i found my 263 cams had developed a flaw / mark Got in contact with Bill schimmel and ended up shipping them back to him, very long story cut short - The manufacturing department threw out a warranty claim because i had owned them nearly two years. Even though they had only covered 3k miles due to being off the road having a reshell. Cant thank Bill enough though as he said he would replace them and he was a man of his word.. whilst i had the cams out i decided to rip the head off and double check no damage had been caused with the marked cam. sent head in for refurb / clean up and took the opertunity to fit Arp head studs + Exhaust studs. Repainted the manifolds and cooked them in the oven With new cams again i had to get new tappets and made the mistake of using Europarts in Exeter. I had forgotten how poor their service was: previously i bought ina tappets from them and 8 turned up correct and 4 were non branded.. This time round i got 12 ina tappets, 10 correct and two completely for the wrong car - not even the same size lol. . second visit to Exeter and 1 correct and 1 non branded ****e.. third visit and after a ****ed off phone call from myself they ordered in 4 for me to be able to make sure 1 correct one turned up!!! Putting it back together with stainless bolts where needed. ---------- Post added at 5:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:18 PM ---------- Following buying the coilovers from chazrad - Charlie, i gave them a wipe over with autosol, taking away any of the tarnished marks and making them look like new again. only thing letting them down was the scabby springs so decided to send the springs in for re - powdercoating. All back together now -shelved ready for for fitment later on :-)

Official Nothelle whore Dan :thumbleft:

Just go carefully with the bolts and you should be ok, if it goes tight working it back and forth bit by bit is the way - trick is not to get greedy lol - if it looks doubtful a lick of flame will save you. If it snaps you would need to drill them out and hope to use a stud remover or completely drill through and re tapp the threads. Gt85 oil is a good penetrating oil along with wd40 - good because it doesn't dry out like alot of other brands making you reaply it alot and as a result not soaking in Paul

If it helps i changed most of my engine bolts to stainless a while back. Vr6 Inlet for both : 8x30 cap bolt -17 Dip stick bolt : 6x16 cap bolt -1 Fuel rail to inlet : 6x12 hex head bolt -4 Upper timing cover: 6x65 cap bolt -8 8x30 cap bolt -2 6x10 hex head bolt -5 Lower cover: 6x55 hex head bolt -2 6x16 hex head bolt -16 Coil pack : 6x70 cap bolt -4 Slave cyl : 8x30 hex head bolt -2 ALL require washers for associated bolts I did thermostatt housings and oil filter housing too but unable to find the measurements at present Paul

Sorry emu but the rear is adjustable on the d brackets that mount the axle to the body. From memory there are holes / slots in the underside near to the d brackets where you can spray penetrating oil and work the bolt back and forth to free them up. 4 wheel allignment is whats needed to be accurate. Paul

Hi Kip Vents turned up this morning all safe and sound Thanks. Paul

:-) tiz true lol